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Custom hood questions...

6K views 42 replies 11 participants last post by  kinnisoj 
#1 ·
I tried lookin this up in the search and did not see too much. As you may or may not know Ive been working with what I believe to be abit too high EOT's. I noticed this to be a issue with speeds over 75mph with oat's over 95*. I am currently lookin at a more free flowin grill set up but then I got to wondering what about a hood scoop (their is probably a better name for this but forgive me Im a 70's kid okay..)
If you look at the OEM hood set up the heat has no were to go but down. So if you had a reverse cowl induction style that let the air flow out would that be effective??
Just wondering what your thoughts are on these. Thanks

For example-http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/Extreme-Dimensions/Hoods/Ford-F250-Superduty-Extreme-Dimensions-Duraflex-Cowl-Hood-_-1PC-_-107946/866872/
 
#2 ·
I don't see where the air is going to get pushed up if it comes in at the same places.

Maybe i'm missing something and there is channels underneath?

Denny
 
#3 ·
Im wondering about the hoods with the opening facing the windshield. Wouldn't this give the air another route to exit, and there fore allow more airflow, and lower the under hood temps and allow more air through the radiators??
 
#4 ·
in theory it all about IAT the old air cleaner on top of a carb loved a cowl hood

but Ours are located up front
I have never seen anyone mention lower EGT's , ECT's or cooler AC due to the condenser flow improving with a cowl hood

I am also in the market just because thanks to Ford eliminating the hood blanket My paint is a little cloudy near the turbo

so If I am having anything painted it is going to be custom LOL
 
#5 ·
Boy o boy lookin at these things...they sure can get pricey.
 
#6 ·
Actually the area right in front of the windshield and where the cowl hood would end becomes a low pressure area. Look at how a Nascar engine sits in the race car. This is right where they draw the air for the carb from. Not much going out through here.

You need a heat extractor hood like Layson has on his truck.
 
#7 ·
The heat extraction hood might be the best bet
 
#8 ·
#18 · (Edited)
I'm no aerodynamics engineer, but I do know that rear facing openings in a hood close to the windshield draws air in, not extract it. I realize that it says heat extractor, but as was previously mentioned, that low pressure area there draws air in.

Why not use a forward opening hood scoop? It seems like that would have a ram air effect and with no where else for the air to go, it would have to go out the bottom.

Yeah, they're pretty pricey, add in some paint at a body shop and it gets ugly.

**EDIT** I've always liked these hoods http://www.cervinis.com/99-07super-duty-type4-ram-air-hood.html#prettyPhoto At $700, I'm glad I know how to paint.
 
#10 ·
You would think a cowl hood lets air out the back....but that's not the case lol. The air flowing under the truck actually causes air to be sucked in at the cowl, hints the name Cowl induction.
As evident by the leaves always stuck to mine lol.
 
#14 ·
yes from the earlier years
there is actually a few items they deleted like lit door markers and fender skirts

I missed a heat extractor for $75 bucks on Craigs

the pain was only slightly better when i scored My new Titan replacement 50 gal fuel tank and skid plate for $200 bucks LOL
 
#17 · (Edited)
From the FTE here is the link to see the bold items that didn't paste and copy correctly and the two pic links seem to be dead even if you try at FTE however FTE is a slow site so I posted the list here http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/375591-missing-items-on-the-super-duty.html

This information was provide by 04FordHarleyF250


Here's a shopping list for the Missing Items on the Super Duty

The part numbers in BOLD are correct as I purchased them for my 04 F-250 Harley Davidson Diesel truck. The other part numbers came from other treads in this and other forums. Please confirm part numbers before ordering.

1) Glove Box Light
E7DZ-14413-A Glove Box Light and Switch.
2) There is an opening in the front wheel wells and the engine is exposed (area around the top of the front shocks.
YC3Z-16102-BA Front inner fender RT cover includes push pins.
YC3Z-16103-BA Front inner fender LF cover includes push pins.
LEFT FRONT 3C7Z-16103-BA NEW numbers
RIGHT FRONT 3C7Z-16102-BA NEW numbers

Left Side Before picture:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall.../71567.520.390
Left Side After Picture:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall.../71568.520.390

3) Rear Wheel Well Liners
F81Z-9928370-AA QTY 2 Fender Liner for in front of the rear wheels
Push pins: 389358-S, You'll need four (2 per liner)
F81Z-9928370-CA QTY 2 Fender Liner for the rear side of the rear wheels
Push pins: 389358-S, You'll need four (2 per liner)

4) Under Hood Liner
3C3Z-16738-BD Hood Liner and N808842-S for the plastic snaps that hold it on. The under hood liner uses 16 plastic push pins and they come in bags of 4 so you will need four bags.
F81Z-16A238-BB SEAL ASSY BACK WEATHER STRIP / HOLDER
F81Z-16A238-AA SE ASSY-HOOD FRONT WEATHER STRIP / HOLDER
 
#19 ·
Honestly...i wouldn't even think about adding a hood liner. I removed mine to remove some of the heat from under the hood. Most guys that have had the liner...removed it
 
#26 ·
#25 ·
#34 ·
well the hood itself isn't letting heat out either other than what it radiates through the steel and into the atmosphere

so I can't wrap My head around a 30 degree drop from removing a blanket that wasn't in contact with any engine components and not blocking any air flow ?
 
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