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| 6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you? |
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DIY Oil Cooler/Bypass filter
As I was parting together my Oil bypass system I had went to a swap meet and noticed an oil cooler with 3/8 barbed input and output, It was small and the perfect setup to add to my bypass as an additional cooling tool for the 6.0. I admittedly had about a 14 degree delta on my EOT and ECT, this is after a full flush with the Restore products and the addition of ELC. I do know that I have flow through my stock oil cooler because it cools when I am idle, but I didn't like the 14 degree delta and I was seeing an EOT of 205-212. So this post is a visual of how I added an external oil cooler at a low cost. All the parts were purchased off of Ebay with the exception of the cooler, I got that at the swap meet for $10. The whole set up with filter was a little over 200. I could of cut cost with using non braided line and standard brass fittings and tapping a stock oil filter cap. I wanted something a little more visually appealing. The mount is a simple piece of Aluminum angle Iron that I cut out and made myself in about 30 minutes, the return is plumed into the side of the oil fill stem I used an 1/8" NPT tap and it works great. I plumed the cooler in as the first item the oil goes through after leaving the oil filter cap, the output of the cooler goes into the bypass filter, from the filter the oil is returned back to the fill tube. The Filter base was on Ebay (factory rejects from blemishes, nothing some paint didn't fix). The Oil cap was the most expensive item besides the Amsoil filter, but it does work look nice. The Pictures should explain the rest. I have already seen about a 6 degree drop, not to bad for a $10 cooler and a small amount of extra line.
Last edited by 69GTO4FUN; 05-03-2011 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Wanted to add pluming. |
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There is a nice feeling of satisfaction when one builds functioning parts that work. It looks clean and Im lovin the black braided line.
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I would worry about still having a slightly plugged oil cooler in your motor restricting coolant flow to other parts.
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Coolant flow
I would be worried about the coolant flow also if I hadn't already deleted the EGR. I will be replacing the in block oil cooler, just don't have the time for it now.
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If you still had the EGR cooler in place then I would say this is a bad idea, and maybe it still is.
You would in effect be altering your EOT and altering the temp delta that is so important on these engines. If you had the EGR still in place, because your oil is cooler than normal, you wouldn't know that your factory cooler was plugged up and what little coolant is getting through it has a chance of flash boiling and or vaporizing in your EGR which would cause it to rupture. That would definitely be bad for anyone with the EGR still in there. What may still be bad is the fact that you are still altering that EOT reading and you may not know when your oil cooler plugs up completely and stops flow of coolant altogether. The more plugged it gets, the quicker it will deteriorate. If you're going to run with this setup very long you should keep an even closer eye on the ECT. I would think that you won't have much time once you see the ECT climbing before things go bad. |
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6.0 Coolant flow
The flow characteristics of the 6.0 are very unique in the fact that the oil cooler and EGR cooler have a separate supply and return on the front cover. If the oil cooler was to become plugged it prevents flow only to the EGR cooler, and this is what causes EGR cooler failure. If the Oil cooler would become plugged I would also see a drastic rise in EOT and the small cooler that I installed as part of the bypass set up would never be able to hide the temps that would result. I have a coolant bypass filter and have switched from the Ford gold to the Cat. ELC. I do not believe that I will have anymore coolant plugging issues in my factory oil cooler. I installed the small cooler to see if it would provide any relief, I think that 6.0 owners that are also mechanically inclined have a small gag reflex and jump at any slight difference. Most engines run an oil temp range of 190-230, oil breakdown doesn't happen on conventional oils until well beyond this range and synthetics are even higher. I do understand the desire to keep these levels low but with 10000 pounds behind us up hill and EGT's over 1000 degrees, to expect EOT's under 220 is near unrealistic. I have seen a drop in EOT's with this set up and that is welcomed.
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great thread....I have been thinking about doing this same mod to my truck. BPD is selling a bypass and cooler for $1900 and it basically does the same thing as your setup. Im going to pick up a cooler and do the same thing. How has your setup been working for you?
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Quote:
I see no real benefit to adding the extra oil cooler, if your delta is out then it's time to replace the oil cooler with the OEM or the expensive aftermarket remote set-up. If your stock oil cooler is working properly there is no need for the auxiliary add on. |
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For the return fitting on the oil fill tube. You can buy a $6 oil cap from o'reilly auto parts and tap into that. It is much thicket than the oem and it does not have the click mechanism so it is just a straight shot down. And it is better than taping into the thin fill tube.
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Post Replies
Putting the Return tube in the cap required swivels to ensure the ease of removing the cap, I placed it in the side so that it did not impede lid removal for oil fill and the side of the tube is not as thin as you may think. As far as no need for an auxillary cooler, maybe, my cooler seems to be partially plugged but still having flow. My Delta's were near the limit and the remote cooler brought them back to a very low level. It was a long shot and cheap in most regards, most of these items were from a swap meet.
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