Stock pushrods - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 12 Old 09-30-2013, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Stock pushrods

What kind of HP will the stock pushrods handle? Do the stock pushrods wear that much that it is necessary to install them in the exact same location as they previously were?

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post #2 of 12 Old 10-01-2013, 04:04 AM
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I've seen stock pushrods bend and wear out on stock power level engines. The amount of preload in the hydraulic lifter plays a huge role. If you're not familiar with how a hydraulic lifter works, as opposed to a solid/mechanical lifter look it up on Google. Basically the stock pushrods are too long from the factory, they've address this, now if you go to buy a new pushrod from ford you get a pushrod that is .050" shorter, same length as 6.4's. Aftermarket pushrods aren't a bad idea, as long as theyre the same length as the new pushrods from ford. The rocker arm geometry, and general valve train quality is pretty poor on these motors...stamped steel rocker arms provide less accurate rocker ratios. Stock lifter preload on 6.0's is normally around .100-.120"...it should be around .020-.040" preload, the shorter pushrods help, but there is a huge variance in rocket arms. We took 2 brand new rocker arms and measured lifter preload on the same pushrod and bridge location. One rocker provided lifter preload of right around .140", the next had about .060"...so a variance of about .080" between rocker arms. Thats also why some people on stock engines have piston to valve clearance issues, even worse if theyve been milled. They should have come with solid lifters and adjustable rocker arms from the factory.



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post #3 of 12 Old 10-01-2013, 01:39 PM
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I just got all new ones and they are noticeably shorter. They all have same part number so not sure the location matters. The new ones have copper finish on one end and that it supposed to be the top (that end up).

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post #4 of 12 Old 10-01-2013, 01:55 PM
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If you buy new ones location doesn't really matter at all, if you re use your old ones, one of the main reasons to keep them in the same locations they came out of is because of the variance in rocker arms and in pushrod length. Even the factory pushrods will vary .010-015" in length from one another...if it ran well before, you don't want to put a pushrod back in the wrong spot, potentially tipping things over the edge as far as piston to valve clearance, or lifter preload. It probably wouldn't hurt 90% of the people out there if you mixed em up, but i wouldn't want to be a part of the other 10% lol. Best bet is like rob did and replace em all with the shorter ones...I think you said they were like 60 bucks or so?



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post #5 of 12 Old 10-01-2013, 02:09 PM
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I got my pushrods from Tousley and they were 3.80 each.

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post #6 of 12 Old 10-01-2013, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead2012 View Post
If you buy new ones location doesn't really matter at all, if you re use your old ones, one of the main reasons to keep them in the same locations they came out of is because of the variance in rocker arms and in pushrod length. Even the factory pushrods will vary .010-015" in length from one another...if it ran well before, you don't want to put a pushrod back in the wrong spot, potentially tipping things over the edge as far as piston to valve clearance, or lifter preload. It probably wouldn't hurt 90% of the people out there if you mixed em up, but i wouldn't want to be a part of the other 10% lol. Best bet is like rob did and replace em all with the shorter ones...I think you said they were like 60 bucks or so?
So if you went and got aftermarket push rods are they shorter to? If so what aftermarket push rods would you recommend that are chrome molly.


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post #7 of 12 Old 10-01-2013, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys, I'm def replacing them now just not sure if I should stick with stock replacements or go aftermarket.

I had been looking at RCD's pushrods set for $249 just not sure if it's worth the extra cost over OEM. With the upgrades I'm doing I know I won't push close to 600 HP so just wondering if the aftermarket ones are really necessary.



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post #8 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 02:52 AM
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I have no idea if aftermarkets are shorter like the new oems? With this unknown I would definitely go with new OEM, I too paid $3.80 per from the one formerly known as "Tousley"

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post #9 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUGERNAUT View Post
So if you went and got aftermarket push rods are they shorter to? If so what aftermarket push rods would you recommend that are chrome molly.
Hey man, I don't know what aftermarket pushrods are the 'right' length. I think Adrian said he bought some RCD, he said they were .010" longer than stock 6.0 which would be worse lol. I don't know if they offer pushrods for a 6.4 that might be shorter. If I had upgraded valve springs i would definitely go with chrome Molly pushrods. Each pushrod opens 2 valves, so if you go from factory spring seat pressure of about 80-90 psi, to aftermarket springs...I think the ones I installed for Nate had about 125-130 lbs of spring seat pressure... so an additional 30-40 psi per spring means 60-80psi total additional increase in spring pressure to overcome to open the valves. If I was to run aftermarket springs or planned on spinning around 4-4500 rpm a lot, I'd go for aftermarket pushrods as long as they were the right length.

The other option is the 2500 dollar harland sharp rockers, they're adjustable so pushrod length is less critical, as you would set lifter preload just like you would a small block Chevy...or eliminate the other huge variable and go with solid lifters at the same time, in which case you would also pick up a couple extra degrees of duration, maybe a hair more lift, as you'd eliminate the sponge between your pushrod and cam.



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Warren 205/75 Injectors
KC Turbo 71mm VGT
Twisted Diesel Level 3 Transmission/PI Converter
AFE Intercooler/Flexalite Fans/Mishimoto Radiator
Icon 4 Link, 37" Nitto's
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Yukon 4.30's, Detroit Locker


Machining the 6.0:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ine-6-0-a.html
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-02-2013, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead2012 View Post
Hey man, I don't know what aftermarket pushrods are the 'right' length. I think Adrian said he bought some RCD, he said they were .010" longer than stock 6.0 which would be worse lol. I don't know if they offer pushrods for a 6.4 that might be shorter. If I had upgraded valve springs i would definitely go with chrome Molly pushrods. Each pushrod opens 2 valves, so if you go from factory spring seat pressure of about 80-90 psi, to aftermarket springs...I think the ones I installed for Nate had about 125-130 lbs of spring seat pressure... so an additional 30-40 psi per spring means 60-80psi total additional increase in spring pressure to overcome to open the valves. If I was to run aftermarket springs or planned on spinning around 4-4500 rpm a lot, I'd go for aftermarket pushrods as long as they were the right length.

The other option is the 2500 dollar harland sharp rockers, they're adjustable so pushrod length is less critical, as you would set lifter preload just like you would a small block Chevy...or eliminate the other huge variable and go with solid lifters at the same time, in which case you would also pick up a couple extra degrees of duration, maybe a hair more lift, as you'd eliminate the sponge between your pushrod and cam.
Very interesting! I think I will get one pushrod tomorrow and order 1 chrome molly and measure them just to see.


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