Got my turbo today MTW hybrid - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Got my turbo today MTW hybrid

Well it just showed up on my door step and going to install towmorrow. Just wondering what tunes everybody is running on it and which ones seem to be doing the best. Adrian is one of those stand up guys that when you talk to on the phone you just have to listen to the knowledge he has.

03 f-250
blue spring
4inch turbo back exhaust
egr delete
MTW HYBRID
SCT livewire
scan gauge w egt
zoodad mod
fuel press gauge
225,000 miles
155/stock holder diesel
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post #2 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 09:31 AM
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I would recommend either Vivian or Eric. Their tunes seem to run the best I think.

Nate
2006 F350 (BACKYARDIGAN) - 67mm Turbo, 215/85 injectors, WPE intake manifold, NB/Warren Trans, and more stuff that I don't care to mention....
2006 F250 (LITTLE DURTY) - WPE Manifold, Up-pipes, EGR delete kit, and Tuned By ME
BULLET PROOF DIESEL 1-888-967-6653
KC TUROS - Not just a modified Powermax...

WINDRUNNER PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING
WWW.WPEDIESEL.COM

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post #3 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 09:34 AM
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Dang you! I'm still waiting for mine lol. Good luck with it. Let us know how you like it

2006 F-350 CCSB Lariat
MBRP 4" Exhaust, ARPs, Barder Stage 2 turbo, S&B CAI, TSD SPD, Warren Competition transmission, Edge CTS, Coolant Filter, High Idle Mod, CCV Mod, Zoodad, Newton Leveling kit, Fuel Mavericks 20x9 , Pioneer DVD head-unit, JL Stealthbox and JL Slash 500/1v2 amp
Future Mods:
Injectors and Driven Diesel RR
-Alex
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post #4 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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i'll post some reveiws this weekend on it. Just going to run stock tune for know to see what it does after a relearn. It does has the 10 blade turbine wheel on it. Just because I like the whistle I guess and the neighbors don't.

03 f-250
blue spring
4inch turbo back exhaust
egr delete
MTW HYBRID
SCT livewire
scan gauge w egt
zoodad mod
fuel press gauge
225,000 miles
155/stock holder diesel
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post #5 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 10:44 AM
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Stock tune is a waste of time, you need the Street Perform Tune from Eric Innovative Diesel. Or Viv's Looney Street.

You'll feel a difference and notice a power increase with stock tune, BUT nothing like you'll see with a real Tune.

D

2005 CC SB 147K
MTW MaDmAx 68mm VGT
Warren Diesel 175/75's Super Spools N Drew's Tunes
VXCF9CA TQCI1NB
SCT A101706100004F6C
VIN FTSW21P65EB08535
ARP's - MBRP T-Back Kitty Del.
ICON 4.5" + 2" Spacer
Mickey T's Baja ATZ P3 37's
METHOD Racing Wheels 20x
ScanGauge II / RedHead Box
Snow Perf. Stg. II W/ Banks Intercooler
Bulletproof EGR Del. & External Filter
ELC Coolant & Sin. Coolant Filter
AMP Steps & ARE Cover W/ Bed Slide
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post #6 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 11:03 AM
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Things to Know - That I've learned the hard way......

disconnect the lead on the alternator and tape it up really good
also remember to tighten it or it will melt.

A ratcheting box end wrench 9mm & 10mm will save you hours, with:

intake snorkle ficm mount bolts (Silver) loosen FICM mount too 10mm

The 2 or worse 3 back one being the bad one turbo mounting bolts
(Don't put the back one in.) Both bolts are horizontal NOT the vertical pedestal bolts of same size going into the block.

Be careful disconnecting the VGT sensor wire, it's gotten hot and is brittle.

Loosen the Driver side Exhaust manifold to up pipe pipe 10mm & 12mm nuts top nut 10mm has to be held with wrench in akward position and it's close to the pipe so a box end won't work.

Tighten the 2 10mm oil tube bolts or you'll have a bunch of oil running out making you think you forgot to connect the Turbo Drain pipe, which if done properly is impossible to connect with the y-pipe firmly attached to the manifold.
Start both turbo mount bolts and wiggle the turbo while you start them or you'll never get them all the way in

Tie up the wiring loom to the wiper arm so it stays out of your way. Will most likely have to tie wrap this back since the plastic push fittings are a 1 time thing, two at best.

Plug the coolant line with a 12mm bolt it will leak uphill.

A short handle ratchet will help tightening the clamp bolts point the y-pipe to the drivers side and the down pipe to the passenger side.

Be especially sure the air intake is on the turbo flush and air cleaner and the hose clamps are Tight.

Be sure the CAC Boots are on tight -use hairspray or clean well with carb or brake cleaner or they will BLOW Off and you will loose the clamp and they are 14.00 at the stealership.

Lay a triple folded cardboard box on the engine to keep from scratching your belly, knees, arms and elbows.

Hope this helps, it would've saved me ALOT of time.

Denny

2005 CC SB 147K
MTW MaDmAx 68mm VGT
Warren Diesel 175/75's Super Spools N Drew's Tunes
VXCF9CA TQCI1NB
SCT A101706100004F6C
VIN FTSW21P65EB08535
ARP's - MBRP T-Back Kitty Del.
ICON 4.5" + 2" Spacer
Mickey T's Baja ATZ P3 37's
METHOD Racing Wheels 20x
ScanGauge II / RedHead Box
Snow Perf. Stg. II W/ Banks Intercooler
Bulletproof EGR Del. & External Filter
ELC Coolant & Sin. Coolant Filter
AMP Steps & ARE Cover W/ Bed Slide
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post #7 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 11:09 AM
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im running matts srl+...i think it runs better than the extreme race in my truck
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post #8 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 11:15 AM
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Don't understand removing FICM or loosening up pipe bolts. If you put the turbo and y- pipe flange together with the turbo loose from the pedestal and clamp it then put the mounting bolts in pedestal, it will seal every time.

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post #9 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhanna6powerstroke View Post
Don't understand removing FICM or loosening up pipe bolts.
Not remove the FICM, just loosen the funky metal mounting bracket so you can get the air tube bolts to line up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhanna6powerstroke View Post
If you put the turbo and y- pipe flange together with the turbo loose from the pedestal and clamp it then put the mounting bolts in pedestal, it will seal every time.
HA! Several have even gone so far -myself included to ratchet a strap to the y-pipe to get it perfectly flush, or it will leak.

Nothing like applying pressure and finally hearing it CLANK! into place.

YMMV these are my findings.

Denny

2005 CC SB 147K
MTW MaDmAx 68mm VGT
Warren Diesel 175/75's Super Spools N Drew's Tunes
VXCF9CA TQCI1NB
SCT A101706100004F6C
VIN FTSW21P65EB08535
ARP's - MBRP T-Back Kitty Del.
ICON 4.5" + 2" Spacer
Mickey T's Baja ATZ P3 37's
METHOD Racing Wheels 20x
ScanGauge II / RedHead Box
Snow Perf. Stg. II W/ Banks Intercooler
Bulletproof EGR Del. & External Filter
ELC Coolant & Sin. Coolant Filter
AMP Steps & ARE Cover W/ Bed Slide
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post #10 of 21 Old 12-14-2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colonel angus View Post
Not remove the FICM, just loosen the funky metal mounting bracket so you can get the air tube bolts to line up.



HA! Several have even gone so far -myself included to ratchet a strap to the y-pipe to get it perfectly flush, or it will leak.

Nothing like applying pressure and finally hearing it CLANK! into place.

YMMV these are my findings.

Denny
Ahh, understand FICM bracket. Obviously you're not crossing your eyes properly when connecting y-pipe. I've always gotten them to line up that way.

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