Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Here is a post from a member on another forum. This is what he did, and has reported no problems from this. Now, I have never done this, and am not recommending doing it this way, just passing along the info.
Installed ARP Studs Without Pulling Motor, Lifting Cab or Removing HVAC Box
I started by removing the batteries, entire air cleaner assembly, radiator, I/C and piping, fan and shroud. This gave me the room to stand in front of the motor to do the job. I also removed the alternator, wire harnesses, intake manifold, oil cooler/filter/fuel filter assembly, turbo and EGR cooler. I wanted to back flush the oil cooler to make sure it was not clogged (it was not), replace the internal oil cooler seals and replace the filter screen that is under the oil cooler. Also, since I have the early build (pre 9/22/03) I sent the EGR cooler off and had Neil Technologies upgrade it.
Man, when you get all of that crap off the motor there is not a whole lot left. So to get the motor positioned to remove the passenger side lower head bolts, I removed the 4 power steering pump assembly bolts and set it aside. Next, I removed the 4 bolts that hold the driver side engine and frame motor mounts together. I then jacked the motor using a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 on the driver side front oil pan lip. I then removed the engine motor mount bracket and then the frame motor mount bracket. Then I let the jack down until the exhaust manifold just touched the frame. I tried to remove the middle lower head bolt and it would only come out about 3/4 of the way. So I went under the X and removed the passenger side motor mount frame bolts (leave mount attached to motor). Then I got a second floor jack and piece of 2x4 and jacked the motor up using the lip right behind the starter where the motor and tranny attach. This rotated the motor enough to get all all of the lower last 3 head bolts out and the studs in. Reversed the process and now the motor is back in it's mounts and the studs are in. To get the motor positioned took me about 2.5 hours but would be a lot less if there is a next time. I did this in my driveway by myself and I'm 61 years old. Now I am awaiting gaskets and my upgraded EGR to complete assembly.
It took a little patience and thinking but the studs are in. I forgot how hard it was to pull 245 Lbs-Ft.
I know you are asking, why did I not change the HGs. Well, they were not bad and if they go bad I will now know how to replace them.
I installed the studs using the following procedure. I removed the OEM head bolts one at a time in the OEM torque sequence starting with #1. I installed the ARP stud and torqued to 150 Lbs-ft. After all studs were installed and torqued to 150 Lbs-Ft, I re-torqued bolts #1 to #10 using the OEM sequence to 200 Lbs-Ft. Then I repeated the sequence again to final torque of 245 Lbs-Ft. I then removed the 5 small head bolts, applied ARP lubricant and torqued to 18 Lbs-Ft then to final torque of 23 Lbs-Ft.
I will do a follow up post to let all who would like to know if this head bolt removal and ARP stud install works.