Double check your FICM connections. Make sure you hear them click in. start it up and while its idling press the connectors in and see if that changes anything. If you can't get them to click in take a foot long piece of 5/8 heater hose and cut a slit through one side length wise and put it underneath the connectors then bolt the FICM back down. It fills the gap in between the valve cover bolts and connectors but is a soft enough cushion it's not going to damage anything
It's possible. Those pins could be making contact but the connections that go out to the injectors could not be making good contact and are causing it to misfire. Do you have any codes?
if the ipr hung open previously, you'd have a considerable amount of air in the system to purge. if you still have a long crank before it starts, that could be all it is. in which case some driving would clear it up
Reconnected the FICM. Started Lumpy. Took out the EGR valve to inspect and found it built up with a crazy amount of carbon, cleaned it out. Started her up, still lumpy.
Let it idle and gave it gas and it cleared up and now runs 90% normal.
I have noticed though now that the truck starts with a rough idle until warm and on occasion will miss/sputter while driving. I am thinking bad EGR even though I cleaned it?
Once it is warm the truck idles and cladders normal. And only on occasion does it feel as though it will miss. It really only did it while driving 60-70mph, not so much slow speeds.
The truck has 131,000. Only thing weird to me is that it didn't ever do this prior to the no start bad IPR valve.
Funny thing is that I just finished treating two tanks with it. No Codes... Does stiction eventually fix itself or is it an injector slowly giving out? And if so how do I know which one? I have a scan gauge II, but am sure it won't find bad injectors.
Stiction is a buildup of varnish on 6.0 injector spool valves. Once the valve warms up, it quits sticking. It doesn't get better over time only worse. You'll have to get an oil additive like Rev-x or Archoil to clean it up.
Like frostyshadow said, you need the oil additive not the fuel additive. You can pull all the injectors and remove the spool valve and polish the varnish off with some sand paper as well. This has helped many others including myself. You may be able to tell on a contribution test with ids but I'm not sure. If you're going to pull any out and clean the spool valves I would just do them all. Only pets you'll need is the injector seal kits and they're only 4-5 bucks each
Just put archoil in the last two fill ups. Is stiction a condition that will eventually correct itself or is it a sign that the injector is going to die out? Also, I have a scan guage II, what tool is used to see if injector are sticking or going out.
Next step I do will be to do an oil change with the oil additive and go from there.
This Forum has been an extreme help since I bought my truck and started knowing nothing of diesel engines.
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