ford 6.0 headstuds DIY at home - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 114 Old 10-17-2013, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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Talking ford 6.0 headstuds DIY at home

So I'm new to the forum, but i have used this site multiple times. I'm going to try an give you the little secret to making the DIY head studs the easy as possible upgrade possible(cause that's possible)... go to the dealer ship an pay the $5k, the secrets out hahahaha

On another note, what people never told me or what I found out on my own through doing this is have a friend! The heads aren't light! First thing first. Make sure its clean, there are so many little holes for debris to fall in. Second, make sure you have a 5.5, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19mm sockets(deep & shallow) 6 point and wrenches. T45 t30 t27 torx wrenches on sockets. 1/4 an 3/8 drive, with 3, 6, 8" extensions. Screw drivers(flathead) help for prying some small things. Sledge hammer! Knife, breaker bar, did I mention friend? Needle nose pliers, vice grips an when into out in the morning I'll update the tools list.

I started by draining my ac lines cause im redoing it anyway. Then I seperated the ac box but before I could finish that in had to pull the inner fender to get to the lower bolt/screws holding it together. Pull it out an set it off to the side with ac core attached. FORGOT TO.MENTION! Undo battery's an remove first. With the inner fenders removed you can work around the motor so much easier. I then drained coolant an pulled the block heater on driver side right under exhaust manifold towards the rear of the block. CAUTION! It will flow like Niagara falls so be ready with a big oil pan. Then drain the oil, after the fluids are out pull your intake system, then take off your intercooler pipes. You can unbolt your intake elbow now followed by your radiator hoses, there will be 2 hard lines going in the bottom of the radiator with quite a bit of power steering fluid. Once that is drained you can pull your radiator shroud followed by the radiator. Remove the degas bottle(overflow tank) now. Next remove the alternator, then remove the ficm and the glow plug relay, start unplugging the wiring harness and undoing the fuel lines from the fuel filter. Take the egr off with those 2 bolts an throw it as far as possible(if you plan on deleting it, if not I'm sorry and try to bare with me) and now the turbo feed line can be removed. Unbolt the turbo from the downpipe an the y pipe collecter(these v band clamps will most likely be frozen on there an need some persuasion). Now all that's left its 3 bolts holding g it to the pedestal, the 2 front ones are easy, but the tricky one is behind the turbo straight down by the downpipe an y pipe. Once those are removed finagle the turbo out an unplug the turbo drain. Now your turbo is gone, you can. Put your wiring harness off to a side an the whole fuel injector wire harness umplugs entirely. Fuel lines undone from the fuel filter. Now you can unbolt the v band to the egr cooler an the coolant reroute for the egr cooler. Also the 2 bolts holding the egr cooler to the manifold. Now you can unbolt the whole oil cooler cover/fuel filter bowl/oil cooler as one(be careful as its going to want to dump a quart into the valley an fill the oil cooler reservoir area up. Clean all that oil out. Leave the old screen in the oil cooler valley. Now you can unbolt all the intake manifold runner bolts an remove the intake manifold. Remove the valve covers to start, an then you remove the oil feed rail system with the several t27 bolts(CAUTION! More oil is about to pour out once you start removing the oil feed rail, and the stand pipe might get hung up, slow an steady is the best way to seperate them). Now you can start undoing the head bolts In the same order as you install your studs. But only unthread them all about 1 thread to avoid warpage, once they feel looser than 150ft/lbs you can undo them all by hand pretty much. Then remove the valve train bolts an remove the lifter bracket with lifter attached an pull the valve spring(little rocker thing) out too for all cylinders. The lower beadbolt won't come out yet(later I'll tell you how) now unbolt the exhaust manifolds from the beads so your heads are completely free. You can remove Injectors, its your choice. But I would EXTREMELY ADVISE! Pulling them out. Now take that last head bolt an pull it out about a 1/4" from where it would start threading in, an zip tie it In place, now your head is free an clear to pull, don't forget the five 8mm bolts by the intake ports!!! Head should now come off. If I forgot any step in pulling the heads off please tell me. Let it be known the fan an water pump front cover/housing is still all attached but it would probably my be easier removing that stuff. I know there a couple hoses here a. There but I figured if your reading an doing this yourself you have a good idea of what. Needs to be done. Also its 2 a.m. I'm tired an on my phone doing this. Plus I'm on my phone texting this. I'll be on tomorrow to add more an throw up all the pictures cause I had planned on doing one of these to help my fellow 6.0'rs

Also if anyone knows of a great ported intake manifold any suggestions are appreciated! I can't get ahold of gogo diesel or absolute or soot powered! Crazy huh? You would think they would have a reliable contact number(not trying to bash on them but would love for them to answer or call back so I can order one).

I took off my front wheels to make the truck a lot lower, that helped a lot!

I have a regulated return, powermax, bd boots, cfm intake elbow, studs, 175cc injectors an a fass 125gph pump.updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, etc. I'm reaching 550hp/1000tq! I don't care what people say hahaha! Power is everything! Lol. An reliability of course. I would love a ported intake *hint* *hint*
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post #2 of 114 Old 10-17-2013, 03:25 AM
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Any pics of the head stud job? (we love pictures )

How'd you determine 550/1000? Did you put your truck on a dyno or run it at a track?

Lastly, you should google some of the companies you're trying to get a ported intake from. I haven't heard soot powered in months.

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Last edited by Snake; 10-17-2013 at 03:29 AM.
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post #3 of 114 Old 10-17-2013, 05:55 AM
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I messaged someone at holderdown who once carried sootpowered and was advised to stay far away from anything sootpowered. They carry intakes so maybe give them a shout.


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06' F250 CC SR SB FX4 AT

Studs,S&B CAI, MRBP 4" exhaust 3.5" down pipe, SCT LIVEWIRE TS, Tuned by Eric (xtreme street and race), Innovative Inductive and Performance FICM Tunes, blue spring upgrade, 2.5" Carli Leveling kit, 18x9 BMF Novakane Death Metal with 35x12.50 Toyo MT's 3:73 gears.
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post #4 of 114 Old 10-17-2013, 06:32 AM
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What tuning, nozzles, compressors wheel and track did you run to get 550/1000??

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post #5 of 114 Old 10-17-2013, 06:41 AM
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I'm not knocking anything that Holderdown or Holder's Diesel does, but I can assure you that there is no better performing intake manifold option out there for the price I sell mine for. I would be MORE than happy to put mine up against anything out there.

Nate
2006 F350 (BACKYARDIGAN) - 67mm Turbo, 215/85 injectors, WPE intake manifold, NB/Warren Trans, and more stuff that I don't care to mention....
2006 F250 (LITTLE DURTY) - WPE Manifold, Up-pipes, EGR delete kit, and Tuned By ME
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post #6 of 114 Old 10-17-2013, 08:09 AM
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sounds good, just forgot: remove banjos, ground on passenger head, heat shield on drivers side (I forgot the hard way to take them off)


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post #7 of 114 Old 10-17-2013, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake View Post
Any pics of the head stud job? (we love pictures )



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It's Toren. .. don't question it ..
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post #8 of 114 Old 11-30-2013, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Typical mods and performance parts
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post #9 of 114 Old 11-30-2013, 09:06 PM
Making ported intakes

 
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Looks like milk

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6.0/6.4 Ported intake manifolds, turbos, air intakes, fuel systems and much much more!!!!

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post #10 of 114 Old 11-30-2013, 09:07 PM
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