Coolant swap- chemical flush if OCT/EOT delta is minimal? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 07-25-2012, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant swap- chemical flush if OCT/EOT delta is minimal?

Okay-

my oil and coolant temps never stray more than 5* as things are right now with the factory coolant in there.... SO, moving forward-

Why not drain the system, and flush a couple times w/water, then go back with ELC and a coolant filter? It would seem that chemical flushes seem to always end up dislodging tons of crap and clogging coolers. Is this necessary? Tell me what I'm missing.

Greg
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post #2 of 17 Old 07-25-2012, 04:58 PM
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Exactly what I did to mine. If anything, the eot/ect delta dropped by a degree or two. No signs of any issues, very happy with the way it all ended up. Many others have had success with this method, and I have never heard of any problem developing as a result. Can't say the same for the aggressive chemical flush approach. A couple threads:

Coolant flush question

Really Confused on Engine Flushing
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post #3 of 17 Old 07-25-2012, 06:47 PM
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I done the aggresive chemical approach! I flushed and flushed and flushed before new oil cooler and swap tp ELC! I have to backflush about once a week to keep deltas in check! I have a filter on and it is catching tons of stuff! So i just reverse flush once a week and change the filter after 500 miles!

I would just flush it with tap water till it came clear then flush it with distilled about 4 times, then fill back with ELC!

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post #4 of 17 Old 07-25-2012, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy650 View Post

I would just flush it with tap water till it came clear then flush it with distilled about 4 times, then fill back with ELC!
THIS!

Just be sure to flush via the lower rad hose and if you can drain the block plugs at a minimum the drivers side.

D
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post #5 of 17 Old 07-25-2012, 07:33 PM
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Fumoto valves in the block drains makes this all much easier. F-108N, and about 2' of 3/8" diameter hose. Not really necessary on the driver's side, but pulling the starter once is plenty for me.

I removed the thermostat and ran 20+ gal. of distilled through it, running the engine for 5-10 minutes to circulate, then drain and repeat. Would have used the hose first but didn't have enough buckets. It was surprising, at every drain, how much darker the first part out of the block drains was compared to the later part. There really appears to be very little flow and mixing in the bottom part of the cylinder jackets. In my opinion getting the block rinsed out well, along with everything else, is much more important than worrying about chemical flushing agents. These have a place and a purpose, but (again IMO) are best reserved for extreme cases where they are really needed - and are NOT necessary for a straightforward G-05 to EC-1 switch.
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post #6 of 17 Old 07-26-2012, 02:09 AM
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I am in the same boat.
My truck has had a coolant filter on for two years, my deltas are less than 5-7*.
So I think I will just water flush it this fall and add EC-1.

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post #7 of 17 Old 07-26-2012, 02:51 AM
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The reason for the chemical flush is to prepare the engine for the ELC which has a chemical make up that is different from the G-05. These coolants coat the internal parts with a boundry layer to protect internal parts from cavitation damage. The ELC needs to build its own boundry layer. The chemical flush removes the G-05 layer and prepares the internal surfaces for the new ELC layer. Just doing a water flush does nothing about the boundry layer so the ELC must eat away at the G-05 layer before it can build up its own layer. That G-05 contaminates the ELC compromising its useful life span so be prepared to flush the ELC again in a couple of years and add fresh coolant. Also if flushing with tap water it takes 24 gals of distilled water to bring the tap water concentration down below 1.5%.
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post #8 of 17 Old 07-26-2012, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Ah. I get the ELC gratis so changing it out after a year or so isn't so bad for me. Apparently the dreaded silicate deposits are what the flush chemicals purge out of the system, and by doing so what happens over a period of time to the oil cooler...happens real fast. The IPR remote oil cooler keeps looking better and better...

Something in the tap water the coolant additive package can't inhibit? Concerns about minerals, scale, that sort of thing?
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post #9 of 17 Old 07-26-2012, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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post #10 of 17 Old 07-26-2012, 06:59 AM
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I'm new here to the 6.0 I see hundreds of 3 letter acronyms and get lost fast in these threads. My new truck has had the "bullet proof" kit installed at Diesel Tech. They still use the Ford Gold coolant. What's the stuff I should be using? I am considering a flush and coolant change. Not sure about the chemical flush... Thx


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