Can the F-250 6.0L PSD handle a Bullydog GT Diesel Tuner? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-01-2011, 05:54 PM
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Can the F-250 6.0L PSD handle a Bullydog GT Diesel Tuner?

Hey everyone,
Please forgive me if I am not using this forum right. I just joined and I need some advice. I recently traded my '08 Dodge Ram 3500 6.9L Cummins in on an awesome and well maintained 06 Ford F-250 with the 6.0L PSD motor. I was a bit hesitant after all that I have read regarding some of the problems the 6.0L had however I had the opportunity to speak with the previous owner of the F-250 and learned that this guy meticulously maintained the truck and never had any issues. Anyways, I love the For F-250 to death and would never go back to a Dodge. I ran a Bullydog Diesel Triple Dog GT Diesel Gauge/Tuner (40420) on the Dodge without any problems. However I have heard that running a Bullydog on my Ford F-250 with the 6.0L can cause issues. The previous owner stated that when he hooked up a Bullydog to the truck, it went thru injectors like candy (all of which he had Ford replace because he programmed the PCM back to factory and it was still under warranty!!). I am not sure if iut was the type of Bullydog he hooked up or if it's just the Bullydog in general. So, my question os: CAN THE 6.0L HANDLE THE BULLYDOG GT DIESEL TUNER (MODEL #Bullydog Diesel Triple Dog GT Diesel Gauge/Tuner (40420)Bullydog Diesel Triple Dog GT Diesel Gauge/Tuner (40420)??? Thanks for your opinion.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:01 PM
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Forget the Bullydog. Go with an SCT and custom tuning. Tons of info on here about them.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:04 PM
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PGreenSVT's wrightup

Here is the deal with the 6.0. Any good tuner (person writing your tunes) is not going to give you a tune that is going to tear up your truck. There are trucks all over the place running 400-420 rwhp with 750-800 rwtq all day long without problems.

Yes the 6.0 is known to blow head gaskets. This is why it happens. The Ford Gold coolant contains silicates. The silicates are not able to handle high EGT's generated by a good load or relatively high boost when they run through the EGR cooler. They break down into a gell like sludge and fall out of suspension. This crud gets caught up in the tiny coolant passageways of the oil cooler. As the cooler clogs up it restricts coolant flow to the egr cooler. Now the egr cooler doesn't have enough coolant to carry off the heat generated by high EGT's. The limited amount of coolant in the egr cooler flash boils causing high pressure in the cooling system and the truck pukes coolant from the degass bottle due to the pressure. (it has to go somewhere)
Your uninformed Powerstroke owner is not monitoring his coolant temps and oil temps so he doesn't know whats going on and he keeps driving it this way. The problem gets worse, the pressure causes the egr cooler to rupture. Now the egr cooler is leaking coolant into the intake manifold which then runs into the cylinders. Again the high combustion temps cause the coolant to vaporize. This causes unacceptably high cylinder pressure, the TTY head bolts stretch due to the add'l pressure and there go your head gaskets.

Ok now you know the problem. Here's the cure. Get a good engine monitoring solution like the Edge Insight so that you can monitor your ECT and EOT. If those temps get more than 15* apart with normal cruising when at normal operating temperature your oil cooler is clogging up. Rebuild it now to prevent all that down stream damage from occurring. Flush that Ford Gold coolant crap out of your engine with a couple bottles of Restore. This is made specifically to clean out that silicate residue. Now refill it with a silicate free Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant. This removes the silicates that clog the oil cooler from the equation. If you live in an area where you don't have smog inspections delete the egr system. If you can't delete it replace the egr cooler with the cooler manufactured by Bulletproof Diesel. This is vastly superior to the Ford oem egr cooler and it will not fail on you. If you find that you need to replace head gaskets replace the TTY head bolts with ARP studs and use black onyx (Victor Reinz) head gaskets. If you have to replace the egr cooler always replace the oil cooler. That is the source of the problem.

Now that you have addressed the common problems that scare the he11 out of people, get an SCT tuner (i like the X3) and install some custom tunes and drive the heck out of it. DO NOT baby it. The Powerstroke hates this and will rebel with turbo issues.

Turbo issues are also common repair points with the 6.0. People like to complain that it's because the VGT turbos are pieces of junk. This is not so. The VGT vanes in the turbo need to be exercised regularly. This means making them go through their full range of motion. So put your foot in it regularly and let it see some full boost runs. That will keep your VGT vanes from getting all sooted up and freezing up because of the soot. Again, that is what happens when you baby it. Put your foot in it and you will have less problems. Lay out of it and try to milk it for mileage like you would a gasser and you're going to have turbo issues. Don't let it sit either. That is also the kiss of death to the turbo. The unison ring rusts up and again you have turbo problems. So now that you know you need to give your turbo a regular work out to keep it happy, give it a proper cool down as well. Just whipping into your parking place and shutting it down will lead to coking the bearings and again major turbo issues. Running a good synthetic oil will help here immensely because it handles heat so much better and resists coking. But always let your turbo have time to cool down. This is one of the reasons you need a Pyrometer (EGT gauge). Let the EGT come down to 350* before shutting your truck off. This only takes a couple of minutes, especially if you take it easy on it for the last couple minutes of your trip. If this is too much hassle for you get a turbo timer that will automatically delay shutdown when you turn off the key to allow the turbo to cool down.

Injectors. Ford's HEUI injection system fires the injectors with High Pressure Oil, to the tune of 4,000psi at Wide Open Throttle. Maintenance is critical here so you can not let your oil maintenance slide like you can on a gasser. It will kill your injectors. The injectors also are known to suffer from something that we call stiction. That is when the oil side plunger of the injector hangs up or sticks when cold until the truck warms up. I believe this is caused by varnish buildup that is common to dino oils, especially those containing paraffin. Using a good synthetic oil will take care of that because it actually cleans the engine as it lubricates. If you do find yourself with some injector stiction add a couple of bottles of Rev-X to your oil. It has cleared up 99.9% of the trucks it has been used on. 2 bottles run around $70. A new injector is about $250-$290. Be anal about keeping your oil clean and fresh and changing your fuel filters regularly. The other thing that kills injectors is low fuel pressure. The fuel pressure needs to stay above 45psi at all times and is typically set around 52 psi from the factory. Well the factory fuel pressure regulator spring is weak and looses it's tension over time and can't maintain adequate fuel pressure. There is an updated rebuild kit that uses a better, stronger spring. Installing this spring will bring your fuel pressure up to about 62 psi and solve that. Get a fuel pressure gauge. It's important.

So that covers the frequent complaints with the 6.0. They are all well known at this point as are the solutions. Does it suck we have to fix Ford's blunders? Heck yes it does. But again we know how and once done you will have a very reliable robust truck that is well worth the effort. So address the issues as you can and enjoy your truck. It is a dynamite vehicle. I love mine.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:05 PM
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If the truck is eating injectors then check the fuel pressure right away. And as posted, forget the bullydog. SCT is the only way to go for the 6.0.
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:05 PM
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What they said. SCT with tunes(gearhead, innovative, quick tricks, etc...) Egr delete, exhaust, monitor(edge cts or cs) fuel pressure blue spring, 6.4 banjo's, leave the stock intake alone it flows more than enough and filters better than anything. Coolant flush, coolant filter, cat elc.

Do that and it will be fine. Do the needed maintenance first then put the fun stuff.
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:29 PM
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Guys thank you so much for youradvice and knowledge-very helpful. Couple more issues/questions that I am sure only you guys can answer. I find that my truck runs a hell of a lot better if I let it idle for about 10 minutes or less prior to driving it-I know that someone mentined idling was "the kiss of death" for that motor...but if I don't let it warm up like that in the mornings it runs like it's not getting adequate fuel until it is truly warmed up. Another thing I have noticed is that the factory MPG meter in the trip computer is stating I am getting about 11 MPG and I am mostly driving in town-I am sure some of that is because I am letting it idle a lot in the mornings but others tell me I should be getting at least 15 MPG in town. I am not lead-footing it around so I am a bit confused anout the MPG. One more thing is the dealership of whom I work for and bought the truck from disconnected the water in uel sensot prior to me buying it because they said they were sure that there was no water in the fuel after checking many times but the sensor kept saying there was-I assume this is just a bad sensor?

In summary, I don't have thousands of dollars sitting around to do all the upgrades I would like or at least all the upgrades that have been suggested-I mean I have the $$ but with a baby on the way, and the wife...you know the deal. I do know the previous owner of whom I have spoken with many many times, took great care of it-changing the Rotella oil every three thousand miles and meticulously changing the fuel filters well before recommended and this guy had hardly any issues until he hooked up the Bullydog to it and thats when he ran into injector issues. I want this truck to last me a long time-I love it but I may not be able to dump a ton of $$ into right now. I know the previou owner pretty much has gotten a lot of life out of this truck keeping it well maintained and pretty much stock.

So, what are the absolute essentials? I should put my foot into the turbo even as it stands now? No more idling? Or is it OK to let it warm up in the a.m.? I run injector cleaner with each tank of diesel I put in as recommended by the previous owner and will continue to run Rotella and maintain this truck meticulously...will it continue to last? It has 110K miles on it now. One other thing...it seems a bit sluggish to me compared to my Ram 3500 with a 6.9L. What is a sign that my injectors are going or that my heads are bad? Also if anyone is looking for or knows anyone looking for a brand spa nkin new Bullydog GT diesel tuner for a good price or would be interested in trading for a SCT, let me know.

THANKS AGAIN IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR WORDS OF WISDOM!
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:52 PM
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Welcome. Your truck wont be as strong when its cold with factory settings.
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peeterbilt View Post
Guys thank you so much for youradvice and knowledge-very helpful. Couple more issues/questions that I am sure only you guys can answer. I find that my truck runs a hell of a lot better if I let it idle for about 10 minutes or less prior to driving it-I know that someone mentined idling was "the kiss of death" for that motor...but if I don't let it warm up like that in the mornings it runs like it's not getting adequate fuel until it is truly warmed up.
Time to remove the batteries as a culprit. Yes, it could be that.
Take them out of the truck, run them down to the loacl autoparts store and have them load tested. If either of the batteries test marginal (or fail) replace them as a set.
Once you get the batteries home, place them on a battery charger. You want a 100% charge in them...even if you bought new ones.
Check the cables and clean/check the connectors.
Having done all of this, it is time to get your multimeter meter out.
Check your FICM. CLICK HERE to learn how to do so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by peeterbilt View Post
Another thing I have noticed is that the factory MPG meter in the trip computer is stating I am getting about 11 MPG and I am mostly driving in town-I am sure some of that is because I am letting it idle a lot in the mornings but others tell me I should be getting at least 15 MPG in town. I am not lead-footing it around so I am a bit confused anout the MPG.
Everyone refers to that MPG computer as the "Lie-ometer" and for a very good reason. It is not accurate by any stretch of the imagination. The ONLY way you will ever really know what your fuel mileage is will be to hand calculate it yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by peeterbilt View Post
One more thing is the dealership of whom I work for and bought the truck from disconnected the water in uel sensot prior to me buying it because they said they were sure that there was no water in the fuel after checking many times but the sensor kept saying there was-I assume this is just a bad sensor?
This can be as easy as a full can of carb cleaner. Bend the straw to about a 90 bend. Remove the HFCM drain (which is on the face of it). Remove the fuel filter cap and filter. Insert the straw through the drain hole of the HFCM and spray everywhere you can. You will get some junk out of it. I got some red flecks out. I also used the whole can. This cured my "Water In Fuel' light issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by peeterbilt View Post
In summary, I don't have thousands of dollars sitting around to do all the upgrades I would like or at least all the upgrades that have been suggested-I mean I have the $$ but with a baby on the way, and the wife...you know the deal. I do know the previous owner of whom I have spoken with many many times, took great care of it-changing the Rotella oil every three thousand miles and meticulously changing the fuel filters well before recommended and this guy had hardly any issues until he hooked up the Bullydog to it and thats when he ran into injector issues. I want this truck to last me a long time-I love it but I may not be able to dump a ton of $$ into right now. I know the previous owner pretty much has gotten a lot of life out of this truck keeping it well maintained and pretty much stock.

So, what are the absolute essentials? I should put my foot into the turbo even as it stands now? No more idling? Or is it OK to let it warm up in the a.m.? I run injector cleaner with each tank of diesel I put in as recommended by the previous owner and will continue to run Rotella and maintain this truck meticulously...will it continue to last?
Leave the injector cleaner out of it. This isn't your typical injector you would find on a gasser. That stuff can actually absorb water and allow it to enter the fuel system. Bad things can happen if that ocurrs. Use a cetane booster instead. Diesel Kleen or something along those lines is a much better choice.
The minimum I would suggest is the addition of an electronic gauge set such as the Edge CTS or something similar. If money is the primary concern here, check out the scangague2. It runs around $165 at your local autoparts store. You will have to program it for what you want to watch, and that is fairly easy to accomplish. There is also a thread on this forum that has all the codes to monitor anything you wish. You absolutely should be monitoring your engine coolant temp and your engine oil temps. Add the transmission oil temp to this display if you are towing heavy.
You should also consider adding manual gauges. The most important of which is a fuel pressure gauge. Should your fuel pressure fall below 45 psi, under any condition, injector damage could result. Secondly, if you tow, I suggest an EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge (AKA: Pyrometer). Keeping your EGT's under 1300F for extending periods of time will help your turbo last longer.

How meticulous was the previous owner with coolant maintenance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by peeterbilt View Post
It has 110K miles on it now. One other thing...it seems a bit sluggish to me compared to my Ram 3500 with a 6.9L. What is a sign that my injectors are going or that my heads are bad? Also if anyone is looking for or knows anyone looking for a brand spa nkin new Bullydog GT diesel tuner for a good price or would be interested in trading for a SCT, let me know.

THANKS AGAIN IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR WORDS OF WISDOM!
I would suggest listing that Bullydog on e-bay.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2011, 01:35 PM
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i drive mostly in town with custom tunes, and egr delete and cant get any better than 11-12 in town so i quit trying for gas mileage and just drive my truck
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2011, 02:06 PM
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what is your guys thoughts on a Superchip programmer-I only ask because I have a guy who is wanting to trade = $$ for my Bullydog...
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