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Go Back   Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum > Ford 03-07 6.0L Powerstroke Forums > 6.0L Problems Forum
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2009, 03:57 PM
thorx4md thorx4md is offline
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ground the battery negative to one of the alternator bolts and see if that fixes the problem.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2009, 05:28 PM
turbo4life turbo4life is offline
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I had the same problem with a 6.0l that came into my work about two years ago. I replace two alternator's think I got bad ones, it ended up being the fuzeable links on the driverside bat had fryed.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2009, 03:19 AM
Errick NDA Errick NDA is offline
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What you need to do is check the connector on the back of the alternataor,I have had to replace about dozen or so ! The pins in the connector either back out or loose there inteagerty! Next time this happins wiggle the connector and get someone to watch the light to see if it goes on and off while you wiggle the connector! Sometimes you have to think out side of the box! That is pretty simple system to diagnose!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2009, 10:23 AM
thorx4md thorx4md is offline
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Any luck figuring out the problem?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2009, 09:42 AM
2003PSD 2003PSD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorx4md View Post
Any luck figuring out the problem?
Well, 3 weeks of truck down and $$$ in parts and still have the problem. At least I got all new upgrades. I am taking it to a Ford dealership mechanic that does work on the side at home. Not extremely fast, but hopefully he can figure it out for a fair price. This is just a pain now. I have tried all the above, pulled all grounds and tried re-routing..... I will post the result if this guy can fix it. I have a stock rebuilt alternator that is good if anyone is interested?!?!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 07:10 PM
Fandini Fandini is offline
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 08:23 PM
Bryansg203 Bryansg203 is offline
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OK i can help, you are going to need a multimeter set it to check for voltage place the black lead on the negative battery terminal and the positive lead on the positive battery terminal you must have 12 volts with the vehicle off have someone start the vehicle on for you, now pay attention to the volt meter since it should increase to 14 volts. if it doesn't increase you must then check the battery fuse if broken replace it with a new fuse of the same amperage, if the fuse is in good condition check the drive belts and tensioner make sure belt have no cracks and tensioner is keeping belt tight and in place. if everything appears to be good you must now check your battery terminals, loose the battery terminal nut and remove it from battery post clean both negative, positive terminals and battery post with a Battery Post & Terminal End Brush tool. now before you install the terminals back, cut the positive wire 1 inch from the terminal and strip back half inch of cable sleeve, inspect the wire for any white or green color dust in between twists if battery battery acid is found inside positive battery cable it must be cut back until no sign of battery acid is found. if cutting back is not an option then replace cable with a new cable of the same wire gauge (AWG) put everything back together and recheck voltage with vehicle running and i like to hear your results..
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 09:16 PM
Bryansg203 Bryansg203 is offline
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please in case you don't know this make sure you disconnect the negative battery wire first and positive last. to reconnect positive wire must go first and negative last or you will blow the battery fuse or damage your PCM
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2009, 04:02 AM
2003PSD 2003PSD is offline
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Well, finally found the problem. Both fuseable links between the alternator and the computer were fried. No clue how that happens. $22 bucks and truck is back to normal. Had to use a tracer to find it. Computer was saying everything was running as should.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2009, 03:00 PM
Big Angry Hillbilly Big Angry Hillbilly is offline
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To make this easier on yourself next time, the simplest of checks would have been to check the output voltage at the alternator battery post with the engine running, and then the battery positive voltage at the battery.

Also this same test with the engine off would have shown an issue between B+ on the alternator and B+ at the battery.

Not trying to be an *******, just trying to offer a quick easy test for this issue.
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