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6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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  #1  
Old 10-01-2013, 11:57 AM
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cylinder heads

Well my trucks a 2004, got about 245xxx miles and I want to install ARP studs before I end up with a head gasket failure. While im in there I would like to make some performance changes. My question is has anyone done any head work? was it worth it? and if some one has some dyno numbers before and after their head work that would be awesome.

A little about what I do/ plan to do with the truck.
Its the occasional hauler ranging in trailers from about 7k-13k lbs
I would like to be some where in the 500-600hp range with other mods of course. basically I want a hot rod street truck that can put you in your seat and also get the fuel economy im looking for which is 22mpg on the high way. right now i get about 18mpg on the highway
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:20 PM
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There is a member here who is affiliated with Blackwater Engines out of Norfolk. They do great work. They also port and polish but the porting and polishing probably isn't worth the gain in regards to cost vs gain.
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:52 PM
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Don't want to crash this thread, but I got to know, coastie, where did you get those cool IC pipes?
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by onebadcoastie View Post
There is a member here who is affiliated with Blackwater Engines out of Norfolk. They do great work. They also port and polish but the porting and polishing probably isn't worth the gain in regards to cost vs gain.
I work for blackwater, I had done a couple sets a good while back with some port work, they sent me their heads and all. We don't really get into much of the high performance stuff through blackwater, the stock stuff keeps us busy enough as is...I've done some on my own, some with bigger valves, some with port/polish work. It definitely helps, I have some flow numbers I'll post up one of these days finally, its been relatively well documented that you can just about double the flow in cfm of the heads, some say a cam is better bang for your buck then bigger valves and lots of port work. I'd say that with stock ports, the valves probably aren't the restriction. A lot of the gains can be had simply by opening up the mouth of the port, where it meets the intake manifold...particularly with a ported intake. I don't have intake flow numbers yet, working on that part. No where that I know of does CNC porting with these heads, some might say it, but they don't go all the way via CNC, the castings are too inconsistent, they all hand port the last bit. As for whether or not its worth it?...that depends on lots of things, mostly your wallet. For your horsepower range you wouldn't really need to get into head port work to obtain those numbers. You could easily get into the 5-550 range with 175-190 injectors and a stage 2, possibly a stage 3. Ported heads and intake manifold with the right turbo could clean up lots of fuel, and lower egt's and whatnot, but you'd be spending north of 2k most anywhere you go, its a tedious tedious job.

Last edited by Gearhead2012; 10-01-2013 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:35 PM
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I just got my heads from gearhead! Thanks Jared, putting back together slowly, got valve covers back on Sunday eve... She will be back on road by Saturday eve. Did you flux my cores yet?
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jetjock15 View Post
I just got my heads from gearhead! Thanks Jared, putting back together slowly, got valve covers back on Sunday eve... She will be back on road by Saturday eve. Did you flux my cores yet?
Glad its going back together OK, no I haven't checked your heads yet, just been too busy...perhaps this weekend.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jonF-250 View Post
Don't want to crash this thread, but I got to know, coastie, where did you get those cool IC pipes?
Only the driver side one is aftermarket and it's from No Limit.

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Originally Posted by Gearhead2012 View Post
I work for blackwater,
I knew it was you Jared.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:18 AM
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Thanks GearHead2012 and everyone for the input. I know the cost vs. gain is questionable as for as horse power but, if the engine is breathing better and flowing more air psi will drop and efficiancy will go up. I know people have been getting up to that 550hp mark with out doing any head work and having no problem doing so. I'm more interested in the mpg I might see from it. I'm not in a huge rush to get this done. i found some used heads that im going to rebuild so when i do the head studs I can just swap those on and sell my old ones so there is no down time when the time actually come. I've called a machine shop here in reno thats well known and they told me i should get them extrude honed instead. what do you guys think of that?
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:31 AM
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Honing the guides is a way to slowly creep up on the desired valve to guide clearance. Lots of ways to size the guide correctly. Some shops use bronze liners, basically a thin walled bronze sleeve that is pressed into the guide after being drilled slightly larger, then they press what is essentially a ball bearing through the guide again and again until its the size they want. Some shops press in new guides all together, that's what we do, then they're sized with a reamer, nothing wrong with a reamer, but its only one size, like a drill bit. If the valve measures .2735 like 6.0's do...and you wanted .002" valve guide clearance, which is pretty typical of most engines, you'd use a reamer that's .2755"....002" bigger than the valve. But if you wanted .0022" or .0024" clearance you would need to hone the extra out of the guide to fine tune it, as there probably aren't reamers for all those oddball sizes, plus they're not always accurate down to the ten thousandth of an inch. Honing the guides can be more accurate, if its in the right hands, but its way more time consuming. Also, lots of shops don't do a ton of 6.0's...they use a 7mm valve, and lots of machine shops might not have tooling for 7mm stuff, lots still use 11/32 valve train tooling, like 302 ford, 350 Chevy, 3/8 like big block Chevy and Ford. Lots of newer engines are going with smaller and smaller valves, some of the import stuff uses 4-4.5mm valve stems. If a shop didn't have the right sized reamer, their only way to size the ID of the guide properly would be to hone it.
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead2012 View Post
Honing the guides is a way to slowly creep up on the desired valve to guide clearance. Lots of ways to size the guide correctly. Some shops use bronze liners, basically a thin walled bronze sleeve that is pressed into the guide after being drilled slightly larger, then they press what is essentially a ball bearing through the guide again and again until its the size they want. Some shops press in new guides all together, that's what we do, then they're sized with a reamer, nothing wrong with a reamer, but its only one size, like a drill bit. If the valve measures .2735 like 6.0's do...and you wanted .002" valve guide clearance, which is pretty typical of most engines, you'd use a reamer that's .2755"....002" bigger than the valve. But if you wanted .0022" or .0024" clearance you would need to hone the extra out of the guide to fine tune it, as there probably aren't reamers for all those oddball sizes, plus they're not always accurate down to the ten thousandth of an inch. Honing the guides can be more accurate, if its in the right hands, but its way more time consuming. Also, lots of shops don't do a ton of 6.0's...they use a 7mm valve, and lots of machine shops might not have tooling for 7mm stuff, lots still use 11/32 valve train tooling, like 302 ford, 350 Chevy, 3/8 like big block Chevy and Ford. Lots of newer engines are going with smaller and smaller valves, some of the import stuff uses 4-4.5mm valve stems. If a shop didn't have the right sized reamer, their only way to size the ID of the guide properly would be to hone it.
Thanks for the info.
ok so I guess my question now is what can I do with these heads that would be worth it. I'm picking them up this weekend they have 120k on them and the guy upgraded to another set of heads a shop put on for him. I've been reading on porting the intake manifold and it seems like just something mild is the way to go with that. I've kinda been dipping into looking at cams also. I just really want this thing to breath well so I can hit that 22mpg mark Diesel being $4+ and climbing is my motivation for this haha because in 10 years I dont even want to imagine what theyre going to be having us pay for a gallon
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