Small amount of fluid out of DEGAS bottle. Is there way to tell why? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-22-2011, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Small amount of fluid out of DEGAS bottle. Is there way to tell why?

I know puking out the degas bottle normally is a tell tale sign of either head gaskets or oil cooler or both but is there a way to tell what one if any or if it is only as easy as the original cap not holding pressure? I have not seen any signs even slightly of any white smoke out my tail pipe and the coolant leaking is very minor but it has happend twice now in about a 6 month period. The level in my degas bottle is about 1/2 inch below the min level line. I have read post on here about what it may be or may not be and curious if there is a test I can do or if my CTS gauges can give me insight on what one or both that may be causing this. Last time I noticed the fluid was when I was on the Highway and hit the go pedal to pass and my torgue converter didnt unlock and EGT's hit about 1100. So not to extreme of a condition I dont think. I have since cleaned any dried fluid off my cap inside and out and along hoses near by so I can watch to see if happens again.

RCD 4.5" lift with Airlift system, 4" MBRP turbo back minus KITTY & MUFFLER, AFE Stage II Pro Gaurd 7 intake, SCT X3 with Custom tunes, EDGE CTS for gagues with Pyro Probe, ARP studs, BPD Egr, Updated FORD oil cooler, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, AirDog II, 6.4 Banjo's, Upgraded BLUE fuel pressure spring, autometer in cab fuel pressure gaugs, Mag Hytec rear Diff cover, Full HID Xeon lights with HID Foggs, Recon LED tail and 3rd break lights all on 35X12.5R20's Toyo M/T's, XD Misfit rims.
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-22-2011, 07:39 PM
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It wouldn't be an oil cooler causing the degas bottle to eject coolant. It could be a failed egr cooler. The reason the oil cooler failed is because of the plugged oil cooler.You have an edge cts, what is your engine coolant temp and your engine oil temp readings? You want the truck up to full operating temp (coolant temp 190F or so), travelling at 55-65MPH for 5-10 minutes on flat ground.
If that delta is 15F or more, your oil cooler has plugged, causing your egr cooler to fail.
If you want to know for sure if the egr cooler has failed, park your truck on a decent hill, nose down. Remove the EGR valve and leave the truck like this overnight. In the morning, check the hole for the presence of moisture. If you see moisture, your egr cooler has failed.
Continuing to drive the truck in that condition will pop the head gaskets. Whether they are popped now or not, click the link from BulletproofDiesel.com.
BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0

OR:

http://www.ntshoptools.com/video/Bad...d%20Gasket.wmv
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-22-2011, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ah ok I will do this tonight when I am home from work till I get moving in the morning and go from there. As far as the temps go on normal day of driving with some fun but not pushing to limits my temps get between 190-195 with my ECT and my EOT is usually between 10 degrees or less of one another. I have seen differences of about 15 but that is usually for maybe 5 minutes tops if that and then they either even out or stay within 5-10 degrees of one another. Usually when they are more is when it is still fully warming up. Is there a way to test to see if my head gaskets are pushing up?

RCD 4.5" lift with Airlift system, 4" MBRP turbo back minus KITTY & MUFFLER, AFE Stage II Pro Gaurd 7 intake, SCT X3 with Custom tunes, EDGE CTS for gagues with Pyro Probe, ARP studs, BPD Egr, Updated FORD oil cooler, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, AirDog II, 6.4 Banjo's, Upgraded BLUE fuel pressure spring, autometer in cab fuel pressure gaugs, Mag Hytec rear Diff cover, Full HID Xeon lights with HID Foggs, Recon LED tail and 3rd break lights all on 35X12.5R20's Toyo M/T's, XD Misfit rims.
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-22-2011, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Also I forgot to ask but how much of a decent do you think is needed to point my nose down?

RCD 4.5" lift with Airlift system, 4" MBRP turbo back minus KITTY & MUFFLER, AFE Stage II Pro Gaurd 7 intake, SCT X3 with Custom tunes, EDGE CTS for gagues with Pyro Probe, ARP studs, BPD Egr, Updated FORD oil cooler, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, AirDog II, 6.4 Banjo's, Upgraded BLUE fuel pressure spring, autometer in cab fuel pressure gaugs, Mag Hytec rear Diff cover, Full HID Xeon lights with HID Foggs, Recon LED tail and 3rd break lights all on 35X12.5R20's Toyo M/T's, XD Misfit rims.
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-23-2011, 06:58 AM
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I had a non-typical experiance with my truck with regards to puking coolant out of the cap. I have an Edge Instight CTS to monitor my temps and they were well within the 15* spread, but I was puking coolant out of my degas bottle under load. It turned out that my EGR cooler had failed WITHOUT my oil cooler bring clogged. I can only assume that at some point the oil cooler was replaced and the EGR cooler was not or maybe I had a defective EGR cooler. Either way, I deleted the EGR cooler with the Sinister kit and have been runnign great ever since! And my already low EOT-ECT delta is now even smaller than it was before!


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post #6 of 11 Old 09-24-2011, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
It wouldn't be an oil cooler causing the degas bottle to eject coolant. It could be a failed egr cooler. The reason the oil cooler failed is because of the plugged oil cooler.You have an edge cts, what is your engine coolant temp and your engine oil temp readings? You want the truck up to full operating temp (coolant temp 190F or so), travelling at 55-65MPH for 5-10 minutes on flat ground.
If that delta is 15F or more, your oil cooler has plugged, causing your egr cooler to fail.
If you want to know for sure if the egr cooler has failed, park your truck on a decent hill, nose down. Remove the EGR valve and leave the truck like this overnight. In the morning, check the hole for the presence of moisture. If you see moisture, your egr cooler has failed.
Continuing to drive the truck in that condition will pop the head gaskets. Whether they are popped now or not, click the link from BulletproofDiesel.com.
BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0

OR:j

http://www.ntshoptools.com/video/Bad...d%20Gasket.wmv
THE EGR IS ONLY TWO BOLTS AND THE CLIP CORRECT? MAYBE CAUSE I HAVE NEVER REMOVED IT BEFORE BUT IT SEEMS AS THOUGH IT IS EITHER STUCK OR MAYBE JUST NEEDS A LIL LOVE TO REMOVE. ANY HINTS OR TRICKS?

RCD 4.5" lift with Airlift system, 4" MBRP turbo back minus KITTY & MUFFLER, AFE Stage II Pro Gaurd 7 intake, SCT X3 with Custom tunes, EDGE CTS for gagues with Pyro Probe, ARP studs, BPD Egr, Updated FORD oil cooler, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, AirDog II, 6.4 Banjo's, Upgraded BLUE fuel pressure spring, autometer in cab fuel pressure gaugs, Mag Hytec rear Diff cover, Full HID Xeon lights with HID Foggs, Recon LED tail and 3rd break lights all on 35X12.5R20's Toyo M/T's, XD Misfit rims.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-24-2011, 06:24 AM
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lots of love it's a joy to remove

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post #8 of 11 Old 09-24-2011, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by scparrish View Post
lots of love it's a joy to remove
Is it easier. To remove when it is cold, the engine I mean, and any certain trick to break it free?

RCD 4.5" lift with Airlift system, 4" MBRP turbo back minus KITTY & MUFFLER, AFE Stage II Pro Gaurd 7 intake, SCT X3 with Custom tunes, EDGE CTS for gagues with Pyro Probe, ARP studs, BPD Egr, Updated FORD oil cooler, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, AirDog II, 6.4 Banjo's, Upgraded BLUE fuel pressure spring, autometer in cab fuel pressure gaugs, Mag Hytec rear Diff cover, Full HID Xeon lights with HID Foggs, Recon LED tail and 3rd break lights all on 35X12.5R20's Toyo M/T's, XD Misfit rims.
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-24-2011, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Power2336 View Post
Is it easier. To remove when it is cold, the engine I mean, and any certain trick to break it free?
It can be a real pain to remove. I have found that a twisting or turning motion while you pull up is needed. In a perfect world you have two o-rings sealing the valve to the manifold. Our diesel world is not perfect and you now have a ton of sooty carbon sticking the valve in the manifold. Maybe try a little penetrating lube if you can get the valve started up. Be very careful of anything falling into the intake once the valve is removed. Check to be sure that a chunk of carbon has not fallen out of the valve into the intake. Clean the valve before you reinstall. Best wishes on the truck not being broken.

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post #10 of 11 Old 09-24-2011, 12:57 PM
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try not to bend the tabs to much its easy to do

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