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| 6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you? |
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Got my turbo today MTW hybrid
Well it just showed up on my door step and going to install towmorrow. Just wondering what tunes everybody is running on it and which ones seem to be doing the best. Adrian is one of those stand up guys that when you talk to on the phone you just have to listen to the knowledge he has.
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I would recommend either Vivian or Eric. Their tunes seem to run the best I think.
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Dang you! I'm still waiting for mine lol. Good luck with it. Let us know how you like it
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i'll post some reveiws this weekend on it. Just going to run stock tune for know to see what it does after a relearn. It does has the 10 blade turbine wheel on it. Just because I like the whistle I guess and the neighbors don't.
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Stock tune is a waste of time, you need the Street Perform Tune from Eric Innovative Diesel. Or Viv's Looney Street.
You'll feel a difference and notice a power increase with stock tune, BUT nothing like you'll see with a real Tune. D |
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Things to Know - That I've learned the hard way......
disconnect the lead on the alternator and tape it up really good also remember to tighten it or it will melt. A ratcheting box end wrench 9mm & 10mm will save you hours, with: intake snorkle ficm mount bolts (Silver) loosen FICM mount too 10mm The 2 or worse 3 back one being the bad one turbo mounting bolts (Don't put the back one in.) Both bolts are horizontal NOT the vertical pedestal bolts of same size going into the block. Be careful disconnecting the VGT sensor wire, it's gotten hot and is brittle. Loosen the Driver side Exhaust manifold to up pipe pipe 10mm & 12mm nuts top nut 10mm has to be held with wrench in akward position and it's close to the pipe so a box end won't work. Tighten the 2 10mm oil tube bolts or you'll have a bunch of oil running out making you think you forgot to connect the Turbo Drain pipe, which if done properly is impossible to connect with the y-pipe firmly attached to the manifold. Start both turbo mount bolts and wiggle the turbo while you start them or you'll never get them all the way in Tie up the wiring loom to the wiper arm so it stays out of your way. Will most likely have to tie wrap this back since the plastic push fittings are a 1 time thing, two at best. Plug the coolant line with a 12mm bolt it will leak uphill. A short handle ratchet will help tightening the clamp bolts point the y-pipe to the drivers side and the down pipe to the passenger side. Be especially sure the air intake is on the turbo flush and air cleaner and the hose clamps are Tight. Be sure the CAC Boots are on tight -use hairspray or clean well with carb or brake cleaner or they will BLOW Off and you will loose the clamp and they are 14.00 at the stealership. Lay a triple folded cardboard box on the engine to keep from scratching your belly, knees, arms and elbows. Hope this helps, it would've saved me ALOT of time. Denny |
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im running matts srl+...i think it runs better than the extreme race in my truck
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Don't understand removing FICM or loosening up pipe bolts.
If you put the turbo and y- pipe flange together with the turbo loose from the pedestal and clamp it then put the mounting bolts in pedestal, it will seal every time.
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Nothing like applying pressure and finally hearing it CLANK! into place. YMMV these are my findings. Denny |
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Quote:
![]() I've always gotten them to line up that way.
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