ARP Head Studs? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:25 AM
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ARP Head Studs?

Ok so as much as I dont want to (because of lack of money) I'm seriously starting to consider making the moves to bullet proof my 6.0

And something I see EVERYONE running like hear having them is a must are these ARP Head Studs!

What I want to know is how much are yall paying for these? I hear they are crazy expensive but I've seen a couple different packages for different prices and I dont know which ones are the best or whatever

And if yall can tell me where your getting them that would also be great and save me time!!

thanks
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:33 AM
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My dealer put mine in and charged in the neighborhood of $800 for the studs, I was not in a position to shop around. I've seen them as low as $450 on the web.

I don't consider studs a must until, 1) you decide you are going to tune the truck [even then there are plenty of members who aren't running studs with tunes]. 2) you are tearing down to that level anyway, and you'd be foolish to reinstall the heads using the stock TYY bolts.

What packages are you referring to? Just studs should all be about the same, studs plus parts, is another matter.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:33 AM
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Around $500 for the set for the 6.0L is about right. Just make sure when you do the studs to have the machine work on the heads done...
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:41 AM
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Call brownsdiesel.com beats everyone on studs. And I mean Everyone.

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colo_dually View Post
My dealer put mine in and charged in the neighborhood of $800 for the studs, I was not in a position to shop around. I've seen them as low as $450 on the web.

I don't consider studs a must until, 1) you decide you are going to tune the truck [even then there are plenty of members who aren't running studs with tunes]. 2) you are tearing down to that level anyway, and you'd be foolish to reinstall the heads using the stock TYY bolts.

What packages are you referring to? Just studs should all be about the same, studs plus parts, is another matter.
ok well I had just heard that these are kind of a must when it comes to bullet proofing due to lots of failures. and I guess I will have a tune done soon (the Atlas 40 FICM from PHP) and what do you mean by "tearing down" to that level?

and packages I think was some had the bolts PLUS parts and I just wasnt sure if I needed the extra stuff
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06DieforDiesel View Post
ok well I had just heard that these are kind of a must when it comes to bullet proofing due to lots of failures. and I guess I will have a tune done soon (the Atlas 40 FICM from PHP) and what do you mean by "tearing down" to that level?

and packages I think was some had the bolts PLUS parts and I just wasnt sure if I needed the extra stuff
I'll post a thread that I think would be a great help to you:
Write Up: Bullet-Proofing the 6.0L PSD.

My tearing down reference, is the first time the heads are coming off the truck in support of any maintenance, the studs should be going in. Right after you have the heads thoroughly checked over by a machine shop, and the block pressure tested. If the heads or block are bad, you have more work ahead of you.

Go through the thread I posted, there is a ton of good info on this sort of project. Most of those kits I've seen have one or two things that I wouldn't install, and would take another route with. Look it over, learn everything you can, and come up with a plan that works for you and your trucks goals. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:56 AM
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I'll tell ya. What I would do is I would first determine that your head gaskets are leaking before you go and pull the heads off the block because they are probably just fine right now.

Now what you could do is you get the studs (cost around $400 give or take a few) and just do the one at a time method to help ensure you dont have any problems down the road if/when you decide to tune your truck. So while they arent a must, I think doing a one stud at a time approach is a very cost effective way to give some piece of mind. I would also delete the EGR system as long as you dont have emissions testing and check to make sure your oil cooler isnt plugged as a failure of those is what most often leads to blown headgaskets. JMO.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:11 AM
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to Colo_Dually thanks alot. I'll defianetly be reading over that thread!!

And I do like the idea of replacing one at a time too. fingers crossed but as of right now I'm not having any problems (my trucks prolly blowing up in my driveway as I say that) but its something your always gonna be concerned about.

And another thing is my truck will be tuned soon. getting an FICM tune from PHP.

also trust me the EGR delete is coming soon....very soon in fact!!

but to the oil cooler being plugged up or not, how would I check that my self?
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:24 AM
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You can check the differences in temp between your engine oil and coolant. If you have more than a 15F spread at normal operating temp at like 55mph cruising, then it is probably plugged. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windrunner408 View Post
You can check the differences in temp between your engine oil and coolant. If you have more than a 15F spread at normal operating temp at like 55mph cruising, then it is probably plugged. Hope this helps.
ohh ok I got ya. well mine are almost the exact same in temp so I'm guessing I'm ok. and I know I know wrong thread but both of yall seem to know a crazy amount about these vehicles and engines so I figured I'd ask while I got both of yall to help

I really wanna do the EGR DELETE, but I dont wanna spend another 400+ dollars on a tuner esp because of all the other stuff I need to do first (Head studs, oil cooler etc) so would it be an ok choice to go ahead and do the Bulletproof EGR Cooler instead?
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