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6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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Old 02-19-2011, 01:49 PM
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Newby Question ....

I am getting ready to take on the adventure of doing the In-Cab head stud swap and have been reading every post I can find on it. Although it seems I have confused myself a bit . I have noticed in almost all posts everyone has replaced their head gaskets and had their head machined but I found one post where the heads where not removed. They simply replaced one stud at a time. Is this a viable way of doing the job or is in necessary to replace the gaskets? Also is it a necessity to machine the heads (only at 68k miles)?

Kind of seems dumb questions for me to be asking with all the work I have done on vehicles but I have never tore down an engine with out the intention of replacing everything anyway. I am just trying to keep it as simple as possible because I can't have my truck down to long do to work constraints. So if I can save a step or two and not cause a catastrophic failure it would be great.

Thanks in advance for any info y'all can pass on to this diesel newby.

Last edited by 05KingRanchF350; 02-19-2011 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:56 PM
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Interested in this procedure also. Mine is perfect with no leaks, but would do this if works............
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:26 AM
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Does anyone have any information concerning this?
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:35 AM
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Here is a post from a member on another forum. This is what he did, and has reported no problems from this. Now, I have never done this, and am not recommending doing it this way, just passing along the info.

Installed ARP Studs Without Pulling Motor, Lifting Cab or Removing HVAC Box
I started by removing the batteries, entire air cleaner assembly, radiator, I/C and piping, fan and shroud. This gave me the room to stand in front of the motor to do the job. I also removed the alternator, wire harnesses, intake manifold, oil cooler/filter/fuel filter assembly, turbo and EGR cooler. I wanted to back flush the oil cooler to make sure it was not clogged (it was not), replace the internal oil cooler seals and replace the filter screen that is under the oil cooler. Also, since I have the early build (pre 9/22/03) I sent the EGR cooler off and had Neil Technologies upgrade it.

Man, when you get all of that crap off the motor there is not a whole lot left. So to get the motor positioned to remove the passenger side lower head bolts, I removed the 4 power steering pump assembly bolts and set it aside. Next, I removed the 4 bolts that hold the driver side engine and frame motor mounts together. I then jacked the motor using a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 on the driver side front oil pan lip. I then removed the engine motor mount bracket and then the frame motor mount bracket. Then I let the jack down until the exhaust manifold just touched the frame. I tried to remove the middle lower head bolt and it would only come out about 3/4 of the way. So I went under the X and removed the passenger side motor mount frame bolts (leave mount attached to motor). Then I got a second floor jack and piece of 2x4 and jacked the motor up using the lip right behind the starter where the motor and tranny attach. This rotated the motor enough to get all all of the lower last 3 head bolts out and the studs in. Reversed the process and now the motor is back in it's mounts and the studs are in. To get the motor positioned took me about 2.5 hours but would be a lot less if there is a next time. I did this in my driveway by myself and I'm 61 years old. Now I am awaiting gaskets and my upgraded EGR to complete assembly.

It took a little patience and thinking but the studs are in. I forgot how hard it was to pull 245 Lbs-Ft.

I know you are asking, why did I not change the HGs. Well, they were not bad and if they go bad I will now know how to replace them.

I installed the studs using the following procedure. I removed the OEM head bolts one at a time in the OEM torque sequence starting with #1. I installed the ARP stud and torqued to 150 Lbs-ft. After all studs were installed and torqued to 150 Lbs-Ft, I re-torqued bolts #1 to #10 using the OEM sequence to 200 Lbs-Ft. Then I repeated the sequence again to final torque of 245 Lbs-Ft. I then removed the 5 small head bolts, applied ARP lubricant and torqued to 18 Lbs-Ft then to final torque of 23 Lbs-Ft.

I will do a follow up post to let all who would like to know if this head bolt removal and ARP stud install works.

DSMMH
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:43 AM
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He11, after all that all he needed to do was unbolt the tranny and the header panel to take the motor out. There is just no way I would do a bolt to stud swap 1 at a time. These heads are flaky enough and are know to be not truly square right out of the box as new. If you're going to do it do it right. Pull the heads and send them out and have them milled and have hardened valve seats installed. Also have them pressure tested. These heads are well known for cracking.
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:25 PM
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Thanks for the info! PGreen I totally understand what your saying and I have noticed that being the trend from most write-ups I have found. My only issue is having my truck down for that long. I would be looking at having to take at least 2 weeks of leave from my main job and be out about the same amount of time from my off duty side jobs and I am certain at this point in time they just aren't going to let that happen. However when the time does come that things slow down and I can take the time off I do intend to take care of that issue I just wanted to know if in the mean time I could just replace the studs and not have any issues till I can take the time off.
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