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Old 01-24-2014, 10:47 AM
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Headstud install cab on

I decided to take on the challenge of doing headstuds and injectors myself. It seems to be going pretty smooth so far I'm in no hurry. The drivers side seems much easier and has more room but I'm hung up on the back bottom bolt. I purchased the snap on tool to get back there to break it loose. When I try to remove it, it hits what I'm calling the firewall. It's seems to be like a hard plastic. Should I cut the fire wall or is there a way to get it out without doing that? the passenger side seems somewhat difficult because of the "box" that's there? Is this the ac stuff? I removed all of the bolts out of it that I can see but it's still on there pretty good is there some that I can't see somewhere? What is the easiest way of removing it? Due to a cracked up pipe I have a black mess under the hood which somewhat makes it difficult.
Thanks, John
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Jdiamond View Post
I decided to take on the challenge of doing headstuds and injectors myself. It seems to be going pretty smooth so far I'm in no hurry. The drivers side seems much easier and has more room but I'm hung up on the back bottom bolt. I purchased the snap on tool to get back there to break it loose. When I try to remove it, it hits what I'm calling the firewall. It's seems to be like a hard plastic. Should I cut the fire wall or is there a way to get it out without doing that? the passenger side seems somewhat difficult because of the "box" that's there? Is this the ac stuff? I removed all of the bolts out of it that I can see but it's still on there pretty good is there some that I can't see somewhere? What is the easiest way of removing it? Due to a cracked up pipe I have a black mess under the hood which somewhat makes it difficult.
Thanks, John
i'll bite.. I have not done headstuds yet, but many people have with cabs on here. The passenger side, you will need to remove the heater box, bolts behind the jockey box I believe. The drivers side you will need to hold the bolt up, just high enough to clear the block... without catching on the block or hitting the firewall. Sometimes a ziptie around the base works.. others have tied it tight with rope or wire and it has worked.. There are a few threads on here I would suggest reading and tons of pictures.. there is also a tool to hang the head at the correct angle to replace it..

EDIT: I read most of this and felt it was pretty thorough She's under the knife, My build thread. Lots' Pics.
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Last edited by 6.0Stroker; 01-24-2014 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:56 AM
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Thanks for the reply. And are you saying I should hold it up and cut it?
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:58 AM
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Thanks for the reply. And are you saying I should hold it up and cut it?
DON'T CUT ANYTHING..... please take the time and review the link I posted.. you will have to do the same thing when you install the arp studs...
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:02 AM
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There is a picture of what I am talking about on pg 14.. but please and im sure others would agree, read the thread.. there is a reason it is a sticky.. I am sure there are other ones as well..
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:06 AM
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Headstud install cab on

I just finished doing headstuds and injectors with my cab on. I left the drivers side head bolt in and zip tied it so about 2 inches of the bolt was showing and then removed the head and bolt together. The passenger side all I did was remove the cover part of the heater box closet to the head, it will give you about 2-3 inches more clearance which was enough to get a torque wrench on all the bottom studs. You can see at the top of the heater box it separates into 2 pieces. I didn't have to use that snap on adapter at all. I did the same thing with the bottom passenger bolts, leaving the bolt about 2 inches out of the head and ziptieing them and pulling the head completely out. With those bolts out you can simply put the heads back on and install the studs. I replaced the head gaskets while I was at it


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:31 PM
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There's an old saying "FUN WOW " . I've been threatening to do it this way for a while ,
but in my case I think I'll be pulling the motor.
I feel that anything but pulling the cab is better as it opens up so many possibilities for
other issues .I had I guy near me do the cab lift and chased some wiring and cab squeak's
for a while after . Just about drove him nuts.
Good luck with your endeavor .
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:35 PM
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There are many people on here that have done this numerous times and all are going to have there own opinion. Mine is leaving the cab on and completely removing the A/C evap box. Its only held in with 5 or 6 bolts but you will have to evac the a/c.
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:56 PM
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DId mine with the cab on and only removed the AC evap half shell. DIdn't pull anything else ac wise. ALso insalled my BPD remote cooler without removing ac lines.
Probably took a little longer than pulling everything but it worked for me.
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:39 AM
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I just finished mine, well almost, can't get it to start (thinking bad starter, it had stopped starting before the tear down). There's several small 8mm screws holding the plastic cover on the evap core, and I think there's two on the bottom that are easiest to get to once you remove the passenger side wheel well liner - this is an absolute must to make the job easier.

A torque adapter makes removing the oem head bolts a lot easier. IIRC the cheapest price is on ebay.

As others have posted, the driver side rear head bolt is fine once you raise it as high as it can go and zip tie it in place, remove it with the head.

I have a thread on here that has some pictures and details of my cab on head stud install. The hardest part is getting the heads back on safely. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the engine.
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