turbo questions

[travisH3]

so im off school this whole week for spring break, so i figured its a good time to clean the turbo. im excited but nervous, i have been contemplating doing it on my own but i thought what the heck. im following some pdf instruction i found with our awesome search button. i have a few quick questions

-since im going to be disconnecting the oil lines, is there any priming or anything i have to do when i get it back together.

-does anyone know what gaskets im going to need and new o rings or gaskets for turbo oil lines, while im at it should i do the updated oil drain tube, is it very hard to do??

-Is there anything i need to take out in order to get the turbo out or is it just unbolt the turbo and what not and nothing will get into the way when taking it out?

-any other do's or dont's when taking it apart or things to make sure to do.

im no master mechanic but im thinking that i can handle this. im hoping to have it done by friday so that i can take it to go quading friday, going on a long trip to the dunes so im sure that willl test the quality of my work LOL

thanks guys i really appreciate it, i just want to hear any tips to make sure and build my confidence.

[06powerstroke06]

You should be fine with out priming the oil. I always take the alternator off, It makes it easier to get the turbo out. I also pull the degas bottle aside to make getting to the back bolts easyer.

[Ironmover]

I would buy the updated feed and return line. Mine came with new OE hardware and O-rings 3c3z-9t514-ad

To split the housing you first remove the v band clamp and move it aside. Don't try to force it off. Then place the turbo on a solid surface and I recommend a wooden surface. You'll need a cold chisel and continuely work around and around. I'll also switch off with a 3lbs dead blow beating directly against the snail in the direction I'm trying to seperate it. About te point you think it won't come apart, bink! it will and you persuade it a little more and it's apart.

When I've got it nearly off, I stand it up on the inducer and gently use a pry bar or continue tapping with a dead blow in an upwards direction so that when it comes off you don't spill the vanes. This gives you a chance to take pictures and not damage them.

The only place I apply anti-seize is the flange where the housings come together. MAKE SURE YOU ALIGN THE UNISON RING WITH THE ACTUATOR CAM BEFORE YOU FORCE IT TOGETHER. Take some patience "dropping" it in place watching for cam alignment. Ten you can tap her down and around until its solid and retorque your v band clamp.

I would drip some oil into the feed orfice and spin the shaft by hand but it's not entirely neccesary because the oil drains out anyways when theengine is shutdown.

You may find reoving the oil filter housing and stand pipe helpful primarily for turbo instal, that puppy will roll right into place without that in the way. Use oil on your o-rings and the toughest part is getting the turbo to drop onto the return tube. A pry bar will be your best friend for lightly adjusting the tube til the turbo falls down.

[travisH3]

thanks, i am prolly gonna start breaking into it tonight. in the ford instructions i found it said to loosen manifold to up pipe bolts but in a video i watched they didnt do it and they got the turbo out. im just worried about it leaking. i hate working on rusty exhaust stuff. for some reason i always get leaks

[NYC F-350]

You MIGHT want to consider a new marmon clamp for ther y-pipe and one for the down pipe. Might not need them, but you might. Make sure you make a mark where the two halves go together, and where the gap is for the clamp you take off. Put it back the way it was and there won't be any problems. One thing I did (in error) was to move that cam piece. If you do, you will have to do a relearn procedure for the VGT actuator.
Putting it back on- just be sure that the y-pipe to turbo connection is perfect. Ensure the pipe flange matches the turbo flange before seating the marmon clamp, tighten the marmon clamp while keeping an eye on that connection. Leaks are common if installed incorrectly. It might take a prybar to line up that connection "just so".