why not stud one at a time? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 51 Old 08-21-2013, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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why not stud one at a time?

Ok so I have heard don't do it but I hsvent seen a reason why if there isn't a current problem why you can do one at a time just hoping for some logic vs just don't do it haha

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post #2 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 12:24 AM
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just read a thread about doing 1 stud at a time the guy would remove one and torq the first sequence i believe 65 ftlbs and then remove and replace 2nd and do torq at 65 then once all were done on each side he did the continued torq sequence on each one. then moved on to the next head.

he said it was called hot potting or something where you leave oem studs in one at a time to prevent headgasket from lifting and you will need to dent up fire wall and cut the top of a stuff of while using something to hold bottom to remove it.

Studs one at a time, easier than I thought....

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post #3 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 01:06 AM
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Dont do it. You will end up re doing it the proper way shortly after

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post #4 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 01:28 AM
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...even if it worked half the problem lies in the cylinder head. I know my heads were out 0.009" so even overtorqued studs wouldn't pull that together for long.

'06 F250 FX4 6.0L typical bolt on
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post #5 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 01:38 AM
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Yeah nothing should be over torqued. By over torquing you make the bolt (or in this case the stud) work outside of its working limits.. Thus leading to improper clamping and reduced tension etc.
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post #6 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 03:02 AM
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I haven't read about anybody having head gasket issues after doing studs one at a time. I wouldn't recommend torquing to 65 and then after each is in place working them up to full torque. The heads/gaskets are already set, pull one out and go full torque on the stud right away. It couldn't hurt to go back through after the last stud is in and retorque them all in sequence.
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post #7 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 03:30 AM
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Your head gaskets may be in the process of failing and you not know it, the truck have no symptoms yet. Studs may hold off a little longer or letting the head back of to 65psi might finish the job. If you recently had head gaskets installed then maybe I'd go for it but if you have a lot of miles on them I wouldn't do it without new gaskets. If you have to do it torque the bolt all the way as you replace each one as Cliff says above.
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post #8 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 05:00 AM
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I guess its a question of time and money and want to and availablity of a good shop that can grind the heads. I did the 1 at a time and have yet to have any issues. I had the money to do the job, but the nearest place I could take the heads to is a 2 hour drive. So I tossed the dice and so far so good.
And just because you pull the head and all looks good and you do run what ever head gasket that everybody has decided is the "best of all time,at this time" is dosnt mean that they wont blow again.
The only down side is now I wish I could run a good tune. And Im nervous about throwin the dice again.

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post #9 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 06:58 AM
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Unless you know the clamping force of each original bolt and install each stud to that amount, it's a crap shoot. By loosening the bolts you are doing the exact same thing as what happens when overheating the engine, sometimes a re-torque works and sometimes it doesn't.

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post #10 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 07:55 AM
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I did the 1 for 1 because i couldn't justify pulling the heads at 20k truck now has 55k on it with no problems and it has been tuned the whole time.What i did is took a dial torque wrench and loosened one bolt it took 165fts so that is what i used for my initial torque after replacing all the bolts then I did my final torque.As far as the proper way thats your decision I have done several head stud jobs the right way if thats what you want to call it its not to difficult.It's a roll of the dice but i was willing to try it and it has worked so far.Cost me the price of the studs and some time.

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