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6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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noobee turbo question

well actully 2 noobee questions-
On a 2003 turbo is there any O ring between the 2 halfs of the turbo?

And what is your secret's on finding a leak? Got the turbo on, runs fine sound great but I can hear the leak while crusing and the Wife can smell it. I broke both band clamps apart and the connections seem very tight.
Just so much noise in there I cant pin point it. Thanks

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post #2 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
On a 2003 turbo is there any O ring between the 2 halfs of the turbo?
Not technically an O-ring, but there is an oil seal ring between the CHRA and the compressor backing plate. The turbine side has a steel oil ring on the shaft into the CHRA and the compressor side of the shaft has a thrust bearing to seal it on the CHRA side of the backing plate.

If you can smell a leak, it is on the turbine side. The fitment has to be perfect, or it won't seal no matter how tight the v-band clamps are. EGR cooler to uppipe, all connection points on the up-pipes. Look for cracks in the up-pipes. Same for the downpipe connection. Tough to find sometimes. When not in bright light, use a flashlight to try and see whiffs of exhaust. It could be the manifold or even the manifold to up-pipe.

Frank
2007 F-250 Lariat Crew. MBM 190/50s,
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thats a good idea, Ill wait for tonite and take the flashlite out. Thanks

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post #4 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 06:31 PM
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If the turbo was seperated and cleaned it could be leaking between the center housing and turbine housing. I've had a few that were very tight going back together and even ones that didn't seat fully on the first try. If you try and use the clamp to draw the 2 halves of the turbo together this doesn't always work

This is why it's very important to mark the location of the turbine housing clamp. If it is in the right location (stud lined up with the compressor outlet) can be loosened and tightened on the vehicle just incase.

-Matt

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post #5 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Sinner6.0l Im glad you chimend in here, what would you do to insure a good seal if say someone sent you a box of turbo parts and you had to put this mees together with out it being marked?

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post #6 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinner6.0L View Post
If the turbo was seperated and cleaned it could be leaking between the center housing and turbine housing. I've had a few that were very tight going back together and even ones that didn't seat fully on the first try. If you try and use the clamp to draw the 2 halves of the turbo together this doesn't always work

This is why it's very important to mark the location of the turbine housing clamp. If it is in the right location (stud lined up with the compressor outlet) can be loosened and tightened on the vehicle just incase.
I just went out and checked the stud line up and it sure seems pretty close.

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post #7 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 07:25 PM
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when the engine is cold see if you can reach around and feel for leaks, sometimes this the the best way. EBP should be high enough just idling for a leak to be found. Boost not so much

Quote:
Originally Posted by kinnisoj View Post
Sinner6.0l Im glad you chimend in here, what would you do to insure a good seal if say someone sent you a box of turbo parts and you had to put this mees together with out it being marked?
haha is it just the exhaust parts seperated or is it the whole turbo? If it's just the exhaust side that is pretty simple

the biggest thing is being able to actually see that the turbine housing and center housing are seated together tight before tightening the clamp. sometimes using the clamp to suck the 2 halves together works and sometimes it doesn't.

-Matt

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post #8 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 07:57 PM
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If it was the turbine case, it would have been a good idea to use a wire wheel and whip as clean and smooth as fresh steel. That and WD40 or anti-seize will make it easy to get it back together. Don't be shy about hitting it with a soft hammer or a piece of hardwood to ping it if it wasn't coming perfectly together. Same for taking it apart. Of course, don't beat the crap out of it either. Also, don't hit it if you are not sure if the VGT lever and case pin are home.

I didn't recommend the hand/feel method just because you need to do it safely!

Frank
2007 F-250 Lariat Crew. MBM 190/50s,
KC-68 Stage 3 Turbo,
DashBoss/F/P, and a few other goodies
Stiction Problems - Fix it yourself! - http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ml#post4509754
Want to modify your injectors DIY - http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...ger-flows.html

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post #9 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Well it is in the truck and the truck is biulding boost so Im 99% sure Ive got the case pin and hole lined up....but is it possible to even get the clamp to hold good enough if say you completely screwed this up and missaligned it BADDLY? And would the turbo even be able to biuld boost?

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post #10 of 16 Old 02-16-2013, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Also could you do the old soapy water bubble trick to find the leak?

BPD OIL COOLER W/COLD WEATHER PACK & BPD oil bypass amsiol filter
BPD WATER PUMP, RADIATOR+ EGR.ARP STUDS
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