Let's talk about Meth and Water - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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  #1  
Old 09-17-2013, 11:47 AM
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Let's talk about Meth and Water

Hey guys.....

So I'm already in the process of spending my deployment money even though I haven't left yet but am supposed to be some time soon. One of the things I'm looking to do is a water/meth kit. I've started to look at what my choices are. I've done a little searching on the org about the whole deal and have looked at Devils Own, as well as AEMs kits, but I am pretty much set on getting myself a Snow Performance kit.

I am NOT studded. I do not plan on running meth in the system right away because I feel it will end up killing my head gaskets (even though I am ECM tuned and FICM tuned) I feel that the cylinder pressure increase of meth would be the death of them. Unless someone knows otherwise, or has used it otherwise and has had luck or proof of it not being a bad thing on a non studded truck.

So like I said I am pretty much set on Snow Perf. but I am kind of confused on the differences between the kits.

Right now I am mostly looking at the Stage 2 Boost Cooler for the truck. But what is the differences between the Stage 2 and the Tow Max and MPG Max other than just the controller? I do not need nor really want the fancy controller of the MPG or Tow max. So I would save the couple extra hundred of those two kits and put it to a larger storage tank (9.5gal) to hold the water (water/meth) and still cost me less than what a Tow/MPG max would cost me.

This kit would only be used for towing and for long trips, not really every day driving.

That's kind of confusing as I look through it again..... so what it comes down to is...

-Benefit of Tow max?
-Benefit of MPG max?
OR
-Stick with what I want... Stage 2 with a 9.5 gallon storage tank?

And what is the risk factor of running meth in a nonstudded truck?

Thanks guys! Looking forward to your words of knowledge.
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2013, 12:22 PM
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You really SHOULD take that water/meth fund and put it towards an EGR delete and Head studs/machine work. I run an AEM setup and it does what I need it to do (control EGTs towing) but there are many other performance mods I would put ahead of water/meth. A ported intake manifold or a billet wheel help a LOT with towing. I felt quicker spool up and cleaner exhaust with the added load of a camper along with lower cruising EGTs. The water injection really only helps me on acceleration and climbing hills.

However, if your truck still has TTY head bolts I wouldn't be towing with a tune (except a stock power/transmission tune). And if you're not towing with a power tune, EGTs should be manageable.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:29 PM
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I was just thinking of this today. Trying to figure out what kit would be best.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:01 PM
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for the price i think cooling mist is a better deal...


Although I have never heard anything bad about snow performance... except for the price
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertc68 View Post
I was just thinking of this today. Trying to figure out what kit would be best.
I would at minimum purchase a kit (or build a kit) with a progressive controller. The very basic kits will use a manifold pressure switch to to close the circuit for the pump. Its an all-or-nothing setup. I would only recommend it for those who are interested in its benefits at WOT only. I have my progressive controller set at min-12psi (25% duty cycle) and max-26psi (100% duty cycle) and I use two smaller nozzles (to atomize finer) that equate to 865cc.

I strongly recommend a large capacity tank. The "water meth" tanks are expensive and if you're savvy you can find a tank much cheaper. This is the tank I use... 6 Gallon Heavy Duty Specialty Tank w/Pump Mount, 2" Lid, No Fitting 15"L x 12"W x 8"H | U.S. Plastic Corp. which cost me just over $50 shipped and it fits in my tool box perfect. With my setup towing a camper I will use the entire tank in 4 hours. It will last 4-6 weeks if I don't tow. While I do have other modifications to reduce EGTs, it will drop egts from 950 degrees @ 75mph to 900 @75mph. With this setup and a performance tune my truck never sees dangerous EGTs unless WOT for a LONG time.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:32 PM
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Sorry to derail thread but what is dangerous EGT when towing ??
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro fuzz View Post
Sorry to derail thread but what is dangerous EGT when towing ??
Thats not really derailing.... due to the fact of water/meth decreasing EGTS...

You dont really want your egts going over about 1250 for an extended ammount of time, after that damage can occure to your engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotta_gofast View Post
You really SHOULD take that water/meth fund and put it towards an EGR delete and Head studs/machine work. I run an AEM setup and it does what I need it to do (control EGTs towing) but there are many other performance mods I would put ahead of water/meth. A ported intake manifold or a billet wheel help a LOT with towing. I felt quicker spool up and cleaner exhaust with the added load of a camper along with lower cruising EGTs. The water injection really only helps me on acceleration and climbing hills.

However, if your truck still has TTY head bolts I wouldn't be towing with a tune (except a stock power/transmission tune). And if you're not towing with a power tune, EGTs should be manageable.

I was reading this and I was like. My egr is deleted its in my sig... but then I remembered I changed my sig I'm really pushing the edge of what the headgaskets will take I think...

I have...
-155cc/stock injectors
-Stock Turbo
-ECM Tuning
-FICM Tuning

My EGTs are not outrageous. But sometimes going through the mountians going between home (south dakota) and back to my duty station (utah) there are some long climbs that drive EGTs up rather quickly. I do not use my "performance" tune when pulling, I do have a mild tow/daily tune that I use for that.

I do also have a few other things on my deployment wish list for truck parts, I was just currious as to what was thought of these kits and which of the three is really worth it? Like you said the price is a bit overboard with the Snows... But the one I'm looking at isnt really that bad. It has a good controller and it would do the job just like the others would do, but the controller does not seem to be as... customizeable i guess you could say.

Eventually when I get out of the military or go guard and go back to my home town some of my highschool shop buddies and myself want to start an auto shop. My truck has already been designated as the work tow rig possibly hauling a 30ft gooseneck with tools and possible broken down cars on the back. I'm looking to prepare the truck for that leg of its life and also the haul of all my stuff I will have to take when I move.

I know headstuds is a good investment and it is high on my priority list... I'm also trying to figure out if I want to have a shop do them or just do them myself and knock out some other things while i'm in there such as regulated return.. ect. I dont really want to do the work with the cab on, I would much rather take it off and have plenty of room to work. Has any one heard of or done it themselves of taking the cab off without a lift? Like along the lines getting 6 guys together and just lifting it up and moving it? I know that sounds redneck as all get out but thats what i'm seriously thinking about doing. Of course i would take out some of the extra weight, IE the seats.... I know taking the cab off is more work, but at the same time i'm 6'4" and work on small f16s all the time, I want to go home do this heavy work and have room to access everything I need.

Pro Fuzz... now that is derailing a thread =P

Last edited by USAFBowman; 09-17-2013 at 03:20 PM.
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  #8  
Old 09-17-2013, 04:07 PM
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I did the head studs/head work myself. I just pulled the engine. While it sounds intimidating, it took me about 6 hours to have the engine sitting on a stand. I recommend this alternative. If you remove the bumper, grill, radiator, intercooler and all of the front engine accessories, starter, turbo, unbolt the transmission using a 48" extension from the front and remove the turbo down pipe, motor mounts, then pull the engine up a few inches and forward. No need to even remove the hood!

When doing studs half of the battle to long term success of the 6.0L is to trust a reputable machine shop familiar with 6.0L heads to inspect and blueprint your heads.
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:54 PM
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Here is a historical thread with a lot of info on H20 Meth......

Water/Meth Write Up

D
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2013, 04:55 PM
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Been running water injection for about 7 years...I love it. I have snows stage 2 kit. I ran it truck pulling back in 2006 without studs and with a edge juice w/attitude stacked with bullydog tripledog programmer. Ran it like that for one summer until I switched to SCT and did head studs. Never had any issues with it.
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