Anyone go from 35" to 37's and regret it? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2013, 06:01 PM
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Anyone go from 35" to 37's and regret it?

I'm not 100% sold on the 37's and 7" Icon lift.
Actually their 4.5" + 2" Spacer and related parts, drop Pitman Arm, Drop Steering Stab. bracket, Drop Track Arm 2" Shock Extenders and ....

May need 4:30's in place of the 3.73's It just feels a lil luggy 1950 RPM @ 70 mph and noticeably rougher riding....

Mickey Thompson 13.50 x 37 x 18's

My real complaint is the rougher ride since i'm running 50 PSI to keep the Death Wobble from happening.

Previously ran Nitto 35's 1250 and hadn't been for a screaming deal on the 37's would've stayed with 35's.

I may run it this way until I wear out the 37's or decide to scrap it all and go back.

Option 2 would be to leave it at 6.5" and run Toyo AT's 35's and if i don't like the ride take out the blocks and leave the drop brackets as I don't think they will hurt.

Thoughts from those that have been there and done this?

Denny
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:26 PM
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I run 37s on my 8" icon lift. I will say that regearing is in my near future. 37s and 3.73s are not a good combo. As for the ride, I like it. Sure its no caddy but its good
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:47 PM
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I would do 4.10 is i could go bck honestly, i run 38s and 4.30s now spinning a lil higher rpm does pull hard but lack duel mileage i had better mileage back in the day with 3.73 and 37s in my opinion after running the gears 4.10 probably be a happy median between the 2
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:03 PM
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I dont think 37's and 3.73 feel bad enough to rear gear. If your looking at going up a few inches because of them I would say do the Icon 7" kit. The 7" springs ride better then the 4.5" springs. And I ran the 4.5" springs with and without a tei spacer. and another option is to sell the 37's and pick up some 35's and keep everything the same as before.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colonel angus View Post
I'm not 100% sold on the 37's and 7" Icon lift.
Actually their 4.5" + 2" Spacer and related parts, drop Pitman Arm, Drop Steering Stab. bracket, Drop Track Arm 2" Shock Extenders and ....

May need 4:30's in place of the 3.73's It just feels a lil luggy 1950 RPM @ 70 mph and noticeably rougher riding....

Mickey Thompson 13.50 x 37 x 18's

My real complaint is the rougher ride since i'm running 50 PSI to keep the Death Wobble from happening.

Previously ran Nitto 35's 1250 and hadn't been for a screaming deal on the 37's would've stayed with 35's.

I may run it this way until I wear out the 37's or decide to scrap it all and go back.

Option 2 would be to leave it at 6.5" and run Toyo AT's 35's and if i don't like the ride take out the blocks and leave the drop brackets as I don't think they will hurt.

Thoughts from those that have been there and done this?

Denny
Your truck should t be death wobbling. Have someone slightly move your wheel left to right and look at all your steering pivots for play. Also if your track bar and drag link are not equal or are a distance away from each other that will cause severe bump steer and may cause a wobble. Also check the track bar
Bolt for proper torque. Also steering dampner. Also caster should be positive around 4 degrees. Pm me if you have issues about steering

If your gonna run 37s regear to 4.30s and 4.10 on 35s your gonna want them rpms near stock, it's gonna lower your egts and make your truck funner to drive
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:00 AM
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Col, I have to agree with DAWG on the death wobble. My truck did it once bad and I fixed it. If your experiencing real shake-your-truck-like-crazy death wobble you need to get it fixed. It will tear your front end apart. Running higher air pressure is a temporary band aid. As for 35s versus 37s, sounds like your considering all the right aspects. As far as gearing, just google one of the gear ratio charts and find your sweet spot. If you tow often, you will need to re-gear to match.

To fix the death wobble do all ball joints, the trac bar ball joint, and the drag link. Run a steering stabilizer is required. About $500 in parts but those items need servicing every once in awhile, so that will fix it. If you can only replace one thing it's most likely the trac bar ball joint. Take a 4' pry bar, but it on top of axle but underneath trac bar over towards passenger side. Apply Ton of pressure upwards, watch the trac bar, if it lifts at all inside the ball joint connection - that is your death wobble, replace trac bar ball joint.
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  #7  
Old 05-15-2013, 03:04 AM
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4.10's would be a better fit if you decided to drop back down to 35's.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:19 AM
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Gotta add, since we do this all the time, you have to fix the wobble. It will get worse if you don't. 100% agree with jetjock, except it can be a number of different things and even if track bar has play it may not be the complete fix. It still needs replaced, and you can't go wrong getting it out of there, but still may not be the last thing you need to replace.

If overinflating your tires makes it go away you are covering up for a problem that is still happening, however slight, and is tearing your front end apart.

Very interested in others opinions on gearing, I am going to 4.30s in the next few weeks. My truck is laggy and slow, hoping that will help. Along with upgrade to stage 3 that should be on the way. I will share as I have 37s too.
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  #9  
Old 05-15-2013, 07:37 AM
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I should clarify, i had the wobble without any stabilizers, on a ride around the neighborhood on a bumpy road and a bridge crossing, so I know what it is and wouldn't wish it on anybody at any speed.

So I upgraded the factory drag link stab to Bilstein, replaced the aging dual Bilstein Stabs with fresh shocks, and the above mods drop this and that, 4.5 Deg. + Caster, aligned perfectly, had tech turn steering box 1 rev. so it still centers on it's own but is tighter at the mid point - no 1/2" back and forth.

My only complaint is the truck rides rougher and responds slower than before around town and at the ideal 75 mph.

It requires more input almost constantly when driving where before it was set the cruise at 75 and almost go to sleep even pulling a bass boat.

I didn't realize it would be this much difference in feel and ride.

I'll likely lower the air PSI 5 lbs. at a time to about 40 from 55 and see if that makes it feel any smoother.

Then tackle the RnP to 4:10's minimum possibly 4:30's whichever will be better in the long run in case i decide to revert back to 35's.

It may just take getting used to so we'll take it on a 500 mile all highway jaunt this weekend.

Denny
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:48 AM
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