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Old 05-05-2011, 09:28 PM
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Lightbulb EGR Delete System question

I want to bullet proof my truck I know that an egr delete is what many 6.0 owners have done... is this something that I can do in my drive way with a basic set of tools. How long does this take and what are the best kits to use..

I have seen a Egr Delete pip and a plate or something like that dont know what the difference is but know its inportent. What big gains will I get by doing this I know its a percaution to prevent the EGR from going bad but I do check and clean mine every 10k or so... Should I still do a delete on this....
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:33 PM
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6.0L Ford Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit this is the one i use. it works great. the reason you want to change the up pipe is so that it flows better, some up pipes have a scoop in them to direct the air to the cooler, this restricts the flow.
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:50 PM
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you should see your truck get a little better mpg, i noticed a little less turbo lag beings that my up pipe doesnt have a huge scoop in it that blocks almost half the pipe. I had alot of changes but my egr cooler was cracked and my veins were sticking so my all the improvement i had, you might not get just because my truck had all that going bad.
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:21 PM
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The main purpose of deleting the EGR is to avoid any EGR cooler issues down the road and keep from coking up your intake with carbon deposits. Some people say that having an EGR cooler blow lets coolant dump into the exhaust, which then makes it way into the cylinders. When it gets into the cylinders and is compressed and fired it turns into steam, which helps to stretch the head bolts causing a head gasket issue. This seems like a probable issue to me.

Either way, getting rid of the EGR system is a worthwhile thing to do. You can find EGR delet kits on Ebay for around 200 dollars. These kits actually work great. Just make sure the kit comes with a new pipe for the passenger side manifold.

You don't have to pull the entire intake manifold to do the job. You will need to remove the turbo and loosen up all the intake manifold bolts. I like to replace the intake manifold gaskets also when I do this. Once you have the intake loose you can pop the EGR cooler out. Then with the passenger side up pipe out of the way you can slide the EGR cooler towards the rear of the truck and pull it out of the way. The hardest part of this job is just getting the old up pipe off and the new one installed. It takes around 4-6 hours to do for most people.

If it's an 03-05 you can remove the EGR valve totally. Since the EGR system is not working at this point it doesn't really matter anyway. If you have an 06-07 truck it seems like they will throw a check engine light if you delete the EGR. I know you can delete this if you have most chips now days. For example it's an option to delete the EGR valve thru SCT programmers.

Overall deleting the EGR system is one of the best things to do on a 6.0. It's just a matter of time before the EGR cooler blows or you have an EGR valve issue so why not get rid of it? Hell, the delete kits are going for way less then it would be to replace a EGR cooler or EGR valve anyway!
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:38 PM
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man you all have some good tips on this
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:42 PM
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I think this will be a weekend job for sure looks like alot to do....
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmix View Post
The main purpose of deleting the EGR is to avoid any EGR cooler issues down the road and keep from coking up your intake with carbon deposits. Some people say that having an EGR cooler blow lets coolant dump into the exhaust, which then makes it way into the cylinders. When it gets into the cylinders and is compressed and fired it turns into steam, which helps to stretch the head bolts causing a head gasket issue. This seems like a probable issue to me.
Not trying to be an a-hole, but you are wrong. The EGR cooler failure would allow coolant to directly enter the air intake stream whenever the EGR valve opened. The coolant would be introduced in the very same manner as the "cooled" exhaust gases. The coolant would then enter the combustion chamber and since liquid can not be compressed to the same extent as air (or vapors), that is what lifts the heads off the block. Not the creation of steam. The creation of steam as a byproduct of the combustion process would actually add power.


Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmix View Post
You don't have to pull the entire intake manifold to do the job. You will need to remove the turbo and loosen up all the intake manifold bolts. I like to replace the intake manifold gaskets also when I do this.
What I want to know is how do you get those new intake gaskets on without removing the intake manifold bolts?
No, the intake manifold does not need to be completely removed from the truck, but if your going to put new intake gaskets in, you will have to completely remove the bolts to do it. At that point, there really isn't much holding the intake manifold in anyway, other than that EGR cooler you are removing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmix View Post
If it's an 03-05 you can remove the EGR valve totally. Since the EGR system is not working at this point it doesn't really matter anyway. If you have an 06-07 truck it seems like they will throw a check engine light if you delete the EGR. I know you can delete this if you have most chips now days. For example it's an option to delete the EGR valve thru SCT programmers.
I would suggest leaving the EGR valve in place, no matter what year your truck is. Since the EGR cooler is deleted, what exactly is the point of removing it? It will still open/close, but to what end? It will accomplish nothing, and there is some evidence that if you do remove the EGR valve it may cause issues with the "fan on" command, even if the EGR commands are deleted using an SCT tuner. That might only be the case on the later years, I would have to go through my notes on the subject and just don't feel like doing that at the moment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmix View Post
Overall deleting the EGR system is one of the best things to do on a 6.0. It's just a matter of time before the EGR cooler blows or you have an EGR valve issue so why not get rid of it? Hell, the delete kits are going for way less then it would be to replace a EGR cooler or EGR valve anyway!
I agree. Delete if you can. Take into account pending legislation in your state before doing so, or you may have to reinstall your EGR system.
I, and many other people on this forum, used the $150 kit from Dicad solutions on e-bay. I have not read about anyone having any issues using that kit.
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Old 05-07-2011, 12:48 PM
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Good points! True, it is necessary to totally remove the intake bolts to replace the gaskets. I guess what I was trying to get at is most of the instructions that come with the EGR delete kits never even mention replacing the intake gaskets, and tell you to just loosen the bolts, not remove them. I also like doing the large coolant o-ring that goes between the intake and the front cover, which is also never mentioned in the delete kit instructions.

Your right on the coolant getting into the intake side of the engine also. Another issue with blowing an EGR cooler is it will push all that coolant thru your turbo. I don't like the idea of dumping coolant thru something like a VGT turbo.

I'm not totally sure on the issue what causes a head gasket to blow. I'm not trying to start anything here but I don't think its so much a hydraulic lock issue as possibly being from getting it low on coolant and hot. The only reason I bring this up is I worked at an International dealership for years. The local school board had 20 buses with the VT365/6.0 in them. We were replacing EGR coolers on those things like crazy. If they got more then 20,000 miles on a cooler they were doing good. And some of them would come in hydraulicly locked, the coolers were blown so bad. If the coolers blow bad enough, once you shut the engine off coolant will flow down into the passenger side EXHAUST manifold and lock them up. Yet we never once had a head gasket issue with any of them.

Any hoo, I'm not 100% sure what exactly causes a head gasket issue, which is why I put "some people say" when I wrote that. That was just one of the theories I've came across. We can probably argue all day about it. But either way we can all agree that EGR coolers and the whole EGR systems are a pain in the butt, and deleting them will not only save you headache, but improve engine life overall.

Oh, and one other thing. If you do the delete kit make sure before you loosen all your intake bolts you take an air blower and blow around where the intake and the heads meet. They have a nasty habit of letting stuff get trapped there and as soon as you pull that intake up it will fall right into the intake ports of the head, without you ever seeing it. I've seen 2 engines destroyed from this. Both happened after EGR coolers were replaced. And both of them were from a small bolt dropping into the intake runners. International actually has a bulletin on this. Their seeing it happen most on the #8 hole.
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  #9  
Old 05-08-2011, 02:53 AM
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Save some money and remove the y pipe, knock out the scoop, weld in a slug where the pipe meets the cooler. Make sure the slug is down deep in the area or the joint will not mate up perfecly. good time to upgrade exhaust if you haven't already. The clamp and 2 lower bolts will take about 30 mins. The top 2 bolts will take a little longer. My dad had to lay across the top of the motor and we had a rig of u joints hooked to the socket while I turned from the bottom. those kits are overpriced for what you get. i done that and had no problems. It's all gone now after having studs put in.
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdogg85 View Post
Save some money and remove the y pipe, knock out the scoop, weld in a slug where the pipe meets the cooler. Make sure the slug is down deep in the area or the joint will not mate up perfecly. good time to upgrade exhaust if you haven't already. The clamp and 2 lower bolts will take about 30 mins. The top 2 bolts will take a little longer. My dad had to lay across the top of the motor and we had a rig of u joints hooked to the socket while I turned from the bottom. those kits are overpriced for what you get. i done that and had no problems. It's all gone now after having studs put in.
if the cooler leaks it will still go into the engine. So cheaper now, expensive later.
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