Very well thought out! Looks good!!

Any feed back on temps and testing?
Is filter changes going to be messy?
Any change in A/C temps with the oil cooler in front?

 

Very good questions. All things that were definitely thought about and time will tell what the true answers are to these questions.

I havent had this revised kit on long, just a day. However from a nice 30 minute road trip at speeds up to 70+mph with outside ambient temp of 75F, oil temps got up to as high as 208F. Bear in mind that at that temp the thermostat hasnt even opened up to increase the small flow it was sending to the cooler just to keep it warm. I would expect that oil temps shouldnt really ever exceed 225F even with towing the max I am equipped to tow, 12k lbs. I say this because when I had my first cooler on, which was only rated to handle about 1/2 to 1/3 of the heat capacity that this one can. On my old setup, oil temps only really got up to that 225F while towing a 11klb enclosed cargo trailer in ambient temps of 85-90F. I also didnt have a thermostat in the mix (which is really the main reason for revision), but even with the thermostat I really just think the oil temp will just stay alot closer to 215F since that is where the thermostat opens at.

It definitely has the potential to be messy with oil changes. The filters come out relatively easy and dont have to be contorted to weird angles to come out. The hardest filter to get out is the huge bypass one. It does have to come out at a slight angle so we will have to see how messy it gets. I know when I do go to change them out that I will be using a good amount of paper towls just to be safe.

Not really sure yet on the A/C performance. I dont really expect it to straight up kill my A/C but am not sure what exactly will happen. What I do know is that I put about an inch gap between the cooler and the condenser to minimize any heat transfer between the two. I slid it to the drivers side as much as I could and have about an inch of the whole width of the cooler that doesnt block the condenser. And lastly, the cooler flows air through it REALLY well. I could put my hand up to it and feel the fan pulling air through.

Hope those answers help out. I will post more info as I get it. I dont really tow a lot so it may be awhile before I am actually able to do a real towing test with it.

 

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That looks awesome. Man you have a clean looking engine bay. Nice job:thumb:

 

Just an update for everyone here. I drove the truck to work this morning and ambient temp was 62F and cruising on the hwy for about 17 miles at ~67mph, oil temp was 205-208F the whole time. Since that is what the temps were on my intial run I am going to say that the thermostat is opening and functioning like it should. Now this makes sense as I think about it because as the oil leaves the motor "hot" (at some temp say up to and greater than 215F) the thermostat opens and sends some to the cooler and cools it so that it reenters the motor at 205-208F, which is where the sensor is located. More driving in various ambient temps will confirm what oil temps will actually be but I have to say that as of right now, oil temps are right where I would like them and hopefully with the thermostat in the system now, the oil temp will be able to stay in that range when winter hits so I can keep my good fuel economy.

 

Looks great! Nice job on the layout. I don't think I would have the patience to lay all that out.
The one and only thing I might do different is the hose that goes over top of the filters (red elbow in the last pic). It looks like there might be enough slack to go under the other hose and around to the front versus over the top.?.?

I would think that if the AC gave you any issues, you could "overcharge" the system a little. I overcharged by 7 ounces when I recharged after the BPD install.

 

Well there is enough slack but if I went that route there wouldnt be enough room to get the bypass filter out. With this orientation it the bypass filter can only come out one way. I still have yet to see how much of a mess i am going to make when I change it out. I know I am going to have to be patient and use a paper towel to cover the top and hold the oil in while I quickly tilt it to get it out.

Totally concur on the A/C. It may need to be topped off anyways. I havent touched it in the five years that I have had the truck. I should at least check it to see what it is at.

Thanks for the complements guys.

 

I'm a little surprised at how high your temps are! Were you towing anything?? My temps stay around 190-194 cruising at 70 and that is with the stock oil cooler and ambient temps around 65. Seems strange to me. Or am I just running cool?

The install looks great!

 

That looks nice. I admire your "out-of-the-box" thinking. I have to admit I'm not a big fan of push-lock hose, but that's just my paranoid side talking.

You need to measure your pressure drop across your oil cooler and filters. The BPD transfer block has a built in bypass valve that opens at 30psi of pressure differential in case of a restriction in the external parts of our system. It was engineered to work with our filter system and oil cooler. My concern for your set-up is that during normal operation you could be bypassing the cooler and filters with a large volume of unfiltered/uncooled oil. Also, I don't think the crossflow cooler has the capacity to handle the volume of oil the 6.0 needs.

As long as the pressure drop across you system (hoses, filters and cooler), at max demand (WOT, full load, ~3700 RPM, at normal operating temperature) stays within 18-22psi you should be just fine.

 

You need to measure your pressure drop across your oil cooler and filters. The BPD transfer block has a built in bypass valve that opens at 30psi of pressure differential in case of a restriction in the external parts of our system. It was engineered to work with our filter system and oil cooler. My concern for your set-up is that during normal operation you could be bypassing the cooler and filters with a large volume of unfiltered/uncooled oil. Also, I don't think the crossflow cooler has the capacity to handle the volume of oil the 6.0 needs.

As long as the pressure drop across you system (hoses, filters and cooler), at max demand (WOT, full load, ~3700 RPM, at normal operating temperature) stays within 18-22psi you should be just fine.

I totally hear what you are saying. I will have to try and see if I can figure out a way to measure the D/P across my system. I also didnt know that the transfer block had that feature. That is very cool. I will try to do some more testing and see if I can figure out what the pressures are at the outlet of the engine and back at the inlet as that would allow me to see if it falls within that 18-22psi range. By the way where did you get those numbers from?? i.e. the 30psi and 18-22psi? I am just curious. I can understand the paranoia of using pushlock hoses as I kind of struggled with it when I decided to go that route. The main selling factor for me on them was that they can be assembled very easily, meets the temp and pressure requirement, and doesnt require the hose ends to be at exact angles when assembled and if assembled incorrectly be required to be disassembled and redone.

 

looks great! Great advise BPD!

 

Yea I must have the older version because mine is the one with two pipe plugs under where the oe filter would have been. I should be able to get something together within a week to get those pressures checked. I could also see just what the oil pressure is going to the motor after everything and see if that falls within spec.

 

Thanks for that thread on cold starting issues. That was one of the reasons I wanted to modify my previous design. I hope that by adding in a thermostat, I can for the most part bypass the oil cooler and help prevent my low oil pressure condition. I will also agree with you, in your thread where you state that it is really a non-issue. My thought on the subject is that since I run full synthetic oil in my system that my surfaces are protected by the synthetic film that forms and makes synthetics superior in protection to regular petroleum based oils and my motor isnt making a lot of heat at that temp and for say the 10-15 seconds it takes at idle with no load on the motor for the oil pressure to come up that it really wasnt hurting anything. Anyways again thank you for the insight you have provided me. I hope it benefits others as much as it has me. I like learning all I can about things I am interested in.

 

Do you have the part number for the oil cooler you used? It would help people out who are trying to build there own kit.

 

I used a bmk23 oil filter housing, Eao26 and Eabp110 filters, Canton racing oil thermostat, and Fluidyne DB-30617. I dont know what the fluidyne part number is for the BPD cooler. Hope these help.

 

I thought you all used the 30618 since it looked like the ones that went on the bumper. Here is a graph of what I found for the Fluidyne coolers and what their heat removal capacity and D/P across the cooler is. I cant tell which cooler has what D/P.

 

I did some data logging yesterday after reading this thread, and it seems that your oil temps are going to be too high to pull anything. I more or less ran with the same specs as you did when comparing IAT (70*), drive time, almost all uphill (13 miles vs your 17), 65-70 mph. Except my EOT never went above 180*. I just wanted to drop that in here for your info.

I really like what you did :thumb:

 

Time will tell if you are correct. I would submit to you that in general if oil temps are over 220F then that would need to be addressed. So far I have 110 miles on this kit with temps varying from 60-80F (it is still a little warm here in Tennessee) and oil temp fluctuates between 205-208F at the motor. Now this is because I have the temperature being regulated by a thermostat in my system that opens at 215F. This means as either ambient temps go up, load on the engine goes up (i.e. either going faster or towing or both), or both that the temp of the oil coming out of the motor will go up and the thermostat will open more and send more oil to the cooler which is more than capable of handling any heat load produced by our motors. Therefore, I expect oil temps to stay right around the temp they are at and probably wont go a whole lot higher when towing because right now the thermostat isnt all the way open.

 

I noticed on your hoses it says 300 psi, is that enough?
I thought I read somewhere BPD hoses are like 1500 psi rated...

 

That is probably what BPD hoses are rated at. Well the question if is 300psi enough will be left up to only time will tell. So far so good. Most engine oil pressures are in the neighborhood of 50-60psi and sometimes as high as 100psi. So with that mindset I should have a minimum factor of safety of 3 with only 300 psi.

 

IIRC the BPD oil stat opens at like 183*, FWIW

 

Yes I am sure that their tstat does open at ~180F. So your oil temp would be maintained at in the neighborhood of 180F. I just wanted to make sure my oil was good and hot to keep water moisture out of the oil and I am able to achieve that with this setup being at 208F. Like I said, only time will tell and I will have to hook up to a load and see what my oil temps do. But right now even running down the highway at speeds up to 80 mph I havent seen my oil temps get over 209F. It mostly sits at 206F and flucuates between 203 and 209. Believe me I am trying to push this thing to see what happens. If interested I'll keep you posted.

 

Keep us posted. Trust me, there are MANY that are interested in this.

 

Yes, please keep this thread updated :thumb:

I see your point to the higher stat temp, but even with mine opening at 183*, I still see EOT's in the 220 to 230 range when hauling heavy. I'm interested to see how yours works out. I'm a tinkerer too

I don't know which is better yet, but I'm sure we will find out between you and I's temps :thumb:

 

You can change our t-stat guts out to a different temp if you want. We designed it with the working man/tinkerer in mind. The core "wax-stat" is from a 180deg Carquest brand thermostat that fits old school small block chevy. So if you wanted to lower the oil temps, you could replace it with a 160deg thermostat's "wax-stat" or raise them with a 195deg "wax-stat".

Note: The "wax-stat" temp doesn't reference the temp the oil will be kept at.

Another interesting thing we have learned has to do with fan clutch operational programming and a divorced oil/coolant system. But that will have to wait for another day. Never a dull moment here... :sly:

 

Gotcha :thumb:

 

some more options to look at for me I am definitely going to mod the factory oil cooler housing but I like the cooler option and the tstat which I was still trying to figure out how to address

 

Dude man do not even think about doing any oil cooler delete other than BPD if you are just trying to save some money. If there is something in there product that doesnt meet your desire/need (other than price) then maybe but their kit is engineered to work perfect for our trucks and when you go messing around without understanding the whole picture stuff can get messed up and they are awesome folks to deal with. You will have less headache in reinventing this wheel if you just go with their kit and you can know your truck will be perfectly safe. JMO and hope it helps.

 

O I understand what your saying but I can't help myself when I do everything there will be lots of pictures and its very own thread. Building is fun and I have a decent grasp I have been doing lots and lots of homework and it is starting to look very very doable. But I will be going with 180 thermostat 215 is a little high for me

 

Got ya. You are pretty much doing it like I did it. I know the 215F sounds high but I really dont think it is that high. In my setup so far (I dont have anything to tow to test that yet) with over 130 miles on the setup I have not seen oil temp exceed 209F and so far ambient temps have been at a high of about 80F and this with speeds varying between 70 and 85 mph for over 10 miles. (By the way the faster you go the more air you move over the cooler. I know I know. No duh right?) Transient oil temps are going to be in both systems and your final steady state oil temp, in the end, is going to come down to what kind of load is on the engine and how efficient your system is at removing the heat. So for argument sake, if two systems were designed to handle the same heat load and that heat load caused a final steady state temperature of 220F, then regardless if you have a 180F or a 215F thermostat in your system, the final temp will be 220F in both of them. I hope this makes sense and I really just said it for other folks sake to help them better understand what a thermostat is actually designed to do. Its only function is to help maintain a minimum oil temp (by opening at a certain temp to start sending more oil to the cooler) and really has no bearing on overall max oil temp. (This is going to be determined by how much heat your oil cooler has the ability to remove.) Hope this helps.