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  #1  
Old 10-13-2013, 07:45 PM
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Cooling system upgrades/maintenance

Cooling system -

Recommended:

Cooling system flush with Restore and Restore+ and distilled water
Refill cooling system with Final Charge ELC and distilled water (50/50 mix)
DFuser coolant filter kit
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap
Motorcraft thermostat assembly
Fumoto block drain valves
Motorcraft block drain plug o-rings for Fumoto drain valves
IPR Research Gen 2 EGR delete kit
Motorcraft updated oil cooler
ARP head studs
Motorcraft headgaskets

Optional:
Install aftermarket EGR cooler (many different companies)
Install stealth EGR delete (Motorcraft)
BPD billet aluminum water pump
BPD billet aluminum radiator
IPR coolant filtration setup (100% filtration, not bypass)

I chose CLR over VC-9 or Restore or Restore+ simply because it's more readily available, cheaper, and I keep bottles of it at home for different uses (plumbing stuff, clearing clogged heater cores, etc.). I chose Final Charge ELC because it's stocked at O'Reilly Auto Parts and is readily available as well. The DFuser coolant kit was my choice out of all the units out there due to price, including 3 filters, and being easily rebuildable if needed. Some of you may have the updated de-gas bottle and cap. Easy way to tell is if your bottle has a sticker for the levels instead of the markings on the plastic and if your cap has the white sticker compared to being all black. Thermostat is replaced during a flush as it has to be removed anyways. The Fumotos are super handy, but you may have issues with the block drains stripping out and you will need to use o-rings instead of the flat washers they come with. I chose to delete the EGR because we have no emissions testing, plus I like the idea of not needing to worry about the cooler and I chose the IPR setup because it has a one-piece setup instead of the two-piece setup and has no welds to leak and deletes the blue silicone hose. For those of you that have emissions testing you can get an aftermarket EGR cooler that functions better than the factory unit. For those people who have emissions testing that is visual only you can simply weld the ends on your factory cooler and reinstall it for a stealth delete. We all know about the updated oil cooler, ARP head studs, and using OEM headgaskets, no need to go into that. It's been shown that the OEM headgaskets don't have issues if installed correctly whereas the aftermarket options have been having issues even with correct installation.

As far as the optional things - they are not things you should tear apart the engine just to install. More-so they are upgraded parts to replace parts that may eventually fail. The water pump and radiator are not known common failure items whereas everything else I listed is. The 05 and up had an updated water pump and they very rarely fail. If you do need to replace a water pump or radiator though these would be great items to install. I myself do not like the 100% filtration setup, but some do, so it's up to you if you want to do a by-pass filtration or inline.

Here's what my list currently looks like:

Perform cooling system pressure test, flush using CLR calcium, lime, and rust remover, and fill using FINAL CHARGE Global Extended Life coolant/antifreeze and Great Value distilled water (50/50) (86,264)
DFuser coolant filter kit (includes hoses, fittings, filters, clamps, hardware, and filter mount) (86,264)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle (87,014)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap (includes seal) (87,014)
Motorcraft thermostat assembly (includes seal and housing) (86,264)
IPR GEN2 EGR cooler delete kit (includes bypass manifold, up pipe, and gaskets) (89,717)

Just curious on your guys' thoughts here.
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  #2  
Old 10-15-2013, 12:40 AM
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First off very good strategy this is the only advice i could offer if any..


use vc-9 iron remover and then flush with the restore plus. don't bother with CLR....


-do multiple water flushes between the vc-9 for rust and the restore plus for the gel left behind by ford gold.

- after removing all the chemicals be sure to run around with water only for a couple of days if weather permits because it will take a couple of days for some the stuff to get loosened up enough after the initial chemical flush

- remove the radiator and flush it indivudually. more stuff comes out then when you just drain it and stick a hose in it.

overall great write up man.
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:28 AM
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Chemical flushes can be avoided based upon the current engine condition. If someone has a motor with a good EOT/ECT delta then chemicals will only cause more problems. Should one be committing to installing studs than a full chemical flush would be a great idea.
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:43 AM
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I disagree with your coolant filtration choice. The IPR coolant filter is much more efficient and you never have to buy filters. It pretty much makes all the others obsolete. I agree with the Restore and Restore Plus over CLR. You can do all of those flushes with tap water and you have to flush the living crap out of it. That's where most people that have problems screw up. They get tired of flushing and quit too soon. Once everything is flushed really well then flush it another 6 times minimum with distilled water. 24 gallons is the min amount you should flush through, then drain and fill with 3.5 gallons of concentrated coolant and top off with distilled.
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
First off very good strategy this is the only advice i could offer if any..


use vc-9 iron remover and then flush with the restore plus. don't bother with CLR....


-do multiple water flushes between the vc-9 for rust and the restore plus for the gel left behind by ford gold.

- after removing all the chemicals be sure to run around with water only for a couple of days if weather permits because it will take a couple of days for some the stuff to get loosened up enough after the initial chemical flush

- remove the radiator and flush it indivudually. more stuff comes out then when you just drain it and stick a hose in it.

overall great write up man.
Thank you. Yes, I know you can get much more involved in the flush description but I figured I'd leave that up to the user to decide how involved they wanted to be. I flushed with tap water for a while, then put in the CLR for about 1.5 hours, then flushed with distilled water for another 1.5 hours. On top of this the truck had fresh coolant put in it before I got it. Also, it got water flushed again during the head stud install. I definitely made sure it was super clean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyAssault View Post
Chemical flushes can be avoided based upon the current engine condition. If someone has a motor with a good EOT/ECT delta then chemicals will only cause more problems. Should one be committing to installing studs than a full chemical flush would be a great idea.
I'll agree that if your delta is good you don't need a chemical flush and a good water flush and switch to ELC is plenty. I myself was running about a 15 degree delta and was getting ready to stud it so I sacrificed the oil cooler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PGreenSVT View Post
I disagree with your coolant filtration choice. The IPR coolant filter is much more efficient and you never have to buy filters. It pretty much makes all the others obsolete. I agree with the Restore and Restore Plus over CLR. You can do all of those flushes with tap water and you have to flush the living crap out of it. That's where most people that have problems screw up. They get tired of flushing and quit too soon. Once everything is flushed really well then flush it another 6 times minimum with distilled water. 24 gallons is the min amount you should flush through, then drain and fill with 3.5 gallons of concentrated coolant and top off with distilled.
Trust me, this thing was flushed for at least a combined 5 hours and it was already clean to start with. I've just had awesome results using CLR to clean cooling systems so I decided to use it here as well. Trying to get ahold of those flush chemicals sucks without having to order them online. In no way, shape, or form does the IPR coolant filtration setup make the others obsolete. The filter location sucks, it just pukes coolant all over the passenger side of the engine bay when you need to change it. Also, I am fine with a replaceable filter and prefer it. If the IPR filter plugs then you'll have no heat, don't have that problem with the other bypass setups.
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:49 PM
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Anyone here running the BPD radiator or water pump? Just curious on their quality and if they're worth the money. My truck had a new radiator put in it at some point so I don't see it going bad anytime soon but if it does I'd like to know my best option for replacement. Also, I've got the 05+ water pump that's upgraded and don't forsee issues with it either, but want to know of the BPD one is worth it as well.
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:56 PM
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I know everyone loves bulletproof and i think they're one the best 6.0 specific companys out there, but if your radiator and water pump are good...

don't fix it, if it ain't broke my opinion...
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinOOO9 View Post
I know everyone loves bulletproof and i think they're one the best 6.0 specific companys out there, but if your radiator and water pump are good...

don't fix it, if it ain't broke my opinion...
Oh of course, I don't plan on replacing them while they're still good as there's no performance benefit of it and they're not known failure components. I'm just thinking in the back of my mind if either of those things does fail then I know my best option for replacement. There's been quite a few guys with hundreds of thousands of miles on their 05+ water pumps and radiators without a failure, so I'm not planning on them going bad any time soon.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:41 PM
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I'm selling my IPR highflow coolant filter if you're interested. 3/4" lines and a ss mesh cleanale filter
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrOneEyedBoh View Post
I'm selling my IPR highflow coolant filter if you're interested. 3/4" lines and a ss mesh cleanale filter
I'm honestly not a huge fan of that setup. It filters well, but I don't like the filter location and I'm a bigger fan of just changing the filter once a year and throwing it away.
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