Going fast is fun... how about stopping?

[mdub707]

I know this probably isn't the "right" section, but I got no response in the brakes/wheels/tires section... anyways...

So I've got a 2006 250 extended cab short bed 4x4. I've got 43,000 miles and my front brakes are SHOT. The passenger side caliper is/has been seized so the pads wore out very quickly. It was amazing the Ford dealership said nothing wrong (even though I brought it in several times and told them to check the brakes) then at 37,xxx miles they tell me I will need brakes soon. Thanks guys! haha

*Update* Its metal to metal now, I cant even drive the truck. I had the front right wheel lock up in a parking spot and had to use 4x4 to get out, the pad shot right out of the caliper. I had tried getting the brakes done this past weekend but no parts stores had any of my hardware in stock. Truck is parked until further notice

Anyways, looking to front pads/rotors/calipers. What are my options and what prices am I looking at. I think I may want to upgrade the rotors and pads to something a little better than OEM, but its all cost driven. I cant afford to spend a fortune since I need tires now too. It'd be nice to stop this 8000lb beast a little faster though when I need to. I was looking at Hawk pads and EBC pads, anyone have any input, or places to get this stuff? Any suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys and gals!

Mike

[Ken Lum]

I have an Excursion and it weighs a bit more than a crew cab - almost 9000# with full load of fuel, tools, tow stuff, and full size spare (35X12.5). I installed cross drilled and slotted rotors all around and it stops a bit quicker than stock and without any fade, but being that heavy, there is no way to make it brake like my BMW. My wife tailgates when she drives it and I keep telling her that any problem in front of her is going to be an issue for the person in front. She probably won't get hurt, but the lifted Excursion will just roll over a small vehicle without any problem. The cost for all 4 was about $850 for parts alone.

[mdub707]

Yeah I got a quote for a touch over $600 for calipers, cryo rotors and pads. I'm trying to keep this more coste effective now since I now have to put tires on as well, just got a ticket for bald tires (better than a speeding ticket though). AHHHH! When it rains it pours right? The local napa has everything in stock and I need this stuff ASAP, I think I might have to go there...

Thanks for the reply though.

[Dave]

$600 for Calipers Cryo rotors and pads are about as cheap as you are gonna get for good stuff.

Depending on where you go calipers will run about $325 a pair alone

[mdub707]

Originally Posted by Dave

$600 for Calipers Cryo rotors and pads are about as cheap as you are gonna get for good stuff.

Depending on where you go calipers will run about $325 a pair alone

Yeah I just went and ordered everything from Napa, their premium pads were about $75 for the entire front axle with the hardware (clips to hold them in the calipers) Rotors were $81 a piece and Calipers were about the same ~$80 a piece. It's not the good stuff I had hoped to put on, but it will get me by for now and get me driving the truck again. I ran out of time and options.

[Ken Lum]

I have Cryro rotors on my BMW and the pedal effort is a bit higher and the stopping distance is a bit longer than with original OEM. I believe the prices you have are very reasonable when compared to what I had to pay.

[jonnysteals]

I have a brake question as well. I got out of my truck today and smelled something burning. My passenger side rear wheel was hot to touch. I looked at the emergency brake cable and it was not on. I touched the caliper(dumb) and it burned my damn finger. Not my finger has a line on it from the caliper and Im not the happiest person. I visually inspected the rotor and it looked good and the brake pad looked to have good thickness as well(couldnt get a good look). What could be casuing this issue. Not really to knowledgeable on brakes.

MY BEST GUESSES
1.There is an air in the brake line causing the brake to apply to much pressure
2. The caliper slide pin is messed up not allowing the brake to release all the way
3. Maybe the the pad is worn out causing some metal to metal friction of some sort.

[mdub707]

If its metal to metal you will know, it makes the rotor look like it went through a cheese grater... like mine. I'll post pics tomorrow. Metal to metal will make all sorts of annoying noises. My guess is hung up caliper just like my situation, I remember you saying you lived in a really salty area.... I live in upstate NY, all kinds of salt on the road this time of year. I am vowing now to inspect/clean/grease my pins every year cause I'm sick of changing rotors/calipers/pads on all my FORDS. Come on ford, why aren't other vehicles doing this!

[jonnysteals]

I live on an island at the jerseyShore (OCean City Area). Im withing 100 feet from the salt ocean and the salt air rusts/kills everything. We got slammed with over a foot of snow last week and there is salt everywhere. My rotor looks fine it was the first thin I checked. I jacked up my truck and the wheel spun fine. I dunno whats up with it it. Pad thickness looks good and all. I just drove it to work 35 miles on the parkway(65mph +) and sat in stop and gp traffic and it wasnt hot to touch. I will keep experementing with it. My truck goes in the shop monday so if I can't figure it out Im letting the dealer play with it.

Lets see them pics of yours; Im not to familiar with brakes(never kept vehicles long enough for brakes to becoem a problem). Always willing to learn about something. Thanks

[mdub707]

Originally Posted by jonnysteals

I live on an island at the jerseyShore (OCean City Area). Im withing 100 feet from the salt ocean and the salt air rusts/kills everything. We got slammed with over a foot of snow last week and there is salt everywhere. My rotor looks fine it was the first thin I checked. I jacked up my truck and the wheel spun fine. I dunno whats up with it it. Pad thickness looks good and all. I just drove it to work 35 miles on the parkway(65mph +) and sat in stop and gp traffic and it wasnt hot to touch. I will keep experementing with it. My truck goes in the shop monday so if I can't figure it out Im letting the dealer play with it.

Lets see them pics of yours; Im not to familiar with brakes(never kept vehicles long enough for brakes to becoem a problem). Always willing to learn about something. Thanks

The part that really boils my blood is I knew there was something wrong with it 10K miles ago. I had it into the dealer several times while trying to get rid of the puking coolant problem, and asked them to check the brakes out. The dealer told me they were disassembling them, they were fine, and they were cleaning them up. Right at 37-38K my torque converter broke. I had it in a different shop getting the tranny done. When I picked it up they asked me if I did my own work at all cause I should really look at replacing the brakes soon. GREAT! I told the first dealership I shouldn't have to clean my wheels of brake dust every other day. They would turn disgustingly black after only a day or so. Service manager told me it was normal brake dust. I feel like bringing the bad rotor in there and slamming it on his counter.

This is why I just do everything myself. Its nice having a warranty for some of the complex motor work, but from now on I'm going to try and do everything myself that I can.

I will get pics tonight. One side looks good, the other side is TOAST!