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factory fuel pump

2K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  onebadcoastie 
#1 ·
My factory fuel pump will drop to 30 psi under heavy throttle with my 155 50 injectors, was thinking about a new oe pump. Should I stick with a ford pump or can I run the delphi or airtex pumps I found online for half the price? obviously the priority is performance. PS I have the blue spring and 6.4 banjo's, the factory pump has 100k miles on it.
 
#2 ·
Id stick with the oem pump imo. Ive read Tousley has them for $280shipped. How are you reading fuel psi? What brand gauge?
 
#3 ·
Reading off edge with 0-100 psi gauge plumbed into test port on the filter housing
 
#6 ·
I recently bought/installed a Carter HFCM with pump and filter for $200 off eBay. Albeit I am on OEM injectors, my PSI had dipped as low as 20 psi shortly after going WFO. After the install, it didn't go below 50 psi, triple digits, WFO.

Be MUCHO CAREFULO with the plastic connectors on the left (aft) side of the HFCM, I broke one. While Auto Zone sells a fuel line disconnector set for right at $20, the one I bought broke on the second line. I could still use it, but the c-clip and spring went flying.
 
#7 ·
karls how much pressure were u making at idle? cause mine still makes like 68, and 65 cruising, just under wfo at high rpm's, like 3500+ it drops hard. Do you guys think a new pump will fix it?
 
#10 · (Edited)
karl how much pressure were u making at idle? cause mine still makes like 68, and 65 cruising, just under wfo at high rpm's, like 3500+ it drops hard. Do you guys think a new pump will fix it?
My idle and cruise stayed the same at 60~64 psi with both pumps. But my WFO doesn't go below 50 psi.

When is the last time you did both filters and drained the pump? Also are you 100% your gauge is working correctly being plumbed into the test port?
I had never drained mine, and it showed. The Carter pump was silver and the OEM was goldish color. I don't know if the gold was from fuel saturation or being over heated, either way, my psi is where it should be and I'll be opening the water drain EVERY TIME that I change fuel filters. Also reading from the TEST port.
 
#8 ·
When is the last time you did both filters and drained the pump? Also are you 100% your gauge is working correctly being plumbed into the test port?
 
#9 ·
I changed all filters, also I cant think of a better place to measure fuel pressure then the TEST port...where do you have yours plumbed ?
 
#11 ·
I have 155/30's injects and with my new ford hfcm pump(i got from tousely) wth blue spring, pressure doesnt go below 62 psi WOT
 
#14 ·
Ok just checking on the filters....it sounds like it could be the pump. The reason I asked about the test port is because some folks believe the heat and vibration could cause the sensors to go bad. I don't really subscribe to that theory but always like to get more data from other folks.

And Karl ..... When I bought mine I did the filters and drained it and some nasty yellowish crap came out of mine too. I agree I will drain that every time I do filters no ifs ands or buts.

Todd
 
#16 ·
lets think here, why wouldn't every single sensor the motor uses fail from the heat and vibration? It's BS It wont kill the sensor. You can put that thing anywhere and it will be just fine, the main reason they move the sensor away, is because its a tight fit and it certainly can wear through the upper rad hose.
 
#17 ·
I have to agree. The GlowShift sending unit all but chaffed the upper radiator hose. However, the Auto Meter sending unit is more compact and doesn't touch the radiator hose.
 
#18 ·
I made a fuel pressure adapter from a hose and fitting s from a local store, so the sensor is right on the bowl anyways. Also it seems to read accurate when its idling. 68 psi. I just dont want to change the pump and have the same issue... How many miles did you have on yours when it got weak? I have 100k
 
#20 ·
How many miles did you have on yours when it got weak? I have 100k
I had about 104K when I noticed the low fuel psi issue.
 
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