EGR Delete kit differences

[Vudue Priest]

Hi,

As I'm sure you all can see I am brand spankin new to this forum, and find myself seeking knowledge from the illustrious members here at powerstroke.org. Ok so my computer flashed a code at me the other day, I read in the manual that it was probably EGR related, I took it to Autozone and then to the dealer to verify that the EGR was experiencing flow restriction. Mechanic wanted 2500 bucks to take out the valve and clean it (which I guess was fords fix to this issue for a while). However I do as much with my own vehicle as I can manage and you best believe for 2500 bucks I wasn't letting the mechanic do it. Anyways I read that this was a fundamental flaw with the 6.0, so I started reading up on EGR delete kits. I've decided after reading about them and talking with a few people that I would be getting one and installing it very soon. I am not worried about emissions BS because Im military and no matter what state I'm in I don't have to e-test my truck, (tree huggers can suck on that).

So the real question I have for you all (sorry for the long winded build up) is what kind of kit am I looking for, I mean what is the difference between a basic kit and one that comes with turbo seals, or an oil cooler ETC. ETC. What is the bare minimum I need in a kit to be done with that freakin EGR forever that I can do on my own? I appreciate all of your time and patience.

P.S. Cheap is good too and I already heard Sinister is a knock off of RCD I have that and I don't see a problem, just want to know what works. Thanks again.

Josh

[NYC F-350]

It would be foolhardy to install an EGR cooler delete without knowing if the EGR cooler has failed internally. The EGR cooler would be a symptom of other failures. Treat the symptom while ignoring the true cause and you could set yourself up for more serious problems.

Park your truck on a good hill, nose down.
Remove the egr valve.
Leave it like this overnight.
In the morning, check the hole for the presence of moisture.
If you see moisture, your EGR cooler has failed AND your oil cooler is plugged. BOTH will need to be addressed.

[Vudue Priest]

I appreciate the info, and I will most definitely try that out, but if at 118000 miles that egr valve has gone out twice should i just buy a kit with an oil cooler or get an oem cooler to supplement a kit as more of a pre-emptive measure?

[Fred@PMM]

Originally Posted by Vudue Priest

I appreciate the info, and I will most definitely try that out, but if at 118000 miles that egr valve has gone out twice should i just buy a kit with an oil cooler or get an oem cooler to supplement a kit as more of a pre-emptive measure?

Truth be known, your EGR Valve going bad is probably being caused by a bad cooler. We will be more than happy to help you out with a package deal for Oil Cooler and Delete or even just tech support. Let us know how we can help!

[NYC F-350]

At 118,000 miles, a few questions come to mind.
Has the coolant ever been changed?
Has the cooling system been flushed before?
Have you ever checked the nitrite level of your coolant?

[Vudue Priest]

All amazing questions that I wish I had the answers for, I know that it had a complete flush when I bought it. but then again I'm the 3rd owner and carfax is kinda vaugue when it says it has been serviced.

[NYC F-350]

Got ya.
Check out the first link in my signature line, "basic info," it will tell you what you need to add to your truck ASAP and what to watch for.

[Vudue Priest]

Well gents I decided on the fcdp full delete kit, now my question to yall, is there a need to replace my oil cooler even though my truck just hit 118000 miles?

[NYC F-350]

Only you (and your trucks existing oil cooler) can answer that question.
To obtain the enlightenment that you seek, You need the proper gauges.
That pretty dashboard is only that, pretty. The gauges suck.
You need to find out what the temperature differential is between your engine coolant and your engine oil temperatures.

The easiest way to get the necessary gauges is by purchasing an electronic monitor that plugs into your OBD port.
ALL 6.0's DESPERATELY need gauges. (see the "basic info" link in my signature for what ones you need, why and what to look for)

Once you have the needed gauges, take the truck for a cruise down the highway at around 60MPH or so on flat ground for 10-15 minutes AFTER reaching full operating temp (coolant should be 190°F give or take a few degrees). Should the two temperatures display a 15°F difference (oil will be hotter), the oil cooler MUST be replaced.

Before replacing an oil cooler, it is in your best interest to flush your cooling system to remove the gunk/junk/slime (and quite possibly sand particles). This is the junk that is responsible for clogging the oil cooler.

Failure to heed the warning provided by the gauges can result in the oil cooler becoming so heated that it can fail and leak oil into your cooling system. Not a fun thing to clean afterwards.

[Vudue Priest]

You sir are some sort of wizard aren't you? How much hell has your truck put you through that you could possibly have all of this information locked away in that noodle? Haha Thank you again for all of your help.