Cam swap help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

User Tag List

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 Old 06-24-2014, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
Premium Member

 
JGman141's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Cam swap help

Well first off I had an unfortunate thing happen with my motor and I had to pull it out. I have it torn down to a short block at the moment and I bought a cam. Im hoping that with a bigger cam I can spool my turbo quicker and lower egts as well. I'm just looking for any tips or advise that people have that could maybe make this go alittle smoother. Thanks in advance

2004 6.0 ccsb Warren 430/150 hybrids, Warren Comp Trans, Warren Dual Hpop, Billet S475 w/race cover, Marty's A1000 Fuel System, Colt stage 2 and all the other supporting stuff
JGman141 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 06-24-2014, 12:31 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
dashy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
The right way you have to pull the crank but the easy way you take the stuff off the back of the crank. Once you get the rear cover off you have to pull the branch tube out to get the lifters out. On the crank there is what looks like a pulley. It's 2 pieces. Get a 2 or 3 jaw puller and pull the first part off. Then there is 6 or 8 18mm bolts( these are tty bolts so you must get new ones, technically it's not serviceable but they are the same as the front crank pulley bolts). Then you have to use the puller again on that. It takes a lot. I would get a good bit of tension and then tap it with a hammer to loosen it up. When you go to put it back on try to index it the same way it came off. Then the cam has 2 10mm bolts and then slowly pull the cam out.

06 rclb 4x4 xlt str8 pipe and sct with tsd and gearhead tunes, ARPs, egr delete, and 205/85 holders injectors.
dashy is offline  
post #3 of 7 Old 06-24-2014, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
Premium Member

 
JGman141's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 22 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by dashy View Post
The right way you have to pull the crank but the easy way you take the stuff off the back of the crank. Once you get the rear cover off you have to pull the branch tube out to get the lifters out. On the crank there is what looks like a pulley. It's 2 pieces. Get a 2 or 3 jaw puller and pull the first part off. Then there is 6 or 8 18mm bolts( these are tty bolts so you must get new ones, technically it's not serviceable but they are the same as the front crank pulley bolts). Then you have to use the puller again on that. It takes a lot. I would get a good bit of tension and then tap it with a hammer to loosen it up. When you go to put it back on try to index it the same way it came off. Then the cam has 2 10mm bolts and then slowly pull the cam out.
Thanks for the help, I had always heard you can't take the balancer off the crank or it would cause rear main seal issues. Have you had any problems with that at all?

2004 6.0 ccsb Warren 430/150 hybrids, Warren Comp Trans, Warren Dual Hpop, Billet S475 w/race cover, Marty's A1000 Fuel System, Colt stage 2 and all the other supporting stuff
JGman141 is offline  
post #4 of 7 Old 06-24-2014, 05:43 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
dashy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I haven't actually got it back and running yet. Waiting on lifters and low pressure oil pump to show up. I talked to Rykan at holders and that is what he told me he does for all his cam swaps and has never had a problem.

06 rclb 4x4 xlt str8 pipe and sct with tsd and gearhead tunes, ARPs, egr delete, and 205/85 holders injectors.
dashy is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 06-25-2014, 05:24 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 249
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I had a truck in the shop here were someone had removed that flange on the rear of the crank and it had a nasty vibration and oil leak. It was a remanufactured engine. The place that did the work ended up swapping the engine out because of that problem. Local dealer would probably be willing to rent you the alignment tool. I have rented the one we have out a few times to people doing their own work. Seems like a bad idea on a part that the OE says is not servicable.

Diesel Equipment service manager lead technician
jpott62 is offline  
post #6 of 7 Old 06-25-2014, 06:42 PM
Powerstroke Techie

 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Fayette/Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 5,821
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Thanks: 33
Thanked 142 Times in 129 Posts
Garage
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
If you don't want to risk screwing your engine up then do not take the chance and remove that flange.

That flange is machined true after it is bolted to the crank. On a VT365 that there is a rear geartrain there for the power steering/fuel pump. On a powerstroke it centers up the flexplate and provides a sealing surface for the rear main.

-Matt

Ford Senior Master Tech

2015 F-250 XLT 6.7L

2006 F-250 6.0L SOLD
sinner6.0L is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 06-25-2014, 06:59 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 3
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yeah definitely do not remove that balancer. It's heat treated to the crank, and from what I've read even heat treating it back on there the crank will never be balanced properly again, making that crank trash. Just do it right and remove the crank. Also dashy, what bolts are you talking about that are TTY bolts?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
DieselEnthusiast is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome