CCV Reroute: lesson learned (if you have white smoke, I know why) - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:49 AM
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CCV Reroute: lesson learned (if you have white smoke, I know why)

Disclosure: Doing this mod is something I did to my truck. I know this worked for my 2005, not sure if there are variations from year to year. I do not guarantee your truck will not spontaneously explode while driving it down the road after doing this mod

Parts needed about $50:

DO NOT buy the breather that is picture below (will cause massive white smoke out the tail pipe from pressuring the crankcase)
3 hose clamps
1 machined aluminum plug for intake hole ("lubbock guy" is a member on here that machines them)
new O-ring for CCV reservoir on valve cover (found mine at autoparts store in variety O-ring kit)
12 feet of 1" inside diameter clear hose from hardware store

Well I decided to the do the CCV reroute, which I highly recommend. I had an oil leak that dripped down from the rear of the passenger side valve cover that I couldn't find which turned out to be a bad CCV reservoir O-ring where the 90 degree fitting on the valve cover plugs in. There was oil everywhere, but I couldn't see it without the intake off. BTW, DO NOT install a breather on the end of the hose as I did initially (see pics with breather below, and DO NOT do that . It causes too much pressure in the crankcase which in turn makes your truck blow tons of white smoke out the tail pipe! The last pic is how I have it now: I installed the OEM 90 degree fitting (that was on the underside of the intake when I removed the stock routed CCV initially) on the end of the 1 inch tubing.

Steps to follow:

1)Remove the 2 sections of intake tubing closest to the turbo
-While removing the the section closest to the turbo, be careful not to damage the 2 90 degree fittings, you will use them again (1 that plugs into the underside of the intake section and the other 1 that plugs into the valve cover)

2)Remove both 90 degree fittings
-It seems the fitting on the valve cover will come off after rotating 90 degrees from the position it is mounted from the factory, careful not to lose the O-ring in the reservoir (mine was bad and had to be replaced, which i did from a auto-parts store variety O-ring kit)

3)Clean out intake sections and install the machined aluminum plug into the intake where the 90 degree fitting was (mine would not fit initially until i filed out the intake a hair) and install a hose clamp around the rubber piece holding the plug.

4)Reinstall the 1 90 degree fitting onto reservoir located on the valve cover with new or reused O-ring and face the opening toward the driver's side fender.

5) Route 12' of tubing from the reservoir fitting (but don't put on the end of fitting yet, just place it near it) across and underneath the brake fluid reservoir and down to the frame. Continue routing over the fuel lines and over the fuel/water separator housing. I ended mine with a dip in the tubing to see if oil will collect and them up towards the front of the fuel tank. This is all inside or around the driver's side frame rail. You will probably have to cut some excess tubing to route this tubing like i did.

6) Now install end of tubing and tighten hose clamp over the 90 degree fitting that comes out of the reservoir (opening facing driver's side fender). Make sure that the tubing is not putting pressure on that fitting to where the fitting can pop off or cause a leak. Also, when tightening the hose clamp over the hose on the fitting, make sure the hex head that tightens the clamp faces straight up and is oriented on the back side of the tubing so it will not rub on the stock intake tubing when reinstalled.

7) Make sure hose is routed without any kinks and interference with hot or moving parts.

8) Zip tie hose in place in various locations (not to moving or hot parts) starting from the fitting going down the frame (to ensure no pressure is placed on that fitting)

9) Route the end of the tubing in front of the fuel tank and cut according to fit.

10) Install the 90 degree fitting that was initially in the intake onto the end of the hose facing down and secure with hose clamp.

11) Reinstall both sections of intake tubing to the turbo and filter.

12) Start truck and ensure nothing is interfering with the new setup. DONE!

Here are some pics:























DON'T PUT THE BREATHER ON WHICH IS PICTURED BELOW!!!!!




Last edited by Invasivore; 11-09-2012 at 10:51 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:34 AM
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very nice set up. Mine is the EXACT same except I have the venturi on the end of mine where you have a breather
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEVERO2 View Post
very nice set up. Mine is the EXACT same except I have the venturi on the end of mine where you have a breather
DO NOT put the breather on, lol. I disclosed that in my write up in case anyone else had that idea. That was my initial setup which caused massive white smoke out the tail pipe from pressuring the Crankcase.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:47 AM
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Oops I missed that. My bad
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEVERO2 View Post
Oops I missed that. My bad
BTW, i stole your idea of using the Home Depot 1 inch hose
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invasivore View Post
BTW, i stole your idea of using the Home Depot 1 inch hose
Actually you stole something that had already been stolen I stole it from another board member. that is what we are here for right?
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:12 AM
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Looks exactly like my setup except I didn't put nothing on the end of the hose..
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:25 PM
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same on my o3 also but I put a 2in pvc pipe with caps and filter material inside and a drain on it
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:47 PM
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Do not loop your hose up like that on the end or anywhere along the run back. You must keep it on a down angle all the way. A loop with a low section like you have at the end will eventually fill with oil and block the hose off. Then you know what happens.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:32 AM
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White smoke all the time or just on start-up?

A little clarity please.

D
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