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Troubleshooting...

839 views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  cthurston09 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

Been lurking on powerstroke.org for years, finally signed up as I've hit a dead end in my search to diagnose and repair my truck.

Ill start here:

Couple of weeks ago my girlfriend and I are headed up the hill the hike to Three Finger Jack. Steady incline all the way. Truck starts to vibrate pretty bad under acceleration (bucking?) It would get better or worse at times. I've had some slight vibration in the past under low end acceleration temporarily while driving. Mainly from a stop or before the transmission shifts while cruising up hill or at highway speeds. Rarely would happen and nothing like it was a couple of weeks ago. The truck never really stalled but did lose a lot of power. The only way I could keep the truck somewhat steady driving was to stay in TOW/HAUL. When I initially pulled off the highway, the engine sounded rough and had a low, heavy rolling idle. Same kind of idle when you start up on a cold day, but doesn't clear up.


Changed the fuel filters, oil, oil filters, coolant filters (5w-40 mobile 1, wix/motorcraft filters)

Pulled the turbo. Looked great with the exception of a little wear on the unison ring. Cleaned it up and replaced the unison ring.

Cleaned EBP sensor and tube.

Test ran it last night all back together. Symptoms have been mostly "reduced", if you will. Same problems just much more slight but enough to know something is wrong. Truck F****** climbed a very long hill behind my house with the turbo pushing my *** like it was nothing, but I could still feel a minute vibe and of course while idling at the top of the hill. Pretty much shakes the whole truck. Not violent.

FICM is testing 47.5v-48v through the key on, at idle, hot, cold, WOT (with multimeter and scangauge)

Truck never smokes with the exception of during some start-ups it'll blow out a small puff of white/bluish smoke while it fires up.

No CEL or codes showing on the Scangauge

Numbers from my Scangauge II:



Gauge / Idle / Acceleration-WOT


FLP (ficm logic) / 11.5v-12v / 13v-13.5v

FMP (ficm main) / 47.5v-48v / 47.5v-48v

VGT (duty cyc%) / 75-85 / up to 43-44

ICP (Pressure) / 770-780 / up to 3800 Idle for ICP would go down to 640 when warmed.

ICV (ICP volts) / .93v-1.07v / up to 3.9v

IPR (duty cyc%) / 27-31 / up to 76 Idle duty cycle would mellow out to 22-24 warmed.

EBP (PSI) / 17.4-18.8 / up to 47

MFD (mass fuel) / 14-15 / up to 57-65

MAP / 14.6-15 / up to 31-34



Do any of these stats stick out to you? I've bolded the ones that stick out to me based off of what I've read and researched off the web but am looking for someone to help confirm any suspicious gauge readings. What could my potential causes be for any odd readings?

You'll notice I've avoided using the word injector this whole time. After going through these procedures, I'm afraid I might be heading in the direction of a troubled injector. That said I know even a bad alternator can mess with you. Do you think the FICM could be testing/reading good for power but still wonky? Any other sensors I'm missing that I should be looking for? Are there any specific spots on the harnesses I should be looking for wear? Visually they look fine.

Maybe I have a sticking injector?

Not enough Fuel?

EGR is deleted but I checked the valve anyway and ran plugged/unplugged. Clean and no difference.


Injector buzz cycle sounds a little askew when the Key is on, definitely not as good as usual but not crazy.

Batteries died once while in the driveway but I have reason to believe they were on their way out (long story).




2005 F250 lariat CC 6.0L

- EGR delete (welded freeze plugs in cooler)
- Bulletproof oil cooler w/ thermostat
- Blue Spring
- Remote coolant filter
- New batteries
- Alternator less than a year old

This is the short list I can remember. When I did the oil cooler/egr delete I did a slug of other routine maintenance/replaced updated parts that a tech at ford discussed with me. I can't even remember all of it. Especially with all that I read on here to take care of too. HPOP was sitting on my dining room table for a day.


Any help would be much appreciated!!!
If I'm missing anything descriptive, my bad. Long post and I've started to go stir crazy typing on a computer for so long.


-Bill
 
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#2 ·
ICP looks a little high at idle but not much. Check it with the ac off once it's up to operating temp. I've noticed with the ac on it will increase ICP by about 40-50 psi. How many miles on the truck? Any previous injector issues? It's sounding like an injector to me. See if you can get a better code reader that will read manufacture specific codes. If you have a cylinder contribution code, the scangauge will not read it. I know this because I have one on mine due to a bad injector but it will not read it on the scangauge, my SCT does though. Do you have a way of checking fuel pressure? I would start with another code reader then if still no codes try checking your fuel pressure
 
#3 ·
After running today, ICP mellowed out around 580 at a warm idle. 80* plus out side right now EOT is running 195*-196*. I haven't used my A/C since I did the bullet proof cooler... never recharged the sucker. Windows are always down.... The truck has ~140,000 miles. I bought the rig with 58,000 on it in late 2011. At 91,166, I took the truck to Ford when it was runnin like a dog. They diagnosed it and replaced injector #5, the turbo, and EBP sensor/tube. $3,200 later the truck runs fine until one day around 110,000 a chunk of soot clogged my EGR valve and it was overheating a lot. Cleaned the valve and prepared for my EGR/oil cooler deletes and the other mods I mentioned. Truck ran awesome until just a bit ago. Got me through a few good hunting seasons. Pulled my Tiny House, yes Tiny House, from Denver, CO through the Rockies to Portland, OR.

Truck idle is actually seeming okay. Not perfect but near. As soon as I shift into gear, it starts vibrating pretty good. Low heavy idle like a giant old big block or somn, truck shakes pretty good. Feels like it wants to run hard but is dragging a bit. Gets up to speed relatively easy (45-55MPH) but when is shifts to maintain speed(OD?), it vibrates pretty hard at the lower RPMs.

I don't have any means of measuring the fuel pressure, which is something I've suspected. Seems to eat it up just fine. MPGs have definitely fallen off a bit as of late.

Unfortunately (fortunately?), I'm headed to the coast for the 4th weekend tomorrow until Tuesday and wont be able to work on the rig. Not to mention my 4" turbo back straight pipe showed up today. :surprise: GAH!!

While I'm away ill see if I can gather a new scanner, and maybe cap for the fuel bowl with the fitting/gauge to measure it.


I've long since awaited the day that I have to do injectors, figured I would do the ARPs while I'm that deep. Will this be the one? Lord have mercy! Could be the tipping point of keeping this rig long term or not. :crying:
 
#4 ·
Sounds like an injector to me. I would try getting another scanner first and check fuel pressure as well just to further pinpoint it. That's what it's sounding like though. Doing injectors is way easier than head studs though you don't need to go in anywhere near as deep. But that's totally up to you and what your budget will allow
 
#5 ·
Since you mentioned A/C, could I have smoked the sucker? and maybe its bogging the motor? Its never on....

Sub subject: my power steering has been acting up. Every now and then the power seems to die off a lot while driving and wont stay centered. Could be ball joints or U-joints but the way it comes and goes it almost seems electrical. Trying to hold the steering wheel center when its acting up is like balancing a marble on a nail point. Looks like I'm driving loaded I'm sure. Could something electrical in the PS pump be going haywire and affecting the motor?
 
#7 ·
140k is a lot of miles on a set of injectors and it sounds like you're having issues with them for sure. But changing injectors is not really going " too deep ". Valve covers and oil rails removed and you're at the injectors. Head gaskets are a lot more work.
 
#8 ·
Right, I appreciate that. My theory for doing studs at the same time is that while I have most of everything out of the way, I might as well keep going instead of tearing in again later. I was on the fence when I did the cooler delete and HPOP fitting. But that was a weekend before archery season and I had the fever. If I'm looking at injectors, I may be investing in this truck for the long run. ie. studs, head gaskets, bigger injectors, new ficm, so on and so on. I've been dabbling with the idea of selling the F250 and my bronco and investing in a sprinter van for work plus a 7.3l obs for fun.
 
#9 ·
Doing an injector is actually pretty easy. Once you do it once, you can do it again in about an hour. If you're thinking of tackling head gaskets and studs, plan on it being down for a couple weeks. I did mine myself cab on so it saved a bunch of money on labor. I got away with it for about $2000 in parts. That included 2 injectors and an oil cooler. Since you have the BPD oil cooler you won't need anything for that. It's not a difficult job but very time consuming and you really need to read up on it and know what you're getting in to. You're not in the Denver area anymore I take it?
 
#10 ·
Another thing to consider about bigger injectors is you'll need to upgrade your fuel system, and depending how big you go upgraded turbo as well
 
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