6.0 egr delete - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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6.0 egr delete

Hey y'all, first day on the site. I have a 2005 and am about to dive in to delete the egr, install new oil cooler, and coolant filter kit from sinister diesel. Any tips? My truck had ARP studs put in sometime before I bought it, any way to tell what size they are so I know how much power I can run safely?
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post #2 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 10:58 AM
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Well first Welcome man. Hope to be able to be of some help.

With what you're doing, I would recommend setting aside a Saturday to do. It's pretty easy for the most part but stuff is hard to reach or get to on these motors sometimes and that just eats time.

As far as studs go, there aren't different sizes. There's only different materials and that's gonna be next to impossible to tell I think from just looking at the studs from the top of the motor. I would be more concerned that you actually have studs and if anything, maybe check the torque on them if you do. You can tell if you have studs by looking at the motor around the valve cover and you should see 12 point start nuts that are threaded onto a shaft looking like they clamp the head to the motor. If you see a 6pt hex shape in that spot, then you don't have studs and still have the factory head bolts. If in doubt, post a pic of the passenger side valve cover. I'm sure we would be able to see from the pic if you have them or not. Best of luck.

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2006 F250 (LITTLE DURTY) - WPE Manifold, Up-pipes, EGR delete kit, and Tuned By ME
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 01:59 PM
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tips for the egr delete is take your time , lable everything any questions come to the org and ask for help . also youtube has loads of vids and there are tons of build threads on here to look through . I recommend researching a bit befor hand get all your info rteady such as tork specs ect..... its straight forward and can be done by almost any one with basic hand tools good luck


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post #4 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 03:08 PM
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Spend some time cleaning... you really want to be clean and organized when replacing stuff like an oil cooler. Its easy to knock dirt or crud into the valley. Be aware of the injector electrical plugs when pulling the intake manifold as not to break them. Make sure the up pipe V-band flange is absolutely true with the turbo flange before installing and tightening the V-band clamp. Work that first, then tighten the other related components. Last bit... try to find who or where the head studs were installed (oasis report or talk to previous owner). I bought my truck with ARPs installed but I still ended up with blown gaskets 6 months later.

'06 F250 FX4 6.0L typical bolt on
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Windrunner, thanks for the welcome. I work at a diesel shop and these motors roll in from time to time, they are a pain to work on but I haven't been real far in to them, just rebuilt a few turbos and replaced some hpo O-rings on the manifold and standpipes. Can I get to all the studs to torque them without lifting the cab up? and whats the spec? i'll check em before I throw a programmer on it. Gottagofast, I bought it from a GM dealer a couple months ago and all they could tell me was it had gaskets, injectors, and new egr cooler done last summer. The dealer was about useless, if you ever have a chance to buy something from coughlin auto in ohio... don't lol Any special tools I might need for this job, or anything I might pick up to make it easier?
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 06:24 PM
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Any competent Ford dealer (service dept) should be able to run your VIN and see a repair history. Since you work at a diesel shop, you more than likely have all the tools you'll need. Some of the "hard to reach" fasteners will require extensions and swivels to get at. An air-ratchet makes short work of the rear turbo-mount bolt and V-band clamp (The clamp's threads face the cab from Ford). Speaking of such, you might want to order new V-band clamps in case you bust the old ones. Same with up-pipe hardware.

'06 F250 FX4 6.0L typical bolt on
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-20-2013, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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So I just finished the job, new oil cooler, sinister egr delete and coolant filter kit. Started it, let it warm up, checked for leaks, then took her down the road. Before I did the work I would get a light haze of white when I took off, and now its a full cloud. Why would it get worse!? also it doesn't sound right, like a boost leak, rushing air. I torqued every bolt to spec so that really irritates me too... but the engine itself runs smooth at idle. IM stumped. I hope its something that will go away after a couple hundred miles but I doubt it. thanks
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-20-2013, 05:14 PM
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The turbos in these things don't like to line up with the exhaust pipes much. Check those and all your boots they tear sometimes...good luck.


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post #9 of 14 Old 07-20-2013, 06:05 PM
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Getting everything back to being air tight can test your nerves for sure

BPD OIL COOLER W/COLD WEATHER PACK & BPD oil bypass amsiol filter
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-04-2013, 04:47 PM
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I am looking at doing a BPD EGR cooler upgrade or a EGR Delete and not sure which way I should go, any recommendations? If I go delete who is the best option and are there any kits that come with the programer and everything needed to perform the job? Thank you in advance


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