Anybody install the DP Tuner/Driven Diesel RR fuel system? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody install the DP Tuner/Driven Diesel RR fuel system?

After looking deeper into putting a system together for my self, and seeing what "pre-made" kits were out there, theirs seems the most thought out, AND reasonably priced.

I tried to contact different companies to see if they would sell their hard stainless tubes/lines for the rear of the heads, and no one will sell them alone. I see this as a must, to have the heat resistance being mere inches from the exhaust system. If I had a set of stainless lines for the rear, the rest of it would be easy to fabricate.

I think Im gonna pull the trigger on this setup this week. Start with this, then after Xmas go and get a sump, Aeromotive fuel pump, and a dual Racor setup.

S362 68/.91
Irate SS T4
Holders 175/30
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
NL CAI
Rudy's Intake elbow
Mishimoto Rad. & IC pipes
EGR Del.
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tune
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
35x18's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
DC Power
Powerstops

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post #2 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 05:04 PM
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I used the ITP/driven/strictly diesel RR kit and it is a very HIGH quality kit. However, if I were you I would wait until you can do the whole fuel system at once because that way you can delete the factory fuel bowl and actually buidl everything at once and dont need to needlessly spend money on the RR kit.

Nate
2006 F350 (BACKYARDIGAN) - 67mm Turbo, 215/85 injectors, WPE intake manifold, NB/Warren Trans, and more stuff that I don't care to mention....
2006 F250 (LITTLE DURTY) - WPE Manifold, Up-pipes, EGR delete kit, and Tuned By ME
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Technically speaking, there really is no need to bypass the factory fuel bowl, right?

Once you delete the crappy stock regulator, add in return lines from the rear of the head, the fuel bowl basically becomes a "tree" for all the fuel lines. And it never hurts to have the extra filter.

If you have a kit like this, then add an Aeromotive pump with external filtration, a sump in the tank, a new feed line from the pump, the only thing left stock is the return line. Or am I missing something?

S362 68/.91
Irate SS T4
Holders 175/30
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
NL CAI
Rudy's Intake elbow
Mishimoto Rad. & IC pipes
EGR Del.
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tune
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
35x18's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
DC Power
Powerstops

USCG 50GT MMC
Yamaha Outboard Master Tech
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 05:37 PM
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No you are not missing anything. Everything is exactly as you described and if you wanted to you could just pull the filter out the bowl and use the bowl as you described, a tree.

Nate
2006 F350 (BACKYARDIGAN) - 67mm Turbo, 215/85 injectors, WPE intake manifold, NB/Warren Trans, and more stuff that I don't care to mention....
2006 F250 (LITTLE DURTY) - WPE Manifold, Up-pipes, EGR delete kit, and Tuned By ME
BULLET PROOF DIESEL 1-888-967-6653
KC TUROS - Not just a modified Powermax...

WINDRUNNER PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING
WWW.WPEDIESEL.COM

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post #5 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 05:37 PM
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as far as im concerned theres no way to bypass the stock regulator without deleting the fuel bowl. The regulator is in the fuel bowl.

You dont need hardline banjos to the rear, plenty of these aluminum an/JIC fittings fit back there no problem... people are just afraid to run them.

Im going to buy fittings and fuel line from the local parker dealer and will build my own in a few weeks when school is done and I have more time for my own truck
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hey PP, the main thing I am worried about is the heat melting the PTFE/braided/rubber hoses being so close to the up pipes. Those soft lines are only rated for 450* +/-. I would have to imagine being that close to the pipes those lines will get a chance to become hotter than that.

I agree, you can use something else other than banjo bolts at the back of the head.

S362 68/.91
Irate SS T4
Holders 175/30
BPD FICM
BPD Cooler
BPD WP
ARP
Yukon Locker
4.30's
NL CAI
Rudy's Intake elbow
Mishimoto Rad. & IC pipes
EGR Del.
Edge CTS2
SCT X3
FICM Tune
Jugger Pump w/DIY RR
Fuel PSI Gauge
35x18's
Bilstein 2.5"
Trac. Bars
DC Power
Powerstops

USCG 50GT MMC
Yamaha Outboard Master Tech
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 06:52 PM
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If you are that worried about it just wrap your up-pipes and problem solved. That is what I did and I got rid of that POS heat shield on the back of the motor. Not to mention that air makes a REALLY good insulator and with fresh fuel running through on the otherside, I wouldnt worry too much about it. JMO.

Nate
2006 F350 (BACKYARDIGAN) - 67mm Turbo, 215/85 injectors, WPE intake manifold, NB/Warren Trans, and more stuff that I don't care to mention....
2006 F250 (LITTLE DURTY) - WPE Manifold, Up-pipes, EGR delete kit, and Tuned By ME
BULLET PROOF DIESEL 1-888-967-6653
KC TUROS - Not just a modified Powermax...

WINDRUNNER PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING
WWW.WPEDIESEL.COM

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post #8 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 06:56 PM
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I agree, or you could use hardline and compression fittings on the back of the heads and not use banjos....
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-24-2011, 07:49 PM
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DP tuner makes outstanding stuff. Ran their stuff on my 7.3L, had ID tunes on my 6.0s and was not happy, switched to DP tunes and was night and day better, also DP has the best customer service in the buisness.

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post #10 of 13 Old 11-25-2011, 05:54 AM
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Flexible lines for the rear of the heads is really not a necessity. Braided steel hose is designed to withstand heat greater than what it will get on these trucks. I would say the max heat transfer you may see on this would be 300*F on what is DIRECTLY behind the up-pipes.

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