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6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys had a question, other night got kinda chilly (45- 55 degrees), was in a rush let the truck maybe warm up a minute or two and went down the road, when it got twards its shift point it kinda stuttered and seemed like not enough fuel getting into the cylinders.... no smoke of any kind coming out the tail pipe. ended up pulling over a block down the road, got some fuel, let it warm up a bit more went down the road problem gone....... dono weather to be concerned.... nor any idea what it may be, was thinking something to do with fuel pressure or fuel filter.... any input? Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 07:39 AM
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either fuel pressure which i doubt because it would have still done it or stiction. my bet is stiction. did it kinda miss and studder a bit?

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post #3 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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yep missed and stuttered, that anything that is easy to fix?
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post #4 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 09:02 AM
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FICM issues or stiction. Go to the 6.0 tech files and find the thread titled "Troubleshooting a no start problem", or somthing to that effect. Scroll down to the FICM testing procedures and go from there. That temp isn't real cold IMO, but either problems I mentioned would cause that


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post #5 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 09:32 AM
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check the ficm. if it checks out good get some rev-x and it will fix that problem

2009 Ford F-350 FX4 4x4, H&S 300HD, MBRP 5" DP back exhaust, S&B intake, sinister egr delete, 4" BDS lift with fox shocks, 20x12 fuel nutz, 37" toyos, Custom painted headlights by me


SOLD: 2006 Ford F-350 4x4 King Ranch,ARP Head Studs and all the works
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post #6 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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if it was the FICM though wouldn't it happen all the time? this only happened literally for a block going down the road and then was fine...
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post #7 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 09:41 AM
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its still possible. once the motor gets going and the alternator gets going it might charge the system back up where it should and get the ficm going but your right also. check the batteries when you do the ficm test as well. bad batteries can lead to a false ID on the ficm. but personally i think its the stiction.

2009 Ford F-350 FX4 4x4, H&S 300HD, MBRP 5" DP back exhaust, S&B intake, sinister egr delete, 4" BDS lift with fox shocks, 20x12 fuel nutz, 37" toyos, Custom painted headlights by me


SOLD: 2006 Ford F-350 4x4 King Ranch,ARP Head Studs and all the works
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post #8 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 10:57 AM
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As the FICM get's older, and batteries wear, the solder joints on some of the connections crack giving you issues when the engine is cold. Now after the engine has alittle heat in it, it in turn heats the FICM up and boards and solder joints, causing them to flex back into a better connection. I'm told the reason for this is because the original solder that was used didn't havea high enough lead content to make it flexible. The test is easy, and the stiction can usually be fixed with Rev-X as mentioned

Checking codes would probably steer you in the right direction too, WITH a good scan tool like AE, or you can get the dealer to do it


2006 F350 SOLD
* KMC XD Monsters wrapped in Hankook ATM's
* 08 style mirrors
* 4" TB exhaust
* SCT X2 with Gearhead, PHP and ID tunes
* Edge Insight CTS
*Full Bulletproof Diesel kit with remote oil cooler
* Blue FPR spring
* 6.4 Banjos
* Repaired FICM by BPD
* Dfuser coolant filter
* Stage1 MTW turbo



New truck has a Cummins and a handshaker
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post #9 of 9 Old 10-28-2011, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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took a look around, one of my battery terminals has some gunk on it, gonna clean it up and see if that cures it, thanks guys!
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