Hey guys, I just recently installed an IPR EGR delete and new oil cooler. I'm one of the lucky few that I believe have clogged my new oil cooler because stuff from my chemical flush was apparently still in the system. Before installing the IPR delete, I was able to backflush the oil cooler through a tear drop shaped cover on the top of the cooler. The IPR kit covers that hole. Is there a way, maybe something else down stream to back flush that thing? Super frustrated.....
I wonder if IPR would work with me since I just bought the Gen 2 a couple weeks ago. Maybe give me credit toward the Gen 3. It sounds like I should have went with the new oil cooler, the gen 3, and their inline coolant filter.
Do you guys know, with the Gen 3 and their coolant filter, will it filter ALL coolant before it travels through the oil cooler?
No, the filter will still be after the oil cooler. The only way to filter the coolant before the oil cooler is with either the IPR or the BPD oil cooler relocation kit.
I actually just re-read the Gen3 description.......it only filters the coolant leaving the oil cooler. So I dont think I would even be any better off since the oil cooler is already "filtering" my coolant.......a little too well. Ha ha.
Well, a post cooler filter is better than no filter. The oil cooler does catch a lot of small particulates, but unless the system is really bad, it also will take time for that particulate to build up. If the system is that bad, more flushing is required. The IPR filter will catch much smaller particles and keep them from recirculating back to the cooler to build up. Obviously, pre-cooler filtering is the best, but the post cooler filter will help over time.
Mine must have been god awful then...because it appears to have clogged my new oil cooler almost instantly. I think a lot more flushing is required. I'm not sure how to flush things enough to make an improvement though. I thought I did a very thorough job! I followed the FICMrepair.com article exactly.
One strange thing though is, this morning with cooler weather (around 70*), my ECT stayed where it should be 188-192 and my EOT stayed right around 200-202. This was after a 30 min drive on hwy. Yesterday though, my ECT temps were all over the place, from 188-210 and my EOT got up to 222 at one point. I've yet to tune out my EGR delete, so maybe that is messing with my temps somehow? In another post I had, they hinted that could be the case. I'm in the process of picking my tuning method. Thinking about just sending my ECM to PHP for a bench tune....its only $150 that way.
Mine must have been god awful then...because it appears to have clogged my new oil cooler almost instantly. I think a lot more flushing is required. I'm not sure how to flush things enough to make an improvement though. I thought I did a very thorough job! I followed the FICMrepair.com article exactly.
One strange thing though is, this morning with cooler weather (around 70*), my ECT stayed where it should be 188-192 and my EOT stayed right around 200-202. This was after a 30 min drive on hwy. Yesterday though, my ECT temps were all over the place, from 188-210 and my EOT got up to 222 at one point. I've yet to tune out my EGR delete, so maybe that is messing with my temps somehow? In another post I had, they hinted that could be the case. I'm in the process of picking my tuning method. Thinking about just sending my ECM to PHP for a bench tune....it's only $150 that way.
A 10° delta is still pretty high for a new cooler, but not ridiculous if you still have gunk running around in there. If you used the Restore/Restore+ chemicals, they are bad about breaking a lot of stuff loose so you have to flush very thoroughly after using them. Did you pull the block plugs when you flushed each time? If the block plugs didn't come out, you left a lot of stuff in there.
It's possible that your temp issue could be related to your fan function, but on a cruise at 65mph on flat ground, the fan really shouldn't be what's maintaining your temp anyway. Maybe the impeller is slipping on the water pump? Possibly the fan clutch itself is on its way out?
Nothing wrong with a PHP bench tune, but for another $250 (and not having to pull your ECM) you can have your own SCT X4 tuner to turn off the EGR function and at least benefit from the canned tunes it has.
Yeah, the passenger side needs to come off too. Do yourself a favor and get a Fumoto or EZ-Drain valve to replace the OEM plug and put a length of plastic tubing on it for future drains/flushes. Do this at least for the passenger side since you have to remove the starter to get to the plug. You could leave the OEM plug on the drivers side since it's easy to get to, but the Fumoto makes it much easier. The only downside is that the OEM hole will allow more and larger particulate to flow out than the valve, ,but I just make up for that with more flushes since they are sooo much easier.
The X4 is around $400, so yeah, an additional $250, but you'd be setup for future custom tunes as well. If you don;t think that would ever be an issue, the bench tune would be fine.
Welp.....sounds like I'm basically starting over. I'll remove the plugs and flush the bejeezus out of the thing. At least I wont have to do the chemical flush again as its apparently already all loose and floating around my system. I've seen those Fumoto valves, that's probably the way to go. I'm thinking I'll need to buy the external IPR oil cooler, and see about exchanging my Gen2 EGR delete for the Gen3 from IPR. Hopefully they'll help me out.
This sucks! Fortunately I got a REALLY good deal on the truck.......so I'm not too far in the hole.
If I was in ur boat, I would just buy the relocation. The only thing that does sux, is you can't use that oil cooler you just bought, bc Ipr use a 6.4 oil cooler on there relocation kits.
IF you get the external cooler you will not need the Gen 3 delete. You can simply route the coolant lines to the filter before the oil cooler. Also, if you are going to buy an oil cooler relocation, I'd recommend the Bulletproof Diesel version. I have not ran either one, but the BPD option looks to be a simpler system to install and maintain, retains the OEM oil filter and is not much more than the IPR setup if you use the coupon code vince at checkout. Plus, you then become a member of the BPD fan club. :hehe:
IF you get the external cooler you will not need the Gen 3 delete. You can simply route the coolant lines to the filter before the oil cooler. Also, if you are going to buy an oil cooler relocation, I'd recommend the Bulletproof Diesel version. I have not ran either one, but the BPD option looks to be a simpler system to install and maintain, retains the OEM oil filter and is actually cheaper than the IPR if you use the coupon code vince at checkout.
If you go the Ipr rout you will need the gen 3 bc there nipple coming out of the top to route the coolant line to. Bpd is a more refine kit I've ran both kits. But you can't us the Ipr delete on the bpd kit.
Ahh, I forgot about the IPR delete not working with the BPD kit and I guess you would know better about the Gen 3 delete as well. Sorry for the erroneous information.
I think when Ipr first came out they pulling the coolant from the heater hose, witch is hotter coolant. It still run my Ipr coolant filter on my bpd relocation
Ha ha, ok I'm getting a little confused here. So currently I have the Gen2 delete, a Mishimoto coolant filter, and an OEM Ford oil cooler.
To go the IPR route, I would need to exchange my Gen2 delete and get the Gen3. I would assume there would be a price difference I would need to pay. I would also have to buy the high flow coolant filter as I dont think I could reuse my Mishimoto filter housing.....but maybe I can?
If I go the BP route, I would need to get a completely different EGR delete, correct?
I think since I've already gone down the IPR route, I'm best to stick with them and buy the complete solution through them. Hopefully Vince will have mercy on me. Ha ha!
Hey G8orFord, you mentioned a BP discount code......is the code "vince?" I tried that just to see what my price would be and it said it was invalid.
To go the Ipr route, u need gen 3 delete. The bpd route you will need a j style egr delete, there pertty cheap river city diesel. Just call bpd talk to Andrew about the promo code.
The reason I switch to the bpd relocation bc it use the stock filter, a lot easier to get. The Ipr uses a different filter and u have to buy it from them if u want all the oring to go with it.
If I went the BPD route, I'd need the relocation kit, a J-type EGR delete, and a coolant filter, correct? I mean, I have my Mishimoto coolant filter, but its just a bypass filter, not complete inline.
If you go BPD, you will spend more money, but you will likely save it back down the road with keeping the OEM oil filter. Assuming you still have your original EGR cooler, you could have the ends welded up and just use it for the delete. You would want to fashion some sort of support for the back end though since I'd assume you have replaced the up-pipe with one without a cooler connection. I'm sure you could get a good chunk of your money back on the Gen 2 delete by selling it. As for the filter, you might want to check with @ZMANN. I know he plumbed in a screen filter of some kind and I think it worked for him. Probably a lot cheaper.
The vince code does work, but only on the full kit. Not sure how much longer they'll keep it active though.
Just spoke with Vince at IPR. Great guy! He seemed very genuine and is trying to help me get out of this in as good of shape as possible. Dang it.....I should have called him in the very first place.....
Alright guys, it looks like in the end I'm going to be going with the BPD relocation kit.
There are a couple reasons:
1. Since I just bought my oil cooler, there is a great chance I'll be able to bench flush it and use it in my new BPD kit. That also means that I'll have a brand new spare because the BPD kit comes with a new OEM oil cooler as well. This will prevent me from wasting some of the money I already put in, and give me a spare for down the road should something happen.
2. I like that the BPD kit has an integrated "fail proof" HPOP screen and it retains the OE oil filter housing....which allows me to keep using OEM oil filters instead of proprietary filters.
That said, both IPR and BPD have AMAZING customer service. They both truly seemed to want to help me out as much as possible. I cant say enough good about both of them.
Also, thanks to G8orFord and a HUGE thanks to 323Flint for helping me make a decision that best worked for me. Thanks fellas!
Yeah! Thats super cool if you ask me. Instead of that flimsy little screen, they made something with certainly appears to be VERY robust.
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