Advice for ARP Studs

[Timbo126]

I wanted to see what you guys think the best plan of attack is for an install of ARP studs. I just recently got a tune from IDP for a non studed struck and love it, but now I really want to move up to the extreme street and not have to worrie about getting stranded. I bought my truck with 47,000 miles on it all stock. I had an oasis done on it as well and there was no history of ever having any of the serious 6.0L problems. The engine also showed no signs of ever having been torn apart or puking out of the coolant degass bottle. The truck now has 65,000k miles on it and has been maintained top notch by advice from here and ford-trucks. This weekend I will be flushing and replacing the gold coolant out for an ELC coolant. So I guess my question is now if I proceed with head studs do I need to get my heads machined since my engine is barely even broken in, or can I just replace the bolts. If so what should it cost and would anyone have advice for a shop around MD. Oh and also I did get the 200k mile warranty from ford so how does this play in.

By the way this is my first post on powerstroke.org

[PerformanceMachineMFG]

Truthfully, with basic mechanical skill the ARP Studs can be done yourself as long as follow the factory ford specs. However, if you aren't feeling up to it, I believe Maryland Performance Diesel does that type of work, not sure what part of the state you are in compared to them, but I would give them a shout. Milling the heads is a very unique situation that needs to be performed by a qualified machine shop. The maximum warpage is .002 and must be checked from top to bottom between the cylinders unlike most heads where you check them long ways. The minimum thickness for the heads after milling is 3.737" but we have gone as far as 3.730" without an issue. Hopefully this will help you along, shoot us a PM or Call should you have any questions.

- Fred


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[PerformanceMachineMFG]

Sorry forgot about the cost, typically for studs installed with a new Oil Cooler, Head Gaskets, Studs, and other miscellaneous fluids and gaskets you should be in the range of $3,500 - $5,000 depending upon shop labor rates and actual hours they charge, don't let someone charge an outrageous shop hour time of over 22-24 hours, this is sufficient enough time for even a mechanic non-familiar with the procedures to complete the job.


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[PGreenSVT]

Pasadena Diesel Repair. Good folks who will treat you right and do good work at a fair price. No I have no affiliation. I do my own work.

[smokersteve]

ARP's from browns diesel are $398. So far that is the cheapst that I know of.

[Timbo126]

Since my truck doesn't even have that many miles on it yet. Do I still need to have the heads machined? Or can just have the bolts replaced with the studs? I don't want to do all the other stuff like egr delete though just the head studs.

[H8D-F250]

Originally Posted by smokersteve

ARP's from browns diesel are $398. So far that is the cheapst that I know of.

Theyre currently on backorder everywhere I'm searching, except for at cobbs diesel but from all the things I've heard about them I would hesitate tonbuy from them.

[PerformanceMachineMFG]

Originally Posted by H8D-F250

Theyre currently on backorder everywhere I'm searching, except for at cobbs diesel but from all the things I've heard about them I would hesitate tonbuy from them.

We have a shipment from ARP due in today, there should be about 4-6 sets left over once backorders are filled if anyone is in need.

[PerformanceMachineMFG]

Originally Posted by Timbo126

Since my truck doesn't even have that many miles on it yet. Do I still need to have the heads machined? Or can just have the bolts replaced with the studs? I don't want to do all the other stuff like egr delete though just the head studs.

You can stud them one by one and not remove the heads, BUT I am not a big fan of this. Chances are your gaskets are blown or near failing, if the heads are off the truck by all means take them to a reputable machine shop and have them checked. MAKE SURE the machine shop follows Ford spec on how they need to be checked, they cannot be checked like a normal cylinder head for flatness. If you have any warpage past .002 they need to be machined, also have them check the overall thickness to make sure there is plenty of valve clearance. The minimum thickness by Ford spec is 3.730", however we have went as far as .008" past that without any problems.

- Matt

[Dave]

Originally Posted by PerformanceMachineMFG

You can stud them one by one and not remove the heads, BUT I am not a big fan of this. Chances are your gaskets are blown or near failing, if the heads are off the truck by all means take them to a reputable machine shop and have them checked. MAKE SURE the machine shop follows Ford spec on how they need to be checked, they cannot be checked like a normal cylinder head for flatness. If you have any warpage past .002 they need to be machined, also have them check the overall thickness to make sure there is plenty of valve clearance. The minimum thickness by Ford spec is 3.730", however we have went as far as .008" past that without any problems.

- Matt

Studding a 6.0 without pulling the heads on a 6.0 is one thing I would never do. Thats for sure.