6.0L WITH HEADS OFF, AM I OVER LOOKING ANYTHING?

[LTRMC02]

I currently have the passenger side head off a 2005 F250 6.0L with 115K miles and will be putting the Black Onyx gasket kit with ARP studs in. So far everything looks good inside. I plan on changing the HPOP standpipes and STC fitting, dummy rail plugs, new oil cooler, EGR delete, upgraded fuel regulator spring and coolant filter kit. I'd like some feed back if I may be missing something that could help avoid a problem or if I'm doing anything that really isn't necessary. Just want to get the bugs out of the 6.0. Any advice is appreciated.

Valve seals, glow plugs, glow plug or injector cups any of these things worth changing if there doesn't seem to be a problem? Anythings that should be looked at closely that's normal occurrence? Just don't want to have to do this again any time soon LOL.

[jls48066]

banjo bolts

[smokersteve]

bypass oil filter, but you can do that after you have it all together. I did not want to buy the kit because of the $$$$ so I found the oil filter mount on ebay for $20 and the oil filter cap from NUC for $60 something.

When you put the oil cooler and the HP oil system in try and fill the parts with oil so that you do not have to crank for a long time and this will decrease ware.

[harley1rocker]

ahh,my forte'!!!!! yes replace as many "wear" parts as money allows,also when you put a bolt back,use shop air to blow the bolt hole out...do the same with pistons,cleanliness is key,make sure you have your block surface good and shiny,use tons of break or carb cleaner and plent shop air,on the injector hold downs,make sure you get all oil,water and debris out of the bolt holes,otherwise they wont torque right....are you useing arp lube??? replace all o-rings,there cheap its worth it,trust me.are you decking the heads??? i would highly recommend it,have them psi test em and get the valves re seated,and springs tested.just like dude said,get you some 6.4 banjee bolts,they flow better.pm me if ya need help,ill supply my number in the event you need over the phone assistance...i know you will when it comes to lineing the uppipes up with the turbo and manifolds...holler at me

[smokersteve]

ccv catch can. You can build this yourself easy.

Turbo drain tube.

Wrap your headers, up-pipe, y-pipe, down pipe.

[bondsman]

Might as well replace the glow plugs while you are there. 6.4 banjos are great. I just did the same job (cab off). On top of everything you mentioned, I also replaced the water pump, thermostat and belt.

[hack'n'bash]

Depending on mileage and hours, it may be worth changing the cam and lifters, depending on budget obviously. I have seen a lot of lifter failures on high hour engines. (the pin that holds the roller breaks, allowing the surrounding needle bearings to fall, get munched up and then blow through the high pressure oil system until either the i.p.r valve gets stuck or you dont build low oil pressure because the low pressure pump gets plugged with pieces.Then life really sucks.) Hopefully you plan on pulling the other head and doing studs also. While you have it apart, check the heater hose behind the ficm. (it likes to vibrate against it and rub a hole.) .Also make sure before you pull the oil cooler make sure the area around it is as clean as a baby's ***. There is an updated screen under it also, it has a steel screen instead of the fiber material of the original. Good luck

[smokersteve]

Oh yea, getting elitediesel billet stage 1 cam will be good

But there are many other things to do like bash wrote.

[smokersteve]

Originally Posted by hack'n'bash

Depending on mileage and hours, it may be worth changing the cam and lifters, depending on budget obviously. I have seen a lot of lifter failures on high hour engines. (the pin that holds the roller breaks, allowing the surrounding needle bearings to fall,

good to know

[LTRMC02]

Drivers side head is off now along with the fridge being a few Budwiesers less LOL. Thanks for the suggestions. Do cams make as much difference or more in a diesel as they do on gassers? I'm new to diesel truck engines but this beast isn't so bad to work on after getting all the plastic and hoses out of the way. I was mostly suprised at how easily the exhaust manifold bolts came out and that there is no gaskets on them? I think I have gaskets with my kit to go back on though. The heads popped loose easily as well with the five layer metal head gaskets, only after loosening the head bolts with a four foot jack handle for a cheater bar. The cylinders look good at 115K with the cross hatching still very visible in all cylinders.

I do appreciate all the info and help from you all on this site, I sure wouldn't have had the confidence or knowledge to tackle this job otherwise. So far I feel comfortable about reassembly, bagged and tagged all hardware and many pictures for reference, will post some later on. Hopefully get the heads checked Monday for straightness. I think I saw the tolerance was 0.003", anyone know?