ELC flush problems - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-21-2011, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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ELC flush problems

Ok so i finally got around to getting my flush done. Pick up the restore/restore plus locally for about $40, the elc threw work for about $18 a gallon.

Back story first. this weekend started with plans of just getting my belt tensioner/serp belt and installing my new snowplow prep fan clutch. i figured why i have most of the truck apart at that time id start my flush by removing the thermostat.

Got to work, installed all my new parts, removed the thermostat. Poured in some water to make sure the truck ran and to help flush out some more of the gold sh*t. It ran. fan clutch seemed to be pulling more air then before but after a test drive all was fine.

Drained the water, and poured in the restore. topped off with some water. And off i went for my 1.5 hours cruise. 10 minutes in is where my list of concerns starts.

drove the truck, temperatures were not getting up there, been driving now for about 20-25 minutes. pull over check under the truck, nothing. pop the hood the degas bottle is overflowing of Bubble. slowly relieve the pressure and allow the bubbles to flow out. tighten the cap back up and off i went. again my temperatures were not getting up there. I was ranging from 100-128ect/105-130eot. i stopped again and again the bubbles were coming out of the degas bottle. I stopped 2 more times in my 2 hour drive. during that whole drive my temps stayed in that range.

Got home, drained the cooling system, all of it. Poured in some what, went for a spin around the block, still not temp change. drained again, same thing.

Im now on my 7 drain and fill after the initial restore was added. im still getting bubbles in the system and the fluid isnt getting any clearer, still a milky yellow. Temps still stay the same too.

Now i dont know if its because i installed the SnowPlow Prep fan clutch but it seems something isnt right here.

I really dont want to tear down the truck again to install my old noisy non-snowplow prep fan clutch at this point. i was hoping by now id at least see an increase in temperatures to make my thoughts of the fan clutch causing this but its just not making sense.

basic summary of concerns:
1. is the bubbles normal after restore
2. how long should i see them for
3. my eot/ect temperatures
4. my fan clutch being the possible route cause and faulty.
5. this is all normal im just overanalyzing this like i do all the time

Thank you in advanced for any and all help.
Jason

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post #2 of 14 Old 02-21-2011, 07:49 PM
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not trying to be a smart a&& here but if your thermostat is out then the truck wont ever warm up no matter how much you drive it around. itll warm up sitting there idling but not running due to the air flowing across and through the radiator. i had a similar issue. my thermostat was stuck open and it would only hit op temps when i idled for a while. as soon as i got moving the gauge would drop back to cold. also idk how true this is but i heard not to take the thermostat out because it will flow sufficient when it opens up at operating temp. hoping this helps and hoping i didnt waste my time typing this book in case im way off in left field. i left my T-stat in when i did my flush a few days ago.

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post #3 of 14 Old 02-21-2011, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roustabout04 View Post
not trying to be a smart a&& here but if your thermostat is out then the truck wont ever warm up no matter how much you drive it around. itll warm up sitting there idling but not running due to the air flowing across and through the radiator. i had a similar issue. my thermostat was stuck open and it would only hit op temps when i idled for a while. as soon as i got moving the gauge would drop back to cold. also idk how true this is but i heard not to take the thermostat out because it will flow sufficient when it opens up at operating temp. hoping this helps and hoping i didnt waste my time typing this book in case im way off in left field. i left my T-stat in when i did my flush a few days ago.

Trust me its not being a smart a$$.

That very well could be true and i just have been thinking way too deep into it (which is a normal thing for me ) and overlooking something so basic that i learned so long ago.

-Jason

--I shoot a Nikon D300. I carry a Smith & Wesson. I race a 1997 BMW E36. I wrench with Snap-On.
I Boost a 6.0Powerstroke --

--I donít Fail; I succeed at finding what doesnít work--

--Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you--

--If you can leave rubber from the apex to the braking zone, you have enough power--

--2004 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed FX4--1997 BMW 328is--
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-21-2011, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roustabout04 View Post
not trying to be a smart a&& here but if your thermostat is out then the truck wont ever warm up no matter how much you drive it around. itll warm up sitting there idling but not running due to the air flowing across and through the radiator. i had a similar issue. my thermostat was stuck open and it would only hit op temps when i idled for a while. as soon as i got moving the gauge would drop back to cold. also idk how true this is but i heard not to take the thermostat out because it will flow sufficient when it opens up at operating temp. hoping this helps and hoping i didnt waste my time typing this book in case im way off in left field. i left my T-stat in when i did my flush a few days ago.
I think you are on the right track. OP, put you t-stat back in....

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post #5 of 14 Old 02-21-2011, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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I think you are on the right track. OP, put you t-stat back in....
its snowing and freezing out. and my t-stat is in. lol only took me like 20 minutes. ill see how it acts on the way to work in the am.

-Jason

--I shoot a Nikon D300. I carry a Smith & Wesson. I race a 1997 BMW E36. I wrench with Snap-On.
I Boost a 6.0Powerstroke --

--I donít Fail; I succeed at finding what doesnít work--

--Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you--

--If you can leave rubber from the apex to the braking zone, you have enough power--

--2004 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed FX4--1997 BMW 328is--
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post #6 of 14 Old 02-21-2011, 09:45 PM
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I had lots of bubbles about 5-6 buckets worth. I say just keep flushing it. I pulled the bottom radiator hose and block drain each time to get the most out each time. You may be able to pull the pet **** valve and stuff a hose in the degas bottle then start the truck with water running and run it for a few minutes to get the bubbles out quicker. Then continue. I flushed out alot of sand in the first 5-6 buckets. I did 12 total the last 2 were distilled and were able to see the bottom of the bucket clearly. Good luck.

I am putting on my off the shelf put together coolant filter on this week.

2008 F350 CC SRW
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post #7 of 14 Old 02-22-2011, 12:54 PM
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Yes you will see a lot of suds from the Restore. Once you get it mostly out go ahead and run the restore Plus. It helps clearing out the rest of the Restore. It is normal for the truck not to come up to temp while the thermostat is out. It does save a lot of time when doing the repetitive flushes to clear the Restore and Restore Plus from the system though. Especially when you are doing 12-15 flushes.
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-22-2011, 02:47 PM
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I'm getting ready to do this myself for the first time, so I can't speak from experience. However I have read many posts on the subject. I would say almost all of them mention removing the t-stat. FWIW.

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post #9 of 14 Old 02-22-2011, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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well i put the t-stat back in. its kinda hard to do everything in one sitting for me. i planned on doing it all day this past sunday but the fanclutch install took longer then i planned.

Either way im on to the Restore Plus now. Going for a drive soon. and to buy more distilled water.

-Jason

--I shoot a Nikon D300. I carry a Smith & Wesson. I race a 1997 BMW E36. I wrench with Snap-On.
I Boost a 6.0Powerstroke --

--I donít Fail; I succeed at finding what doesnít work--

--Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you--

--If you can leave rubber from the apex to the braking zone, you have enough power--

--2004 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed FX4--1997 BMW 328is--
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post #10 of 14 Old 02-22-2011, 04:47 PM
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You can use regular tap water for everything except your last 3-4 flushes. That's when you want to switch to distilled water.
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