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  #1  
Old 12-05-2010, 01:03 PM
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Tools for EGR Delete and Oil cooler

Is there any special tools I will need to do the job myself.
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:18 AM
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No. It can be done with "simple" hand tools. I would recommend flex head gear wrenches if you don't have any.
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Old 12-06-2010, 04:07 AM
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if you have a '05-07 and want to upgrade the stc fitting you will need an ipr socket.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:51 PM
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Yea gear wrenches would be very helpful. Most of all be patient, simple hand tools complete the job.

I've been in to mine three times (once for the EGR Delete is all) and I'll share a couple hints with you. The fan shroud piece comes off best if you have a radiator hose pick. Start to your left at the lowest point as you're looking at it and you'll notice the tabs are grouped in pairs with a half moon cut-out between each pair, you'll want to work left to right on each one while gently working the tool in each time as you maintain a grip pulling upward on the piece. When it comes to turbo removal and install, take the oil and fuel filter housing off along with the stand pipe, the thing will practically come out and fall back into place on its own. Also somewhat related to the turbo is it is not necassary to break the drivers side up pipe loose from the manifold, most trucks '04 and up have a nifty flex coupler on that side that moves very freely to align the y-pipe to the turbo. And to replace the altenator, a 24" or so long half inch drive ratchet will just barely engage the tensioner arm so no need for the special tool there which is not available thru most tool sources except the "tool trucks".

I don't know which kit you'll be using but Sinisters directions are fairly helpful but he leaves out a couple important steps that he took short cuts on that I wouldn't advise, I would pull the degas tank, too easy to remove first to get to the air intake and to free up the cowl harness so you don't break plastic chit like I did. Also the pressurized heater hose is easily removed from the block with one bolt and you'll be able to move your manifold around so much easier instead of bending the mounting tab for the heater line.

I've got tons of input for this procedure, so if your curious I'll be glad to help.

Good luck man
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:01 PM
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Ya I might been asking you a few questions think gonna try to do it this weekend. I wanted to take truck to get headstuds done but they won't put the egr delete on at same time. I don't want to take to them have them work on it then tear it back apart just to do that. Gaskets havn't blown yet so think if I do egr delete and oil cooler replacement i can save a few thousand miles out of it yet. You replace oil cooler by any chance.
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:02 PM
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how long did it take you to do this?
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:52 AM
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You've got a good strategy. Might as well take care of those so it's out of the way then take care of studs a little later.

Yes I just replaced my cooler on Thursday. I spent all day Wednesday flushing and that included a VC-9 flush and a Restore flush. Started thurs morning and worked well into the evening since I'm on vacation and that night I had the cooler back in the block and the intake manifold resting in place because I forgot to pick up an intake set from Ford. After running to town Friday I reassembled everything, topped everything off, primed the fuel a few times and installed my new exhaust by 4pm. I was test driving by 5pm.

The messiest part of the whole job is lifting out the cooler, I would lay a towel over the core support and mind any coolant passages you've opened up on the front of the block for removal just so you don't drip into them. Once you have it on a bench, You'll remove the EGR coolant passage caps from the cooler body, the oil manifold passage assembly then you can remove the 2 nuts from the topside that fasten the heat exchanger then flip it over and inside you'll find 2 last bolts. Have yourself two 4"x4" blocks or so handy cause you'll use them to support the outer body while you drive out the heat exchanger. This is so it has room to fall. It will be stubborn but shell pop out. Then it's time for clean up and from this point the entire reassembly goes really smooth and clean.

You can pm me if you want to give a call if you have any questions too once you start into it.

Last edited by Ironmover; 12-07-2010 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:16 AM
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I changed mine also. It took me about 8 hours total to change the oil cooler and weld the EGR closed.
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Old 12-07-2010, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diablos30 View Post
if you have a '05-07 and want to upgrade the stc fitting you will need an ipr socket.
what is this stc fitting you speak of ?? I will be doing mine as soon as all parts get here

and how well can you clean things up at the car wash ?? I also plan on using a air wand to blow things out before digging in ?
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Old 12-07-2010, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmorgan711 View Post
what is this stc fitting you speak of ?? I will be doing mine as soon as all parts get here

and how well can you clean things up at the car wash ?? I also plan on using a air wand to blow things out before digging in ?
The STC stands for snap to connect, it connects the hpop into the oiling system for the injectors. I probably don't have that exactly correct but many others on here know the procedure inside and out.

Yea I would pressure wash what you can, just make sure she's not all that warm of course when you do it. You want to target the side of the intake manifold, the oil cooler valley and your charge air tube connections. Then just as you said get in there with compressed air also.

And if possible spray the turbo & pedestal bolts the night before to make things go easier too, not trying to state the obvious, just bein helpful
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