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Old 01-13-2014, 07:35 PM
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Found A Free Intake. Couple Questions.

So I was at my old job today and saw an intake laying under a work bench and decided to make it mine. Not sure what year it is off of but I know that it is off of a van because off the coolant port is on a 45* angle.

I have been looking around on here for intake wisdom and have a general idea how and where to cut it using a cut off wheel and a sawz all for the bolt tubes. I figure I can do all of the porting using rolloc discs and flap wheels.

My questions are as follows...

1. There is no difference in the van intake correct?

2. should I remove the ribs from the inside of the intake as well? I was planning on doing so.

3. I was planning on using a tappered 6mm alan bolt like others have used. what do I use to countersink the bolt holes. do I need to seal them with anything? where did you get the bolts and is there an option on the angle of the taper?

4. Is welding it on a jig necesary due to warping?

5. Are there any pointers, supplies needed, etc that anyone would like to share?... Thank you all.
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  #2  
Old 01-13-2014, 07:53 PM
Making ported intakes

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZIKA View Post
So I was at my old job today and saw an intake laying under a work bench and decided to make it mine. Not sure what year it is off of but I know that it is off of a van because off the coolant port is on a 45* angle.

I have been looking around on here for intake wisdom and have a general idea how and where to cut it using a cut off wheel and a sawz all for the bolt tubes. I figure I can do all of the porting using rolloc discs and flap wheels.

My questions are as follows...

1. There is no difference in the van intake correct?
If running an egr or egr delete the year will matter.

2. should I remove the ribs from the inside of the intake as well? I was planning on doing so.
yes remove all

3. I was planning on using a tappered 6mm alan bolt like others have used. what do I use to countersink the bolt holes. do I need to seal them with anything? where did you get the bolts and is there an option on the angle of the taper?
you will need a countersink and make sure they're all the same depth
4. Is welding it on a jig necesary due to warping?
yes very important otherwise the thing will twist and bow and act funky also make sure you pressure test it
5. Are there any pointers, supplies needed, etc that anyone would like to share?...
a lot of patience and time especially doing it by hand. Thank you all.
You'll get it. Just don't rush it and take your time. And don't try n cut corners
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  #3  
Old 01-13-2014, 08:02 PM
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OD. Thank you for the response. I am running an EGR delete that has been problem free for years so in my eyes there is no need to over complicate it being that I have never done one before. I am assuming that as long as it was from a 04.5 and newer it will be ok. Is there a way to tell the difference? It had a one piece intake horn on it without the throttle plate so i am assuming it will work. Are there any tell tale signs I can look at to determine the year it was off of?

Thanks
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:17 PM
Making ported intakes

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZIKA View Post
OD. Thank you for the response. I am running an EGR delete that has been problem free for years so in my eyes there is no need to over complicate it being that I have never done one before. I am assuming that as long as it was from a 04.5 and newer it will be ok. Is there a way to tell the difference? It had a one piece intake horn on it without the throttle plate so i am assuming it will work. Are there any tell tale signs I can look at to determine the year it was off of?

Thanks
There's a stamping on the driver side with a date of the casting.
Sounds like you have an 05/07 though
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  #5  
Old 01-13-2014, 10:09 PM
Making ported intakes

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZIKA View Post
OD. Thank you for the response. I am running an EGR delete that has been problem free for years so in my eyes there is no need to over complicate it being that I have never done one before. I am assuming that as long as it was from a 04.5 and newer it will be ok. Is there a way to tell the difference? It had a one piece intake horn on it without the throttle plate so i am assuming it will work. Are there any tell tale signs I can look at to determine the year it was off of?

Thanks
No problemo bud, keep us posted on your progress and if you run into and issues, I'd be happy to help you out in any way possible
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:38 AM
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Like Oliver said about welding on a jig, I will be making a jig to have mine welded (and machined ) on. I don't know if Mitch's intake was welded on a jig or not but probably not because Greg had a hell of a time putting it on. After bolting down one side the other side was nowhere near lining up.
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2014, 04:07 AM
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While a jig MOST DEFINITELY helps, it is not the end all be all method for eliminating movement/warping of the manifold. Aluminum is tricky stuff to weld and this cast sh!t that we are stuck working with is even trickier. For the most part, whether you bolt the manifold to a jig or not, expect at least an 1/16-1/8 inch or so of lift up/twist just from welding the runner tops to the manifold. If you go welding on the EGR/throat area, expect the ends of the runners (back end of the manifold) to spring in about an 1/8 inch. This is just the nature of these things.
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:29 PM
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Hey Nate, have you tried heating up or even putting a bead on the outside of the "U", like opposite the EGR stuff, under the intake hole, to try to spread the legs back out?
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:14 AM
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Has anyone welded an intake using a MIG welder with a spoolgun. I have a Millermatic 180 with a Miller spool gun but I havnt messed with it to much. Anyone out there doing this?

Thanks
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  #10  
Old 01-16-2014, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WLDHRSE View Post
Hey Nate, have you tried heating up or even putting a bead on the outside of the "U", like opposite the EGR stuff, under the intake hole, to try to spread the legs back out?
I know heating is required when welding cast iron......not sure its the same with this cast aluminium. Also, just food for thought, when a crane boom is welded the welder makes short passes every so many feet to keep from causing "pull" or warpage on the boom. For example. a four inch pass on one runner then a four inch pass on the other runner. This gives the first runner time to cool and not "pull" so much. As long as you are welding with heli arc you shouldnt have any tie in issues between the starts and stops of the weld.

You guys may be already doing this, im just trying to provide some food for thought. Hope it helps!
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