EGR Block off plate (how to) - Page 6 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #51 of 59 Old 04-18-2011, 01:49 PM
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If it were me I would just do the spool for now. I have seen a couple of my buddies crack the flex joint on the passenger side up-pipe to the turbo by flexing it to get a block off plate to fit inside the joint.

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post #52 of 59 Old 04-18-2011, 05:18 PM
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Will this eliminate the cooler going or a delete is better I'm getting new head gaskets arp head studs new ford oil cooler and new ford egr cooler( not my choice) I wanna make sure my truck won't ***** on me again. I will be running a minor street tune 75-90hp plz help thanks alot
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post #53 of 59 Old 04-18-2011, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by powersmoker1429 View Post
Will this eliminate the cooler going or a delete is better I'm getting new head gaskets arp head studs new ford oil cooler and new ford egr cooler( not my choice) I wanna make sure my truck won't ***** on me again. I will be running a minor street tune 75-90hp plz help thanks alot
The oil cooler failing usually causes the EGR cooler to fail in most cases. And whether you have a EGR cooler that is blocked off or a full delete, it is recommended to have gauges/monitor to check the ECT and EOT delta so you can tell if the oil cooler is getting blocked up in the coolant passages even if you put in a new oil cooler and EGR cooler. You also need to install a coolant filter, and flush the coolant system, then switch to a ELC silicate free coolant.


The oil cooler gets blocked up and prevents the coolant from reaching the EGR cooler. When the EGR cooler is ran dry or with less coolant flow, the very hot exhaust gases (up to 1200*+) expand the thin walled exhaust tubing in the EGR cooler, then when you shut the truck down those exhaust tubes contract. Over time with them exhaust tubes expanding and contracting, will cause them to fail. Also with a lack of coolant flow thru the egr cooler, those hot exhaust gases can cause a flash boil of the coolant and over pressurize the coolant system, causing coolant to puke out the degas cap. Now if you were to block off or weld the ends of the EGR cooler, you prevent the hot exhaust gases from entering the EGR cooler. This will prevent/prolong any issues with the EGR cooler. If you goto Bullet Proof Diesels (BPD) web site and look at there EGR cooler and compare that to the stock EGR cooler, you will see that BPD's EGR cooler is made out of heavier walled and larger OD exhaust tubing.

If you need to be concerned about emissions, the better choice would be the BPD EGR cooler, or use the EGR spool plug that can be removed so you can put in the EGR valve prior to going thru emission testing. But if you do choose the spool plug or weld both ends, you might need a SCT with custom tunes so you don't get the CEL. Also you want to tie the EGR valve off to the side and leave it plugged into the electrical connector.

If you don't have concerns for emission testing, then the full EGR cooler delete is the better option.

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post #54 of 59 Old 04-18-2011, 06:57 PM
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The only reason iam not getting a delete is cause the mechanic doing the repairs already got a brand new stock egr cooler if I run that cat coolant and install a coolant filter could it still fail??
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post #55 of 59 Old 04-18-2011, 07:50 PM
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The only reason iam not getting a delete is cause the mechanic doing the repairs already got a brand new stock egr cooler if I run that cat coolant and install a coolant filter could it still fail??
Loaded question!!, nothing is a guaranty. The coolant flush done with Restore and VC-9 will help remove silicate and iron deposits which will help stop from clogging the oil cooler. Which the flush should be done while the old oil cooler is still on so as not to clog the new oil cooler. Switching to a ELC silicate free coolant prevents the silicate drop out that can cause oil cooler to clog. The coolant filter is a by-pass filtration set-up, which means it filters a small percentage of coolant at a time. So if you have alot of casting sand in the coolant system, it will take some time to filter out the sand which might still get stuck in the oil cooler.

It is recommended to get gauges/monitor to keep an eye on the ECT and EOT, that will tell you if/when the oil cooler is getting blocked. This way you can catch any potential issues from happening that will end up costing you more money in the long run.

Read this and do alot of reading on this site to get an idea what to do and look for with reliability and performance for the 6.0.
Things to consider about owning a 6.0L

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post #56 of 59 Old 04-19-2011, 05:18 AM
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I have an Elite up-pipe and block off plate sitting in the garage if anyone is interested. I did a full delete and no longer have a use for it. Worked great while it was on, did not do a full delete because of failure was just bored.

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post #57 of 59 Old 04-19-2011, 05:31 AM
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If he has a new EGR cooler I agree with using the spool then pulling it to do your emission checks. The spool on EBay has a threaded hole in the top for easy removal , if you have access to "O" rings use ones made of Viton, more durable. The BPD's modded cooler is THE best way to go to stay emission legal and never have to worry about cooler leaks again, well 90% sure anyway, the 100% way is no cooler at all. When you have the spool inserted and your EGR valve just hanging on it's wire the hold down tab will just reach the back bolt hole of the intake elbow, no need to make your truck look like it's held together with wire!!

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post #58 of 59 Old 04-25-2011, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Yes mine was on a 6.0. I ended up buying a full delete kit. Although when HWY441 Diesel was installing it (along with alot of other stuff) AJ did tell me that he did not see signs of anything passing threw the plate (carbon deposits or markings), I think the best Idea is to just get the full kit from sinister or anyone else and do the delete correctly.... When you do this go aheand and trash the Ford Gold coolant and add a coolant filter kit.

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post #59 of 59 Old 12-24-2013, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilpooh View Post
The oil cooler failing usually causes the EGR cooler to fail in most cases. And whether you have a EGR cooler that is blocked off or a full delete, it is recommended to have gauges/monitor to check the ECT and EOT delta so you can tell if the oil cooler is getting blocked up in the coolant passages even if you put in a new oil cooler and EGR cooler. You also need to install a coolant filter, and flush the coolant system, then switch to a ELC silicate free coolant.


The oil cooler gets blocked up and prevents the coolant from reaching the EGR cooler. When the EGR cooler is ran dry or with less coolant flow, the very hot exhaust gases (up to 1200*+) expand the thin walled exhaust tubing in the EGR cooler, then when you shut the truck down those exhaust tubes contract. Over time with them exhaust tubes expanding and contracting, will cause them to fail. Also with a lack of coolant flow thru the egr cooler, those hot exhaust gases can cause a flash boil of the coolant and over pressurize the coolant system, causing coolant to puke out the degas cap. Now if you were to block off or weld the ends of the EGR cooler, you prevent the hot exhaust gases from entering the EGR cooler. This will prevent/prolong any issues with the EGR cooler. If you goto Bullet Proof Diesels (BPD) web site and look at there EGR cooler and compare that to the stock EGR cooler, you will see that BPD's EGR cooler is made out of heavier walled and larger OD exhaust tubing.

If you need to be concerned about emissions, the better choice would be the BPD EGR cooler, or use the EGR spool plug that can be removed so you can put in the EGR valve prior to going thru emission testing. But if you do choose the spool plug or weld both ends, you might need a SCT with custom tunes so you don't get the CEL. Also you want to tie the EGR valve off to the side and leave it plugged into the electrical connector.

If you don't have concerns for emission testing, then the full EGR cooler delete is the better option.


Great info!! I am thinking of doing just the plug so that it can be removed for emissions in cali if i am forced to comply, i feel pretty good that with the plug i wont have cooler failure after reading this.. Im rolling a 6.4 is the oil cooler something i need to address as well?
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