Exhaust manifold bolts - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #11 of 33 Old 11-05-2012, 05:22 PM
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It's stainless nuts man....

Those are expensive

2005 F250 King Ranch Work Truck.

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post #12 of 33 Old 11-05-2012, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windrunner408 View Post
Well I found my old exhaust manifold bolts and I checked them with a tap and the threads matched M8x1.25 and when I mic'd the with a pair of calipers, I got 7.91mm. Hope this helps.
yep, that's right. We run a tap down every hole, 8x1.25 is is, for sure.

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Originally Posted by JUGERNAUT View Post
yep there 8mm 1.25 bacause the torque spec in book matches a 8mm bolt
Yep again.

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Originally Posted by PGreenSVT View Post
The only metric stainless studs ARP makes are 8mm x 1.25 so I guess that's it. $154.74 for 16 studs and nuts. WTF is up with that?
Honestly mitch, I wouldn't waste the money. We see a ton of these heads come back with stripped out bolt holes in the exhaust. I don't know if it's people fighting with the manifolds taking them off or putting them on in the truck, and f-ing the threads all up in the process, or if people are over torqueing them, or what, but The 8x1.25 bolts themselves just wont take that much torque.

Are your heads off now? If so, drill and tap them out to a 10x1.5, that'll hold plenty fine, and probably will still work in the steed manifolds without having to drill them out, the pics look like they have a plenty big enough hole for the bolts, I know the stock ones have a huge bolt hole, even if you had to run a 3/8" drill bit down the steed manifold bolt holes you'd be fine. If your heads are on, you could maybe still do it if you can get a drill and tap in there. I'll probably be doing it to mine just because when I have it apart, hopefully a long time from now. Then again, 10mm and 3/8 are so close, you could probably just tap the exh bolt holes in the heads to 3/8 and the arp bolts/studs would probably be way cheaper for standard thread. Don't forget to use anti-seize...also, perhaps stage 8 locking fasteners has something that would work...just thinking outloud. I'd seriously consider moving up a size in bolts though, 8mm is nothing (almost the same as 5/16).


EDIT: there's plenty of meat there in the heads too, you don't have to worry about going into the water jacket if you do it right...drill it and tap it nice and straight, obvously easier said than done in the truck. just don't go much deeper than the stock bolt holes are, I want to say they're about .900" deep or so, I could be wrong on that, I can double check tomorrow.



2005 F-250 Harley Davidson Edition

Warren 205/75 Injectors
KC Turbo 71mm VGT
Twisted Diesel Level 3 Transmission/PI Converter
AFE Intercooler/Flexalite Fans/Mishimoto Radiator
Icon 4 Link, 37" Nitto's
SSBC 6 piston calipers
Yukon 4.30's, Detroit Locker


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http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ine-6-0-a.html

Last edited by Gearhead2012; 11-05-2012 at 07:08 PM.
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post #13 of 33 Old 11-05-2012, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Not looking for massive torque on them, I just want to go to stainless studs instead of bolts, and something that won't rust up. I can always use some locktite if I'm worried about them backing off.

No the heads are still on the truck, it's already studded and I have no plans to pull them off until I have to. No intention of trying to drill and tap them on the truck either. Been there, done that, got the coolant in the arm pit for my trouble.

Bulletproof Diesel sells a set of Titanium bolts but again I want to use studs and they are $159.xx as well. If I ever take the heads off again I'll step them up to 10mm x 1.5 at that time.
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post #14 of 33 Old 11-06-2012, 04:56 AM
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thats only 10 dollars per stud, if i had to make some stainless steel studs on my lathe, they would be pretty close in price.

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Originally Posted by PGreenSVT View Post
The only metric stainless studs ARP makes are 8mm x 1.25 so I guess that's it. $154.74 for 16 studs and nuts. WTF is up with that?
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post #15 of 33 Old 11-06-2012, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGreenSVT View Post
Not looking for massive torque on them, I just want to go to stainless studs instead of bolts, and something that won't rust up. I can always use some locktite if I'm worried about them backing off.

No the heads are still on the truck, it's already studded and I have no plans to pull them off until I have to. No intention of trying to drill and tap them on the truck either. Been there, done that, got the coolant in the arm pit for my trouble.

Bulletproof Diesel sells a set of Titanium bolts but again I want to use studs and they are $159.xx as well. If I ever take the heads off again I'll step them up to 10mm x 1.5 at that time.
I'm going to get the Titanium bolts from BPD, but was going to hold off until I got the upgraded exhaust manifolds like yours... I was hoping you would give me some good advice about how well they work...

Shawn Carlson
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2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
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SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
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Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
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BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
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post #16 of 33 Old 11-06-2012, 06:38 AM
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I'll probably get slammed for this one but oh well but I would just go to ACE Hardware and get some Stainless Steel M8x1.25 socket cap bolts and put em in there. I am pretty sure that they will take 23ft-lbs of torque and will cost less than $2 a piece. JMO though.

Nate
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post #17 of 33 Old 11-06-2012, 07:33 AM
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Is not so much the bolts won't take it, but studs for the same reason as head studs would be his driving force I supose. If he loctighted them in place, he'd probably be ok, he won't be taking them in and out a bunch with studs in place. Trouble is the threads in the head fatigue, and then pull out/strip. That's onoy reason I mentioned bigger bolts, which woukd also mean new threads, but not if the heads will be staying on the truck. Studs should do just fine, stainless or not. Once they're in place, it'd be really hard to pull the entire stud out, and you could probably go with even slightly higher torque on them. I'd be a little surprised if fastenall didn't have any stainless 8mm studs/nuts. I personally wouldnt worry about 'cold rolled, centerless ground' blah blah blah high tensile strength studs because as mentioned the threads in the heads won't hold that much more torque than a regular 8 mm bolt would allow. Just thinking out loud.



2005 F-250 Harley Davidson Edition

Warren 205/75 Injectors
KC Turbo 71mm VGT
Twisted Diesel Level 3 Transmission/PI Converter
AFE Intercooler/Flexalite Fans/Mishimoto Radiator
Icon 4 Link, 37" Nitto's
SSBC 6 piston calipers
Yukon 4.30's, Detroit Locker


Machining the 6.0:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ine-6-0-a.html
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post #18 of 33 Old 11-06-2012, 11:01 AM
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I'd be more worried about them backing out (which is the current problem I have) OR breaking off, which others have reported.

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #19 of 33 Old 11-06-2012, 11:47 AM
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drill a safety wire hole in a stud of bolt and run some safety wire, they could still come loose, but not off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Eye View Post
I'd be more worried about them backing out (which is the current problem I have) OR breaking off, which others have reported.
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post #20 of 33 Old 11-06-2012, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Eye View Post
I'd be more worried about them backing out (which is the current problem I have) OR breaking off, which others have reported.
A dab of blue Loctite out to hold them. Red Loctite surely will, but I'd be concerned when taking them out as you have to heat them with the red. I plan to use the Red on the stud into the head, and a dab of blue for the nuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lubbock guy View Post
drill a safety wire hole in a stud of bolt and run some safety wire, they could still come loose, but not off.
ARP make header bolts already drilled and so does BDP with the titanium bolts.


Nate, you are not going to get slammed by me for that suggestion. It was a real good one. I'll have to consider the price there. Fastenal and Mcmaster Carr are also possibilities.
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