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6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-09-2014, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Been away and now I'm BACK

Hello all, like it says up top.. my trucks been pretty ship shape and I haven't given this place a second thought, I've had other things on my mind

Anyway, I realize I'm on borrowed time with my injectors and my truck and this wonderful site is back on my mind.

So I know I need injectors (stock now at 205,000 VERY HARD USE) but I also need bigger gears (6" lift running 295/76 22.5" = 41"tires) on stock 4:10's.

At the bottom I'll list what I think might be needed to help. But its my everyday driver and I do tow now and then. I have a 26' Airstream and took it up in to upstate NY and with the low gears and big tires my egt's sat around 1,100 (900-1,500) all through the inclines. If I hammer down the egg's drop and then my EOT&ECT go up. I did the math on the gears and 5:13's seem correct but I've never run anything that tall in a street truck so I'm nervous.

I've always had 22.5" tires but ran the 255/75 low pro (maybe 34-35") and had good luck. Truck was pretty quick for basically a stock truck with some stuff bolted on and towed just fine. I used it at a truck pull and did good and used to run a lower 14 in the 1/4. Everything changed when I went up!

Yesterday at the dump with trailer I was 17,200 loaded. !3,000 empty (maybe 2,000+/- for trailer). Truck runs ok here in S.FL cause the roads are flat but if I was running in the MNT's Id have a problem.

My question is:
1) 5:13's do you think they are to big?
2) What size injectors to be able to run around and play hard (burnouts, allittle racing from the light) and still be able to tow average weight.
3)Can I keep my 03 turbo (stock) or do I need to play with that as well?
4)Do I need to reg. return the fuel and upgrade the whole system

04/F350 DWR. I do all the work myself in my front yard and am getting old to climb in and out of the engine bay so I'm sick of working on it. But I love me truck and wouldn't buy a new one.

Studded,EGR bye bye,5",QuickTrick FICM/stock,SCT/GearHeadTunes,03 turbo,bluesprings, NEW HPOP/stock, NEW IPR. 205,000+ very hard milage

Thanks for the help, I was gonna jump on an other post and hi-jack it but thought it be best to start a new thread.

04/350 with some stuff done to it
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-09-2014, 06:02 PM
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You're not going to want anything bigger than 4.88s with dana 60 axles as there isn't sufficient gear tooth contact to handle high loads/horse power.

Nate
2006 F350 (BACKYARDIGAN) - 67mm Turbo, 215/85 injectors, WPE intake manifold, NB/Warren Trans, and more stuff that I don't care to mention....
2006 F250 (LITTLE DURTY) - WPE Manifold, Up-pipes, EGR delete kit, and Tuned By ME
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-10-2014, 05:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thats what I'm talking about... I would have never knew that. Last year when I was looking into what size gears I searched all the online gear calculators and thats what had me come up with the 5:13number.

When I pulled in this TruckWar comp I broke my axel shaft (pass side) and when I was getting a new one I was told the axels in my truck (at least front) where desirable because the drive shaft goes to the top of the pumpkin... I would think that would have more to do with 4x mud stuff but didn't know if that had any difference on the gears.


Last night I switched from GearHeads Unlimited Tow Tune to the SRL+ (I almost always run) and the truck ran MUCH MUCH better. I was thinking that was do to more fuel being available?

I'd love to just swap out the gears and not have to go into the motor.


04/350 with some stuff done to it
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-10-2014, 07:19 AM
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If your injectors are fine I would look into a barder turbo. Also here is a formula for you to help with selecting gears.

RPM = (speed x gear x 226) / tire diameter

So for you currently:

70 (4.10 x .71)336 / 41 = 1670

With 4.88 gears:

70 (4.88 x .71)336 / 41 = 1988 <--Pretty much what a stock F250 would run at

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post #5 of 7 Old 07-10-2014, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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windrunner and scparrish:

Thank you both. I'm gonna order the 4.88's next week. The only brand I know about are the Yukon (is that how its spelled).. is that the correct type to buy?

I think I got a quote for maybe $500 a set for everything except the gear oil. Does that seam about right?

Any idea why the truck is running better with the change in tune? I notice that it ran the worse down low (maybe 35-45mph) and the truck would fall on its face and the front end would bounce with the tow tune. On the hotter tune its cleared up and isn't noticeable.

The gears are going in so maybe I'll just wait and see if the injector problem gets any worse.

Thanks again

04/350 with some stuff done to it
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-10-2014, 11:19 PM
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Thinking of your injectors... Throw a couple of qrts of archoil ar9100 when you change your oil. It's no snake oil members use it all the time to eliminate injector Stiction, clears a lot of misses and not temporarily.

I was thinking 5:29s for gears since it's a common combo but I didn't know about the tooth contact issues.

I know for my 4runner stock tires at 28in and 4:10 gears I'll need

4:88gears for 33in tire
5:29gears for 35in tire

I know a gas 4runner is different but.

-2004 F350 CCLB 4x4: Sinister Race solutions kit, CAT ELC Edge CS, SCT SF3, PHP Ficm programmer, Procomp, Rough country, and Nitto goodies.
-2004 excursion, banks exhaust, 03 turbo, aem intake
-2006 f350 king ranch, aem intake, 10 in fabtech, 40in tires, sct tunes,

currently-1999 F250 SBRB 4X4 First 7.3 and BAREBONE stock

Interested in learning something new?


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post #7 of 7 Old 07-16-2014, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Ive been getting these two codes pretty often:

P-0284 (#8 contribution/balance)
&
P-04something... I'm sorry the paper I wrote it on got wet from working on the rain.

I'm not sure if that code is the throttle position censor but I get that code all the time as well.

I'll check the codes again tomorrow.

Its been maybe 2 months that when the truck is cold it feels like its missing and farts and burps.. once in warms up its much bester if not gone. All I run for over 3years now is T-6 (Rotela) and I swap it out every 5,000. I also use dieselkleen on every fill-up. I keep up on my fuel filter changes too.

I'm afraid it might just be time. I really really have beat on this truck. Before I knew anything about the motor I might have done the most damage with just poor upkeep (this was my first diesel). After I rebuilt the upper end I got on a good maintenance routine but this motor has been bounced off the rev limiter more then I'd like to admit and just plan beat....

Other then this new problem the truck still runs great and as I said before I really don't wanna sell it.

Tomorrow I get the correct codes and post. Thanks all

04/350 with some stuff done to it
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