Exhaust system upgrade - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 13 Old 10-10-2013, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust system upgrade

Exhaust system -

Here's what I've got:

IPR passenger side up pipe (89,717)
Motorcraft passenger side up-pipe bolts (89,717)
MBRP 4 aluminized steel single side off-road no muffler exhaust system (includes piping, hangers, and clamps) (89,717)
MBRP 4 to 6 12 long dual walled polished exhaust tip (includes clamp and pipe) (89,717)
Gauge to monitor exhaust gas temperature (I'm using Glowshift presently)

I went with the 4" exhaust mostly due to price as there's really no performance gain from the 5" exhaust. Most people get the 5" setup just for sound really as it provides a deeper tone than the 4", but it's also about double the price. There's tons of ways to do the exhaust - side exit, stacks, single rear exit, dual rear exit - it's all just preference. The main thing performance wise is just removing the cat and muffler and having the 4" downpipe. I simply chose MBRP for their pricing and excellent product. There's many other companies out there to go through, just do your research first. You can also get it in different grades of metal and finishes, once again it's preference. The up-pipe will most likely come with your EGR delete, so whatever company you choose will dictate that. I like IPR's up-pipe because of the 1" flange and the weld quality and I went with their GEN 2 EGR delete as well. There's many different companies who supply pyrometer gauges to measure exhaust gas temp but the recommended install location has always been the driver's side manifold right before the up-pipe section. You can do digital or analog gauges for it or you can get a temperature probe for whatever monitor you're using. I myself just prefer the analog needle sweep and went with Glowshift setup.


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post #2 of 13 Old 10-11-2013, 06:51 AM
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......

2005 F-250 4X4
Harley Davidson Edition #00902
Leveled, Sinister Egr Delete, Studded, Sinister Coolant Filter, Rotella EC1 Coolant, 58v FICM, 6.4 Banjos, Blue Spring, SCT Tuned by Innovative, TSD
and the Wildman, Edge CTS W/ EGT Probe, 4" Turbo back straight pipe, CCV mod, 08 Tails, 08 Pan and filter, 08 Rear Diff Cover, 03 whistler

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post #3 of 13 Old 10-11-2013, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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lol I guess I meant for it to be more of a "this is what I did" post, but instead it came out more as a public service announcement.
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-28-2013, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Bumping this back up. The one thing I missed that I've been seeing pop up lately is the Sinister Y-pipe. Would a Y-pipe be worth it on a stock or slightly upgraded turbo?
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-28-2013, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Auto_Tech View Post
Bumping this back up. The one thing I missed that I've been seeing pop up lately is the Sinister Y-pipe. Would a Y-pipe be worth it on a stock or slightly upgraded turbo?
yes sir I think it is worth it , I am running one with my power max and its spooling great low egts , also it will never break anywhere its a solid unit ..love it

2006 ford f350 xlt cclb
blue spring mod
6.4 banjo bolts
gogo direct cluth solenoid
Insight cts with pyro
str8 pipe , fuel pressure gauge
air raid cold air
zoodad mod
high idle mod
sinister coolant filter kit ec-1 rated
58 volt ficm
powermax turbo , sinister y pipe
egr delete
sct x3 with running looney wild , spd early lock up
arp studs , updated stc fitting ,stand pipes,
dummy plugs , new oem injectors
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-04-2013, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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I've decided to forgo the Sinister Y-pipe due to fitment issues. I don't feel like trying to wrestle one into place nor do I feel it'll be worth the money for myself who is on a factory turbo and injectors.
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-05-2013, 05:35 AM
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the only reason I say its worth it is bc its the last y pipe you will ever have to put in .

2006 ford f350 xlt cclb
blue spring mod
6.4 banjo bolts
gogo direct cluth solenoid
Insight cts with pyro
str8 pipe , fuel pressure gauge
air raid cold air
zoodad mod
high idle mod
sinister coolant filter kit ec-1 rated
58 volt ficm
powermax turbo , sinister y pipe
egr delete
sct x3 with running looney wild , spd early lock up
arp studs , updated stc fitting ,stand pipes,
dummy plugs , new oem injectors
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-05-2013, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotibbo View Post
the only reason I say its worth it is bc its the last y pipe you will ever have to put in .
I figure if it I have problems with my factory one I'll just take it to a marine/ag place and have them weld heavy duty flex sections in.
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-05-2013, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbotibbo View Post
yes sir I think it is worth it , I am running one with my power max and its spooling great low egts , also it will never break anywhere its a solid unit ..love it
I wouldnt say that it CANT break... We dont know how strong those welds are yet. I still think the best way to go is the stock pipes ceramic coated with the upgraded SS weave bellows. The bellows give some play in the pipes and allow for some vibration absorption
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-05-2013, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MrOneEyedBoh View Post
I wouldnt say that it CANT break... We dont know how strong those welds are yet. I still think the best way to go is the stock pipes ceramic coated with the upgraded SS weave bellows. The bellows give some play in the pipes and allow for some vibration absorption
Exactly. I would rather ceramic coat a stocker and replace the bellows with the stainless weave flex section. This makes it much easier to mount up and will aborb the vibrations causing the welds to not have to hold all of the strength. If you have to install that Y-pipe with a ratchet strap I can't imagine it's gonna last long on the welds.
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