Sneaky pipe install question - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-15-2008, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Sneaky pipe install question

Now that my EGR cooler is replaced. I'll be doing a sneaky EGR delete as soon as I can get to it. I assume from reading posts that this can be performed in a Saturday afternoon without pulling the cab and that I can reach everything through the passenger wheel well. I installed my Monster exhaust by myself and used to rebuild motorcycle engines so I'm mechanical enough but not that familiar with working on things that I can't reach or see.

If others have done this sneaky pipe replacement themselves I'd appreciate feedback on what tools I'll need (i.e. do I need any extensions or funky flex-heads etc. Does anyone know off-hand or where I can find the bolt/nut sizes invovled and the torque specifications for the components involved in replacing the up-pipe. I've read many posts about this but I haven't found an actual step by step set of instructions for doing it on later model F250's like the 2005-2007.

Thanks, this is a great forum for information on these potentially great trucks.

2005 F250 XLT crew cab used for camper towing, kid hauling and commuting:

Banks Monster Exhaust, Banks Ram Air Intake, SCT with tunes from Innovative Diesel, Zoodad mod, High Idle Mod, Reverse light floods, ARE Shell, HAM Radio Antennas (80m-10m screwdriver, 2m, 440, 6m whip)

First 25k was run on Biodiesel but it's too much trouble so I'm dino-diesel only now > 50k
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post #2 of 6 Old 08-15-2008, 07:14 AM
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I used a few extensions to get to the upper bolts on the up-pipe. If you got someone that can help (skinny, long arms are a plus) this will help. I removed the downpipe, passenger wheel, and passenger wheel well liner for better access. I got the manual at home so I can look up the TQ values for you, but I just snugged it all using German torque values. I want to say the sizes are like 10mm? Start early in the day and be patient.

Where in NC are you located?


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post #3 of 6 Old 08-15-2008, 07:48 AM
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Did you ever figure what you were gonna do for the cat delete?

Jason

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post #4 of 6 Old 08-15-2008, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Did you ever figure what you were gonna do for the cat delete?
Yeah I'm gonna try the spare cat on a diet and if things get weird I'll put a pipe through the spare kitty.

2005 F250 XLT crew cab used for camper towing, kid hauling and commuting:

Banks Monster Exhaust, Banks Ram Air Intake, SCT with tunes from Innovative Diesel, Zoodad mod, High Idle Mod, Reverse light floods, ARE Shell, HAM Radio Antennas (80m-10m screwdriver, 2m, 440, 6m whip)

First 25k was run on Biodiesel but it's too much trouble so I'm dino-diesel only now > 50k
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-15-2008, 08:49 AM
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Oh. Good idea!

Jason

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post #6 of 6 Old 08-15-2008, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyAssault View Post
I used a few extensions to get to the upper bolts on the up-pipe. If you got someone that can help (skinny, long arms are a plus) this will help. I removed the downpipe, passenger wheel, and passenger wheel well liner for better access. I got the manual at home so I can look up the TQ values for you, but I just snugged it all using German torque values. I want to say the sizes are like 10mm? Start early in the day and be patient.

Where in NC are you located?
Thanks for the info. I was hoping I could just loosen the downpipe rather than remove it because I have to get the truck pretty far off the ground to get the downpipe out and I'd hoped to do this job with just a jack stand which doesn't raise it much. Working in the engine bay with a step ladder is a pain.

Located in Wake county NC.

2005 F250 XLT crew cab used for camper towing, kid hauling and commuting:

Banks Monster Exhaust, Banks Ram Air Intake, SCT with tunes from Innovative Diesel, Zoodad mod, High Idle Mod, Reverse light floods, ARE Shell, HAM Radio Antennas (80m-10m screwdriver, 2m, 440, 6m whip)

First 25k was run on Biodiesel but it's too much trouble so I'm dino-diesel only now > 50k
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