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Old 06-24-2011, 08:48 AM
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still can't get my back doors open

I had an earlier post on this issue, just hoping maybe someone else has some better ideas. I have a supercab with the suicide doors. A few months ago I went to open 1...and nothing. So I tried the other side, nothing. It seems like it comes free at the top but the buttoms are stuck.

Is there a way to take apart the door panels with the door closed? Wondering if the linkage separated..I rarely used the doors until I had my son, now its kind of a pain in the but carrying him over the center console on a lifted truck..kid is getting big.

Other thoughts might be that the bottom strike plate maybe got corroded. I just don't see how I can clean that up with the doors closed
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:21 AM
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The only way I can see to pull the rear door panels off while the door is closed is to lift up the seats on that side as there's a screw holding the door panel on behind the red door filter in the bottom corner of the door. With that screw out (and I believe one more, been a while) the door panel simply lifts out.

By "It seems like it comes free at the top but the buttoms are stuck" do you mean that you can pull on the handle and the latch will release and the top of the door will pull out but the bottom section of the door won't?

Since you mention suicide doors I'm assuming the stock door handles don't work or they were removed and replaced back into the door on the proper B pill for a suicide door. Does the door have pop-locks installed in it? This is the most common installation I've seen and done in regards to suicide doors which typically have the door handles removed completely or the door handles are left in the door but no longer function due to the relocation of the door latch from the C pillar to the B pillar.

With the utilizion of a pop-lock system both the door opening (the pop-lock) and the door latch plate (the actual locking mechanism) are controlled by a solonoid and motor. There's one motor attached to a rod that goes to the latch plate and a solinoid on the rocker that "kicks" the door open after the latch plate has been opened.

Check your fuses, pull the door panel and make sure the latch rod is hooked up properly, run a voltmeter on the pop-lock and push rod actuator to make sure they aren't bad. My thinking is an inline fuse somewhere since you lost both sides at the same time.

Edit:
Alright I'm an idiot was thinking Crew not extended cab...

You should still be able to remove the door panels from the inside with the doors closed. I believe there is a latch plate in both the top and bottom of the body since the doors essentially act as a B pillar for the front doors to latch to. Once behind the door panel there should be 2 rods coming off of the handle. These either came unattached or the door itself is just sticking.

My old truck got twisted pretty good offroading one time and since then the x-cab doors would always stick to the point that I'd have to hop in the back and literally kick the door open while someone held the handle "open".

Last edited by Acidsniper; 06-24-2011 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:25 AM
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I just meant they're the stock "suicide" doors. Not authentic by anymeans, just the 1/2 doors. No upgrades or relocations to the handles.

Yes, when I pull the handle, the top seems to be free to move, but the bottom of the door won't budge, happening on both sides. I'll check out to see if I can't find the screw you speak of and get it apart. This is something that literally could've happened over the course of years (I rarely ever used my back doors, would've bought a reg cab but the price was right for the 4d) Thanks for the input, see if I can't get these things working again
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:27 AM
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Yeah, see my edit above. I was thinking a suicide doored crew cab not an extended cab which has the stock suicides for the rear seat.
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:48 AM
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that's probably exactly what caused mine too. Before I came in the family way, my truck was always seen at a bog somewhere in the backwoods of North Carolina. I'm thinking I tweaked it somehow. Thanks for the help
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:09 AM
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got the door panel apart, but I really can't see whats going on in there. Seems to have cables for the mechanism, but I can't see in there enough to see how to tighten them. On top of that all 3 sets of my vice grips appear to be MIA so I couldn't try just pulling the cable to see if the door would open.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:12 AM
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Yup no problem. Before I sold the truck I was able to fix the door "sticking" by removing the rear door hinges, slid the door up about an 1/8" as well as the front door (so the door strikes will line back up), this took the drag off the door against the sill plate allowing the door to open and close freely again.

Whether it's tweeked from bogging or just repetitive use you have to remember that unlike a standard truck which has a solid B pillar for the front door to attach to, on an extended cab the front door attaches itself to another door. This, over time, will cause both doors to sag. In a day of millimeter tolerances in vehicle manufacturing just an 1/8" sag can cause a number of problems like your door sticking. A prime example is some old french style doors, you'll notice almost every one of them sagging in the middle due to them weighing each other down.

A simple readjustment of the doors can help fix this as well if that's the case causing your doors to stick.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dxusmc View Post
got the door panel apart, but I really can't see whats going on in there. Seems to have cables for the mechanism, but I can't see in there enough to see how to tighten them. On top of that all 3 sets of my vice grips appear to be MIA so I couldn't try just pulling the cable to see if the door would open.
Ahh forgot they used a cable lock system as opposed to the older rod style lock mechanisms. A good mechanics mirror will help you determine if the lock is still good or not. You may also be able to get under the bottom of the excab door from in front of it after opening the front door, may allow you to unlatch it manually to at least get it open enough to take a good look at it. I can't remember if it's a latch plate or an acutal hole in the door sill that the door "latches" into.

Edit:

You can also try spraying a liberal dose of penetrating oil into the lower latch point and push & pull on the door while holding the handle open to at least get it open.
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