Makin Ladder Bar- thoughts? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 11 Old 01-04-2009, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Makin Ladder Bar- thoughts?

Ok - Researching the traction / ladder bar biz - Read every thread on here and some great DIY websites. Here's my thought - someone tell me why this little add on won't work...

Since the Stiffness of a traction bar does not allow for the rear springs to compress -thus making the ride stiff, what if a compressed shock absorber was welded into the pipe at the frame end? Seems like the shock shoud be able to withstand the pressure (closed), yet be able to flex long to allow the traction bar to lengthen.... The shock will also allow twist to compensate for uneven flex of the axle ... ...always schemin !

Paul
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Homemade "Sneaky Pipe", ARP Studs, traction bars- Homemade, Pyro, Trans, Boost gauges on the pillar,
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-04-2009, 05:40 PM
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If you make the bars the correct length they will follow the natural movement of the springs, and other than eliminating wheelhop etc., you won't notice they are on there. There are some nice joints on the market that allow plenty of articulation, mine use a threaded rod end(no jam nut) at the frame mount so they can twist as much as they want without stressing the mounts or hindering articulation.

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post #3 of 11 Old 01-04-2009, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Bar should be = to pitch of the driveshaft correct ?


Metro Redneck
2005 6.0 CC SB F250,Tinted,6" Superlift,37" Nitto Graps on Moto 20s, no kitty, no muff, 5" stacks'
Zoodad, Homemade Grill, SCT x3 w/extreme ID tunes
Homemade "Sneaky Pipe", ARP Studs, traction bars- Homemade, Pyro, Trans, Boost gauges on the pillar,
some other stuff
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-04-2009, 07:07 PM
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"If you make the bars the correct length they will follow the natural movement of the springs, and other than eliminating wheelhop etc., you won't notice they are on there."

that looks not too bad. as far as i know the rear axle does not move completely straight up on fords. at least it didn't on my old excursion. it moves in a slight rearward arc as it travels. that is why companies like fabtech have the ones that can travel forwards. i had a set on my excursion, and believe me, you knew they were there. i ended up taking them off it made the ride too harsh for me.

Boggsie05, the only thing i can think of is when the rear axle wants to load up on hard acceleration, it will put high stress on the shocks seals as the shaft pushes against them. know what i mean??? you are on the right track though.
clarence
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-05-2009, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Clarence - I'll overthink this til I am sure what I put on there works

Paul


Metro Redneck
2005 6.0 CC SB F250,Tinted,6" Superlift,37" Nitto Graps on Moto 20s, no kitty, no muff, 5" stacks'
Zoodad, Homemade Grill, SCT x3 w/extreme ID tunes
Homemade "Sneaky Pipe", ARP Studs, traction bars- Homemade, Pyro, Trans, Boost gauges on the pillar,
some other stuff
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-05-2009, 05:20 PM
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Instead of putting movent in the bar, why dont you a shakle on the front of the ladder bar where it mounts to the frame.

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post #7 of 11 Old 01-06-2009, 10:51 AM
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The bars travel in an arc also. That is why the length is so important or yeah they do ride like chit. I cannot tell mine are on it. I am not an engineer, but mine are on the same plane as the driveshaft(1-piece shaft). It would be difficult to size them correctly unless each set is custom built. The manufacturers that sell one size fits all - like Fabtech have to use the shackle or they would not work on many vehicles. Mine were application specific i.e. 4 in. lift supercab shortbed(they are 6 feet+/- long). Check out Farmboy Fabrications bars-all you need, nothing you don't, and they work.

2006 F-250 4x4 ecsb, Elite stage 2's, VGT-SSX.

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post #8 of 11 Old 01-06-2009, 11:01 AM
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I think the shock on the front thing would be a good idea but it would have to be one hell of a shock. The first foot off the frame would be just a shock shaft and a regular automotive shock shaft isnt that strong compared to the forces that would be trying to bend it when the bars are doing their job. Plus, the shock would probably wear quickly in the one spot it moves and start leaking because it wouldnt be pushed and pulled straight in and out, it would go in and out with a lot of stress trying to bend it sideways. Its the same reason why trying to put a grinding wheel on a drill wears the drill out so much faster than using it to drill straight all the time. What could you use in place of a regular shock?

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post #9 of 11 Old 01-06-2009, 07:41 PM
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i just got some traction bars from farmboy fabrications and there awsome. i cant tell there even on at all. and there like 7'11" long for my CCLB

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post #10 of 11 Old 01-06-2009, 07:57 PM
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I think that would put a lot of stress on that joint. I just don't see that working. I think the solution is the floating bars that have a shackle allowing them to move back and forth while keeping the axle from wrapping.

Jason

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