Y-Pipe to Turbo How too ????? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Y-Pipe to Turbo How too ?????

Got a leaking Connection, cleaned it up applied anti-seize started the 2 bolts, got the flanges almost touching, cinched it down put it all back together and it blows smoke.

If i go the other route, mount the Turbo to the Y-Pipe I can't get the front bolt started and fear it will cross thread.

Went to loosen the exhaust pipe bolts and they just spin, If I can only get the exhaust off the drivers side would that be enough to get the front bolts started with turbo almost snugged up?

I don't know what else to do at this point is there any secrets?

D

Last edited by colonel angus; 06-19-2012 at 05:34 PM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 05:36 PM
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Have you tried loosening the header to y-pipe connections that's how I do mine and I never have had a issue.
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 05:41 PM
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Here is one way to do it.
Oil cooler and EGR cooler service PDF files and notes


I like to have the exhaust manifold to y-pipe/up-pipes bolts loose hand started, then hand start loose turbo to pedestal bolts, then line up the turbo to y-pipe with a good even seal and tighten the mormon clamp. Then I go and tighten down the exhaust manifold connection, and finally tighten down the turbo to pedestal.

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post #4 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I'll give these a try before i decide to sell the freaking thing.

D
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 06:22 PM
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I get the turbo bolted in and then use a rachet strap from the passenger side head light hole and put the other end down between the two pipe. add some tension to the strap and then use a pry bar if needed and less than 5 mins it all done and tighted up...

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post #6 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by U235a4 View Post
I get the turbo bolted in and then use a rachet strap from the passenger side head light hole and put the other end down between the two pipe. add some tension to the strap and then use a pry bar if needed and less than 5 mins it all done and tighted up...
Can this be done without taking it all out again? just loosen everything up as is? So your basically snugging it up tight to the turbo verifying the flange seats inside the turbo flange before sliding the clamp on huh.

May give this a try tomorrow nite.

Thx,

d
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by U235a4 View Post
I get the turbo bolted in and then use a rachet strap from the passenger side head light hole and put the other end down between the two pipe. add some tension to the strap and then use a pry bar if needed and less than 5 mins it all done and tighted up...
this doesn't sound like a good idea to me, since the y-pipe flex joints are already notorious for leaking, putting them in a bind like that is asking for trouble

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post #8 of 16 Old 06-19-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Beef52751 View Post
this doesn't sound like a good idea to me, since the y-pipe flex joints are already notorious for leaking, putting them in a bind like that is asking for trouble
Yes if the gap is really bad I wouldn't do this but since mine is within 1/4" it's worked fine the last 25k with out issue. and I've had the turbo in and out a couple times.

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post #9 of 16 Old 06-20-2012, 02:48 AM
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I've never had to loosen the Y to exhaust bolts. I have always just left the turbo to pedestal bolts loose and put the clamp on the go back and tighten the turbo/pedestal bolts. I've had my turbo in and out a number of times and no problem.
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-20-2012, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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The frustrating part is i can make it touch almost flush maybe stands off 1/16" by itself, off a little to the drivers side about the width of the flange maybe 1/8" and can clamp the snot out of it and it will blow soot all the way around it like a Train stack.

Could the clamp be out of spec and no longer forcing the 2 halves together?


Denny
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