Guys thank you so much for youradvice and knowledge-very helpful. Couple more issues/questions that I am sure only you guys can answer. I find that my truck runs a hell of a lot better if I let it idle for about 10 minutes or less prior to driving it-I know that someone mentined idling was "the kiss of death" for that motor...but if I don't let it warm up like that in the mornings it runs like it's not getting adequate fuel until it is truly warmed up.
Time to remove the batteries as a culprit. Yes, it could be that.
Take them out of the truck, run them down to the loacl autoparts store and have them load tested. If either of the batteries test marginal (or fail) replace them as a set.
Once you get the batteries home, place them on a battery charger. You want a 100% charge in them...even if you bought new ones.
Check the cables and clean/check the connectors.
Having done all of this, it is time to get your multimeter meter out.
Check your FICM. CLICK HERE
to learn how to do so.
Another thing I have noticed is that the factory MPG meter in the trip computer is stating I am getting about 11 MPG and I am mostly driving in town-I am sure some of that is because I am letting it idle a lot in the mornings but others tell me I should be getting at least 15 MPG in town. I am not lead-footing it around so I am a bit confused anout the MPG.
Everyone refers to that MPG computer as the "Lie-ometer" and for a very good reason. It is not accurate by any stretch of the imagination. The ONLY way you will ever really know what your fuel mileage is will be to hand calculate it yourself.
One more thing is the dealership of whom I work for and bought the truck from disconnected the water in uel sensot prior to me buying it because they said they were sure that there was no water in the fuel after checking many times but the sensor kept saying there was-I assume this is just a bad sensor?
This can be as easy as a full can of carb cleaner. Bend the straw to about a 90° bend. Remove the HFCM drain (which is on the face of it). Remove the fuel filter cap and filter. Insert the straw through the drain hole of the HFCM and spray everywhere you can. You will get some junk out of it. I got some red flecks out. I also used the whole can. This cured my "Water In Fuel' light issues.
In summary, I don't have thousands of dollars sitting around to do all the upgrades I would like or at least all the upgrades that have been suggested-I mean I have the $$ but with a baby on the way, and the wife...you know the deal. I do know the previous owner of whom I have spoken with many many times, took great care of it-changing the Rotella oil every three thousand miles and meticulously changing the fuel filters well before recommended and this guy had hardly any issues until he hooked up the Bullydog to it and thats when he ran into injector issues. I want this truck to last me a long time-I love it but I may not be able to dump a ton of $$ into right now. I know the previous owner pretty much has gotten a lot of life out of this truck keeping it well maintained and pretty much stock.
So, what are the absolute essentials? I should put my foot into the turbo even as it stands now? No more idling? Or is it OK to let it warm up in the a.m.? I run injector cleaner with each tank of diesel I put in as recommended by the previous owner and will continue to run Rotella and maintain this truck meticulously...will it continue to last?
Leave the injector cleaner out of it. This isn't your typical injector you would find on a gasser. That stuff can actually absorb water and allow it to enter the fuel system. Bad things can happen if that ocurrs. Use a cetane booster instead. Diesel Kleen or something along those lines is a much better choice.
The minimum I would suggest is the addition of an electronic gauge set such as the Edge CTS or something similar. If money is the primary concern here, check out the scangague2. It runs around $165 at your local autoparts store. You will have to program it for what you want to watch, and that is fairly easy to accomplish. There is also a thread on this forum that has all the codes to monitor anything you wish. You absolutely should be monitoring your engine coolant temp and your engine oil temps. Add the transmission oil temp to this display if you are towing heavy.
You should also consider adding manual gauges. The most important of which is a fuel pressure gauge. Should your fuel pressure fall below 45 psi, under any condition, injector damage could result. Secondly, if you tow, I suggest an EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge (AKA: Pyrometer). Keeping your EGT's under 1300°F for extending periods of time will help your turbo last longer.
How meticulous was the previous owner with coolant maintenance?
It has 110K miles on it now. One other thing...it seems a bit sluggish to me compared to my Ram 3500 with a 6.9L. What is a sign that my injectors are going or that my heads are bad? Also if anyone is looking for or knows anyone looking for a brand spa nkin new Bullydog GT diesel tuner for a good price or would be interested in trading for a SCT, let me know.
THANKS AGAIN IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR WORDS OF WISDOM!
I would suggest listing that Bullydog on e-bay.