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6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Question educated advice

I recently bought my first psd. Its a '03 6.0 . Since its fully stock I definitely need to wake it up. I've done some homework and I believe I have an idea of the necessities for the job but some educated advice is always welcome. First off im looking at an afe stage 2 air intake. Next im wanting to do a turbo back exhaust swap. Im looking to go with a 5" offload system but im getting mixed messages on weather I can go with a 4" downpipe or some say I have to stay with the factory 3.5". Next issue is chips and tuners. No 2 people can seem to agree on which is the best bang for the buck.and then im also unsure of the necessity of turbo upgrade and waste gates. I am also doing an egr delete(they seem to be problematic for the 6.0) let the schooling begin!

'03 f250 crew cab short box fx4 6.0
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post #2 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 09:08 AM
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Well, I'll be the first to say it: Get some gauges to figure out where you are first before trying to hop it up. There are a several things to watch out for and several running upgrades made over the years. You probably want to think about addressing these before turning up the power.

Get a Edge Insight or some mechanical gauges to get a look at temps & pressures first. It can save you trouble later.

-Hemicbx

2005 F350 CCLB Dually 4x4 Lariat 6.0L

Fixes:
Coolant flushed & DieselSite coolant filter
Blue spring
New OC & STC upgrade
Turbo lube tubes upgraded
Insight CS
BPD EGR Cooler
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post #3 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 09:09 AM
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1st: Keep the OE air filter setup! Unless you were running high HP then the stock air filter is more than adequate.

2nd: Invest in a good data monitor. Something like the Scangauge- ScanGauge - Trip Computer + Digitial Gauges + ScanTools or the Edge Insight CTS

3rd: Once you have the data monitor see what kind of shape the engine is in (oil temp, ICP pressure, FICM voltage, etc) then you can start doing some upgrades.

On a side note I like the MBRP exhaust systems. They seem to have the best sound and the best fitment.
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post #4 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 09:11 AM
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The consensus seems to be to NOT change the air intake, the stock being good to ~500 hp and much better at filtration than aftermarket ones. Don't really know about exhaust, other than it seems to be a personal preference thing. Tuners there is a pretty strong consensus on SCT with custom tunes. Other things to go with (more for reliability than anything else) are: full set of gauges (ScanGauge works great for anything that is output over OBDII, especially the all important EOT vs ECT differential, fuel pressure and EGT needing sensors so separate gauges for those), coolant filter, switch to a CAT EC-1 rated extended life coolant after a coolant system flush using Restore and Restore+, upgraded fuel pressure regulator spring, and religious maintenance using only motorcraft filters. ...that'll get you started anyway! Make sure you check your EOT vs ECT differential before doing too many mods, any higher than 15F difference when fully warmed up running at 65 on a flat road for 5-10 minutes means your oil cooler is clogging up and needs to be replaced.
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post #5 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 09:55 AM
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You'll need to do some more homework.

As already mentioned, a monitor solution first. Most go with either a Edge Insight CS/CTS or ScangaugeII. You will need to find out the health of your motor before you go wasting money on go fast parts, when you could of spent that money on preventing 6.0 issues.

This link will get you started.
Things to consider about owning a 6.0L


After you have the monitor solution, and have fixed any issues that you find, then you can start adding the go fast parts.

No need for an aftermarket CAI, the stock filter will support up to 500hp and will out filter any aftermarket CAI. Allowing dirt/dust into the turbo can and will destroy it.

Exhaust comes down to personal preference and bank account.

With the 6.0, SCT with custom tunes is the proven programmer. Enough said.

The 6.0 don't have a wastegate, it's a VGT (variable geometry turbo).

Here is the coffee table books, read up on the 6.0 and VGT so you'll know what and where parts are located.
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-08.php

2004 F350 CC DRW King Ranch
X-3 tunes by DJ'S,QT,GH,ID. Gryphon FICM tunes, ARP studs,Stage 1turbo,ATS coolant recirc lines,Swamp's 48v ficm,coolant filter,AD2,Snow Perf stage II,EGR delete,4" turbo back straight pipe,S&Bintake,Quad "A" pillar autometer gauges,Suncoast Tri Disk Conv.,Billet input shaft,Suncoast superduty rebuild kit,Trans-go shift kit,Mag-Hytec trans pan,CFM+ elbow,ccv mod,15K reese 5er,17" LCD TV/DVD,Cobra 29 Nitewatch CB
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post #6 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. I believe I will invest in some guages and a monitor first, then go from there. On a side note, any recommendations on what oil to use?

'03 f250 crew cab short box fx4 6.0
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post #7 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 10:01 AM
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Since it's all stock, I'll reccommend the same things that were suggested to me. Get the monitoring done, whether it's mechanical guages, scanguage or the Edge CS or CTS. I have the Edge CTS- it is a terrific monitoring system. Check the difference in Engine Coolant Temp and Engine Oil Temp. Check this after the engine is fully warmed up and what was told to me, while going down the road around 60 or so. If the difference in temps is over 10*, Flush the cooling system. There are several threads on doing this. Personally, I'd flush it and then watch it and think about changing the oil cooler. After having mine rupture, I wish I had changed it BEFORE it ruptured. It's much costlier to fix after it ruptures and clogs everything in your cooling system. Then, GET RID OF THE EGR!! That thing is sort of the root of all evil on our engines. I know it seems rediculous to have to do all of this before you do performance mods, but it's necessary. My truck is a beast now, BUT that's after 5 grand of "fixing". As for exhaust, I love my Diamond Eye 5 inch. I used the 4 inch downpipe and didn't lose any power that I could tell... Hope this helps!! Preston

2005 F-250 Lariat FX4 CC SB
Sinister EGR Delete
Diamond Eye 5" Turbo Back Straight
OEM Gaskets and ARP Studs...
SCT X3 (Quick-Tricks tuning)
S&B Intake
Edge CTS
Full Syn 15w-40
High idle mod
PMM Coolant Filter
Rebuilt FICM with Atlas 40

2006 F-350 XL RC/Flat Bed
EGR Delete
SCT SF3 (stays on tow agg)
FARM TRUCK


Diesel spark plugs are the bestest spark plugs....
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post #8 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel dummy w900 View Post
Thanks for the input. I believe I will invest in some guages and a monitor first, then go from there. On a side note, any recommendations on what oil to use?
Switch to a diesel synthetic 5w40, the 6.0 and it's injectors like it. As far as what brand name oil, that's like talking politics or religion!! LOL, I use Rottella.


It's also wise to stick with motorcraft or racor oil and fuel filters.

2004 F350 CC DRW King Ranch
X-3 tunes by DJ'S,QT,GH,ID. Gryphon FICM tunes, ARP studs,Stage 1turbo,ATS coolant recirc lines,Swamp's 48v ficm,coolant filter,AD2,Snow Perf stage II,EGR delete,4" turbo back straight pipe,S&Bintake,Quad "A" pillar autometer gauges,Suncoast Tri Disk Conv.,Billet input shaft,Suncoast superduty rebuild kit,Trans-go shift kit,Mag-Hytec trans pan,CFM+ elbow,ccv mod,15K reese 5er,17" LCD TV/DVD,Cobra 29 Nitewatch CB
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post #9 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 11:02 AM
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1st-Gauges, 2nd-MBRP turbo back cat delete(if legal in your state), 3rd-SCT Tuner with custom tunes, 4th-EGR delete. After that you will see changes and can then decide on the remaining upgrades....Steve


2012 F-250 6.7 CCSB
Spartan war hammer, wicked wheel II, S&B intake, 4" flow pro w/dual mufflers, rigid dually's, IPad in dash, JL stealth box under rear seat, Hertz HSK 165 front and rear, JL 450/4, 500/1, line x, roll x tonneau, Titan Tank, and coming soon 6" lift, American force 22x11 Recon SS wrapped in 37's.
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post #10 of 22 Old 12-30-2011, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilpooh View Post
Switch to a diesel synthetic 5w40, the 6.0 and it's injectors like it. As far as what brand name oil, that's like talking politics or religion!! LOL, I use Rottella.


It's also wise to stick with motorcraft or racor oil and fuel filters.
Lol I might be starting a sticky subject but I was told that rotella was known for causing oil cooler damage. The only reason I say that is because that's what I use in my semi and thought it would make my life easier. Second question... if this truck has been run on dinosaur oil for the last 100,000 miles and I switch to synthetic wont I be inviting oil leaks to develop and tatoo my drive way?

'03 f250 crew cab short box fx4 6.0
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