Blown head gaskets even after studs and OEM gaskets - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 52 Old 02-28-2014, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Blown head gaskets even after studs and OEM gaskets

So I have been doing a lot of research lately on our 6.0 head gaskets. I know a lot of guys that have blown their head gaskets even after doing everything right and running ARPs and OEM gaskets. (even some with other studs). I would like to start a thread to keep track of it and see if we can see any trends.

Please do not simply post that your setup is working! This is a thread to find out failure trends.

Sorry I had to get that out of the way. I did not want this to turn into any pissing match about which setup is better and listen to everyone swear that their setup works.

If you have blown your OEM gaskets even after studs then please answer the following questions:

Stud type?
Miles on setup?
Time on setup?
Proper Head Work?
Guestimated HP?
Which Tune?



Also if you can post some pics up of the gaskets after you pulled them.


Thanks for the help

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post #2 of 52 Old 02-28-2014, 07:12 PM
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Blown head gaskets even after studs and OEM gaskets

2008 HG failed with TTY at 125k miles, had shop install ARP with OEM gaskets, didn't have heads sent out to be milled, 20k miles later the OEM gaskets blew again. Second round, had heads milled, .003" on one head, and .006" on other. At the time was running Hyper-tech adjust on the fly programmer. Running 120hp tune. Soon after, trans went in August 2008.

Then August 08, switched to SCT with Vivian's tunes. Truck has been running strong and now has 225k miles. That's 100k miles with SCT tunes from various tune writers. Daily drive with race tunes, tow 5-6 times a year with tow tunes.





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post #3 of 52 Old 03-01-2014, 01:25 AM
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I personally have not blown, but I know a guy had his arps, the old style lube, OEM gaskets, 18mm dowel(2005) all stock with every ford update installed. Ford did the job, lasted 25xxx miles. Blew out 2,3 5,6 on the gasket. I'll try an see if pictures are available. Also, I know you stated not to have a pissing match, but has anyone tried torquing the bolts down more than required? Tightened studs into the block an torqued down to 230ft/lbs? Just an idea

Edit: the failure trend I believe we are seeing is we only have 4 bolts per cylinder
Charlie, how many miles did you see? Who did them? And where they easy or hard miles?

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post #4 of 52 Old 03-01-2014, 05:31 AM
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Jan 2012, blew original hg with tty bolts while towing 6k at 70 mph on interstate and truck had 68k miles on it.
Had arps and oem gaskets installed, was told that the heads were decked and milled but I have no way of confirming this. Also replaced the oil cooler, egr delete, stc, plugs,rails, flush, at the same time as I was hoping this was all that was needed to be reliable and for longevity.
Fast forward to Feb 2014, started puking while towing 14.5k at 70mph while pulling long grades on the interstate, so believe that they are blown again. Truck has 89k miles on it now and 90% of the last 21k have been towing 6-16k. I run the sct 50hp tow tune for 20k of those and looney tune for 1k about a year ago with no towing on the looney. Truck was never on the dyno but I guess the hp on tow tune to be maybe 340+- to the rear wheels.
I'm interested in the info here also cause I'm going to have to do this again and hopefully it's the last time.


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post #5 of 52 Old 03-01-2014, 06:05 AM
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2012 blew the stockers in my 06. Been strong ever since on ARPs and OEMs on various SCT tunes

2012 on my ex bro in laws 06. Blew the stockers running a hypertech max energy. Ford dealer installed OEM gaskets and ARPs under Warranty. Last I heard he blew em again not long ago
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post #6 of 52 Old 03-01-2014, 06:45 AM
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At 50,000 miles the truck was studded at the dealer with owner supplied H11 studs. The whole job was reported at 12.5 hours and no signs of head work so I assume it was a simple "throw new gaskets in under warranty" repair. At 80,000 miles I deleted the EGR cooler and replaced the oil cooler. At 93,000 miles I noticed some subtle signs of an impending gasket failure. There was no obvious whistle or puking, but the pressure was building in the cooling system proportional to engine load up to and above 16psi. This time I did the job in the driveway with a very knowledgeable master ford diesel tech (not trusting dealers or shops anymore) and used a reputable machinist recommended by said master tech. He removed 0.008" on both heads after showing me the "low spot" between cyl 2-4 (which was where the gasket blew) and between 3-5-water jacket which I did not see any eminent gasket failure. The shop also cleaned the threads on the H11 studs and chem-cleaned the intake.

Now I tow with my looney tune and she's held together fine (but I use tow/haul to keep from lugging the engine with a hot tune and water injection to control EGT)


H11 studs
93,000 miles
50K-93K
No head work
stock-400hp
stock/tow/looney
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post #7 of 52 Old 03-01-2014, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Great info so far!!!

Thanks for the help! Keep it coming
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post #8 of 52 Old 03-02-2014, 08:10 PM
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--The stock set blew at 40,000 miles using a small tow tune with VGT brake towing about 6000lbs. No machine work, used ARP's and torqued to 250lbs with the old lube and OEM gaskets. (lasted 20,000)

--The above set blew at 60,000 miles while ripping down the highway. Extreme race tune and 03 Turbo. Heads had a .018" twist in them. Purchased new OEM heads with gaskets. I reused the studs and torqued to 250 with the new lube. (lasted 27,000)

--The above set blew at 87,000 miles but only slightly. I used OEM gaskets and bought new ARP's. I prepped the heads and block with a flat board and 220 grit sand paper but no machining. Judging from the OE heads and others I would think that the heads are warped. I torqued the ARP's to 235 and then drove the truck for 150 easy miles and multiple heat cycles. I disassembled and retorqued the studs. I was able to get movement out of maybe half of them... I know have 106,000 and they are not leaking. I have since upgraded to 190/100's and a 68mm powermax so we'll see. (still holding at 19,000 miles)

Just a little back ground... I initially spent alot of time at the drag strip but that turned to tug a truck and sled pulls. The truck has roughly has 60-90 hooks on it.

Thinking that the re-torque works, I now re-torque all of the ones I do but only let it sit 24 hours. If I do mine again, I will re-torque them much the same way. I have heard of people pumping hot water through the engine to heat cycle it without actually running the motor. (that sounds like a hot setup!)

Here are a couple pictures from the last failure.
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post #9 of 52 Old 03-03-2014, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZIKA View Post
--The stock set blew at 40,000 miles using a small tow tune with VGT brake towing about 6000lbs. No machine work, used ARP's and torqued to 250lbs with the old lube and OEM gaskets. (lasted 20,000)

--The above set blew at 60,000 miles while ripping down the highway. Extreme race tune and 03 Turbo. Heads had a .018" twist in them. Purchased new OEM heads with gaskets. I reused the studs and torqued to 250 with the new lube. (lasted 27,000)

--The above set blew at 87,000 miles but only slightly. I used OEM gaskets and bought new ARP's. I prepped the heads and block with a flat board and 220 grit sand paper but no machining. Judging from the OE heads and others I would think that the heads are warped. I torqued the ARP's to 235 and then drove the truck for 150 easy miles and multiple heat cycles. I disassembled and retorqued the studs. I was able to get movement out of maybe half of them... I know have 106,000 and they are not leaking. I have since upgraded to 190/100's and a 68mm powermax so we'll see. (still holding at 19,000 miles)

Just a little back ground... I initially spent alot of time at the drag strip but that turned to tug a truck and sled pulls. The truck has roughly has 60-90 hooks on it.

Thinking that the re-torque works, I now re-torque all of the ones I do but only let it sit 24 hours. If I do mine again, I will re-torque them much the same way. I have heard of people pumping hot water through the engine to heat cycle it without actually running the motor. (that sounds like a hot setup!)

Here are a couple pictures from the last failure.
I'm surprised that after the first time it blew, you didn't have the heads machined.

I'm also surprised that after the second time they blew, you STILL didn't have the heads machined...

Here is a little advise... HAVE YOUR HEADS MACHINED!!!
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post #10 of 52 Old 03-03-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dfuzz78 View Post
I'm surprised that after the first time it blew, you didn't have the heads machined.

I'm also surprised that after the second time they blew, you STILL didn't have the heads machined...

Here is a little advise... HAVE YOUR HEADS MACHINED!!!
The first time I did them was way back in 08 when I really didnt know that the heads warped that bad. The second time, I bought new heads and just checked them with a straight edge.

The first time I did them, ARP's were almost $800 so that shows how long its been.

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