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6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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Old 10-25-2013, 10:00 PM
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Red face Need some advice....

Hello all. I'm new to the forum and to owning my 2003 6.0. I'm not exactly sure if this is the correct thread to put this in but, I need some advice. I recently bought my 6.0 and one of my best friends (who has owned his 7.3 for years) instantly told me that I would have to buy an EGR delete kit. I've been trying to do research into this on my own but, I'm a Harley mechanic. Not a Diesel mechanic. I just don't know enough about these beasts to be comfortable making a decision on this with info that I've tried to interperet myself.
My question is, should I really get the EGR delete or just buy something like the "Bulletproof" EGR cooler? I've seen many discussions on this topic but, I can't make heads or tails of it. Would someone be willing to break this down "Barney style" for me and explain what would be better for me? I really appreciate any and all help. Thanks!
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Old 10-25-2013, 11:20 PM
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If your area is a emissions area then I suggest doing the bullet proof kit, if you don't care about emissions then I say get an egr delete
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:27 AM
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I would buy any type of monitor first and see how the FICM volts are. And I'd see how the oil cooler is holding up to the crap ford gold coolant.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley_F250 View Post
Hello all. I'm new to the forum and to owning my 2003 6.0. I'm not exactly sure if this is the correct thread to put this in but, I need some advice. I recently bought my 6.0 and one of my best friends (who has owned his 7.3 for years) instantly told me that I would have to buy an EGR delete kit. I've been trying to do research into this on my own but, I'm a Harley mechanic. Not a Diesel mechanic. I just don't know enough about these beasts to be comfortable making a decision on this with info that I've tried to interperet myself.
My question is, should I really get the EGR delete or just buy something like the "Bulletproof" EGR cooler? I've seen many discussions on this topic but, I can't make heads or tails of it. Would someone be willing to break this down "Barney style" for me and explain what would be better for me? I really appreciate any and all help. Thanks!
Lol ok, here's the Barney style breakdown with some technical aspects on how/why things fail. Part of the 6.0 coolant path routes engine coolant through the oil cooler, then to the EGR cooler, through the intake, then back through the front cover. For emissions purposes, some exhaust is routed from the passenger side up-pipe, cooled as it travels through the cooler, then passes into your intake through the EGR valve.

Inside the cooler things happen a couple different ways. First off, if the oil cooler clogs due to the silicate coolant that Ford used or casting sand that may have been left in the coolant ports when your engine was made, coolant flow to and through the EGR cooler is dramatically reduced, and without the coolant it heats up beyond what it was designed for (this accounts for probably 60% of EGR cooler failures). Secondly, exhaust deposits can build up from lots of idle time or low fuel quality, making the exhaust path smaller/potentially clogging the pathways.

Now, quick detour....since yours is an '03 model, they typically have less failure rates they use a round EGR cooler, so there's no corners for the soot to buildup and clog the path.

So, as the exhaust path gets smaller, it takes more force/energy for the exhaust to push through it, creating more heat (or the coolant flow is reduced from a bad oil cooler, allowing more heat to build). The OEM brazed joints on the inside of the EGR cooler were not made to take this heat and they start to crack. Once they crack, coolant can enter the exhaust path, which at that point is headed straight to your intake. Coolant in your intake, into your cylinders (which ups your cylinder pressure) and now your heads just lifted.......Basically that's the long and short of it.

SO. We all know that with the EPA/big brother, any removal of OEM emissions equipment is illegal/immoral....blah blah blah. If you have to pass an emissions test to get your truck registered, then go with the BPD cooler. They use welded joints instead of brazed and won't crack under the higher temps should they ever occur. If you don't have to pass emissions and don't want to have to worry about this cascading failure that might happen, then get a delete kit.

Hope this helps to make a decision. BPD makes an awesome line of products and I doubt you'd ever have a problem with it if you went that way, but delete kits are cheaper...there's just that whole legal issue.

Either way!!!!!!!!!!!
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