One for One or full cab off? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 11 Old 02-23-2012, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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One for One or full cab off?

Alright guys I need some help deciding what i should do, i got a 06 f-360 6.0l with 84,000 on her and i want ot do head studs, i got a quote from one shop for $1700 to do one for one head stud replacement with a egr delete. Then i got another quote for 4800.00 to do full cab off with egr delete. what should i do??

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post #2 of 11 Old 02-23-2012, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by blacksmoke89 View Post
Alright guys I need some help deciding what i should do, i got a 06 f-360 6.0l with 84,000 on her and i want ot do head studs, i got a quote from one shop for $1700 to do one for one head stud replacement with a egr delete. Then i got another quote for 4800.00 to do full cab off with egr delete. what should i do??
You could do it one at a time. It leaves you with questions about your head. Are they warped? Are they cracked etc.. I would suggest doing it right the first time and not having to do it again lol.

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post #3 of 11 Old 02-23-2012, 09:07 AM
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Take heads off machine them replaces both gaskets w/ OEM head gaskets and install ARP head studs.

do this work with CAB ON!!!

This requires a new quote, or do it yourself

2005 F250 King Ranch Work Truck.

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post #4 of 11 Old 02-23-2012, 03:13 PM
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id do it with the cab off! much easier to do and less strain on the ol back!! thats the only way i do them. im not downing the guys that do it cab on at all i just dont have the balls to do it with the cab on because of how stressful it can be. to answer the question though do it right and pull the heads off


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post #5 of 11 Old 02-23-2012, 08:18 PM
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I don't see how shops say they can do a one for one change out when there is a head bolt that must come out with the head. The stud is slid into that head when it goes back on. Maybe they are pounding on the firewall to get the clearance. Either way, it seems pretty extreme measure to stud it if you don't have an existing head gasket issue. If it's not broke, why fix it?

I have 93K on mine and I'm not studding it until it pushes a gasket.

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post #6 of 11 Old 02-24-2012, 06:58 AM
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I don't see how shops say they can do a one for one change out when there is a head bolt that must come out with the head. The stud is slid into that head when it goes back on. Maybe they are pounding on the firewall to get the clearance. Either way, it seems pretty extreme measure to stud it if you don't have an existing head gasket issue. If it's not broke, why fix it?I have 93K on mine and I'm not studding it until it pushes a gasket.
Exactly! There is no reason to replace the stock head bolts with studs if you have not already blown a head gasket, unless you want to make lots of power. In that case, you should pull the heads and have them machined and ported while you're at it. IF the motor is healthy and you don't run big tunes, your stock headbolts will hold up just fine. The only reason everyone puts studs in after a head gasket blows is becasue if you gotta pull the heads off anyway, you might as well upgrade.

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Compounds FTW!!!
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-24-2012, 07:47 AM
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why not add some torque to the stock head studs, say 3-5 more foot pounds? since thats what lets the head lift off the block to cause the head gasket problem...

just a thought
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-24-2012, 09:43 AM
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Exactly! There is no reason to replace the stock head bolts with studs if you have not already blown a head gasket, unless you want to make lots of power. In that case, you should pull the heads and have them machined and ported while you're at it. IF the motor is healthy and you don't run big tunes, your stock headbolts will hold up just fine. The only reason everyone puts studs in after a head gasket blows is becasue if you gotta pull the heads off anyway, you might as well upgrade.
What would you define as "big tunes"? I ran Edge on Extreme and Hot Unlock for years, Xtreme Race from IDP as a daily driver for a little while, and now SRL from Gear Head as a daily driver. However, Edge detuned when cold and now I don't hit the loud pedal unless it is up to temp.

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why not add some torque to the stock head studs, say 3-5 more foot pounds? since thats what lets the head lift off the block to cause the head gasket problem...

just a thought
These are "Torque to yeild" bolts, one time use, as in they stretch, adding more torque would most likely induce failure of the head gasket and/or the bolts.

Before tuning, HAVE GAUGES, after tuning, DON'T hit the loud pedal before it is at operating temperature.

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post #9 of 11 Old 02-24-2012, 09:53 AM
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I guess I am meaning like that "stacking chips" crap that some people used to do, and running tunes written for studs if you aren't studded, like SRL+ or SRL Estreme, etc. I assume you are monitoring your engine and maintain it well since it is holding up.

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Compounds FTW!!!
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-24-2012, 09:59 AM
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Stacked programmers/tuners! That sounded stupid when it was the "in" thing to do. That is EXACTLY why I won't use my Edge for JUST a monitor like some guys do when their Edge power adder poops. It seems too easy for the Edge and SCT to gang up on my truck and beat it down!

The Inisght is MADE to be just a monitor, pls don't confuse that with what I am saying here.

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Barefoot Accelerator Pedal
TRICO Force wiper blades
Yellow Military Aircraft Valve Stem Caps
Offensive "Stick Family" Decal
Big Ol'Honkin 1 1/4" Shank Receiver Hitch


WHAT!?! I was trying to list stuff that everyone else
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