how to save oil cooler?? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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how to save oil cooler??

how are y'all keeping your oil coolers from going out again??.. just a antifreeze filter??.. what about the type of antifreeze??


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CTS
straight.. 5" to a 7" tip
full egr delete.. FCDP
new oil cooler
upgraded fittings for hpop
head gaskets.. frm FCDP
arp studs.. frm FCDP
bully dog off..
sct w custom tunes
coolant flush.. now ec-1
AirDog II.. not so sure about it
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:24 AM
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go with the cooler filter and at then same time flush your system and add elc coolant....you can use the search function on here to read the write ups on the benefits and it will also tell you how to do it.....its really easy did mine last weekend
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bailman72 View Post
go with the cooler filter and at then same time flush your system and add elc coolant....you can use the search function on here to read the write ups on the benefits and it will also tell you how to do it.....its really easy did mine last weekend
yeah I've seen that some people use ecl but I couldn't evr find the details on it.. I'll jus surch a little harder.. thanks


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CTS
straight.. 5" to a 7" tip
full egr delete.. FCDP
new oil cooler
upgraded fittings for hpop
head gaskets.. frm FCDP
arp studs.. frm FCDP
bully dog off..
sct w custom tunes
coolant flush.. now ec-1
AirDog II.. not so sure about it
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:45 AM
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I have the dieselsite coolant filtration and use Amsoil ELC coolant. I wish I took pics of the first filter I pulled off for everyone. There was enough particles to fill a pepper shaker.

2001 7.3 SuperDuty Lariat

AFE Stage II Cold Air Intake
PHP Tunes , Autometer Gauges
Zoodad Mod,
4"SS MBRP Exhaust
ITP Overboost Annihilator
Roada Deco Positive Air Shutoff
NADP Heavy Hauler Transmission
6 liter Trans Cooler
Diesel Site Coolant Filtration System


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post #5 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dusted4eva View Post
I have the dieselsite coolant filtration and use Amsoil ELC coolant. I wish I took pics of the first filter I pulled off for everyone. There was enough particles to fill a pepper shaker.
yeah I have seen dieselsite filtration.. deff will get that.. where did u get that elc coolant ??


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CTS
straight.. 5" to a 7" tip
full egr delete.. FCDP
new oil cooler
upgraded fittings for hpop
head gaskets.. frm FCDP
arp studs.. frm FCDP
bully dog off..
sct w custom tunes
coolant flush.. now ec-1
AirDog II.. not so sure about it
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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this I wat I found.....

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Drain block from plug on drivers side of the block. Remove the thermostat. Replace plug in block and put lower hose back on. Put thermostat housing back on without thermostat. Fill with tap water. run for 5 minutes then drain as above. Put 2 qts of VC-9 and fill with tap water. Drive it for about 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush after. Put in 1 gallon of Restore an top with tap water. Drive it for an 60-90 minutes then drain. Flush 2 times with tap water or whatever it takes to come clear. Flush 3 more times with distilled water. Replace thermostat or put in a new one. Put hose back, make sure block plug is tight. Add 3.5 gallons of ELC concentrate and top off with distilled water. Make sure to run engine for 5 minutes between flushes to circulate the water good. Have heater on set to hi while doing this to flush the heater core too.

is it really safe driving it around with out thermostat?


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CTS
straight.. 5" to a 7" tip
full egr delete.. FCDP
new oil cooler
upgraded fittings for hpop
head gaskets.. frm FCDP
arp studs.. frm FCDP
bully dog off..
sct w custom tunes
coolant flush.. now ec-1
AirDog II.. not so sure about it
tanFx4 is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanFx4 View Post
this I wat I found.....

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Drain block from plug on drivers side of the block. Remove the thermostat. Replace plug in block and put lower hose back on. Put thermostat housing back on without thermostat. Fill with tap water. run for 5 minutes then drain as above. Put 2 qts of VC-9 and fill with tap water. Drive it for about 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush after. Put in 1 gallon of Restore an top with tap water. Drive it for an 60-90 minutes then drain. Flush 2 times with tap water or whatever it takes to come clear. Flush 3 more times with distilled water. Replace thermostat or put in a new one. Put hose back, make sure block plug is tight. Add 3.5 gallons of ELC concentrate and top off with distilled water. Make sure to run engine for 5 minutes between flushes to circulate the water good. Have heater on set to hi while doing this to flush the heater core too.

is it really safe driving it around with out thermostat?
Since you are quoting me I will answer this for you. You do NOT want to go without a thermostat for normal operation of your truck. This is strictly a time saving convenience when flushing as many times as you need to when cleaning out the cooling system and changing over to elc. For the flush to work it has to circulate the water for about 5 minutes on each flush cycle. Without the thermostat it starts circulating as soon as you start the engine. If you leave the thermostat in you have to start the engine, wait for it to come up to temp and open the thermostat to begin circulating the water. Considering that we are talking about 12-15 flushes that becomes significant. Time to pull thermostat = 10 minutes. Extra time to let the engine heat up before circulation begins = 10 minutes x 12 to 15 cycles = roughly 2 to 2.5 extra hours to do the job if you leave the thermostat in. Both ways will work. I recommend pulling the thermostat for the flushes and installing a new one when you are done. They only cost about $20 and it is good preventive maintenance. Hope this clears it up.

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post #8 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 01:03 PM
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put a cleaner in the cooling system after you have removed the coolant and have replaced it with distilled H2O, fill up with ELC, put a coolant filter on the engine.

13Q Trans Fluid Flush
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-28-2010, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanFx4 View Post
yeah I have seen dieselsite filtration.. deff will get that.. where did u get that elc coolant ??
I ordered it from the Amsoil website maintenance tab.

2001 7.3 SuperDuty Lariat

AFE Stage II Cold Air Intake
PHP Tunes , Autometer Gauges
Zoodad Mod,
4"SS MBRP Exhaust
ITP Overboost Annihilator
Roada Deco Positive Air Shutoff
NADP Heavy Hauler Transmission
6 liter Trans Cooler
Diesel Site Coolant Filtration System


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post #10 of 11 Old 11-29-2010, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGreenSVT View Post
Since you are quoting me I will answer this for you. You do NOT want to go without a thermostat for normal operation of your truck. This is strictly a time saving convenience when flushing as many times as you need to when cleaning out the cooling system and changing over to elc. For the flush to work it has to circulate the water for about 5 minutes on each flush cycle. Without the thermostat it starts circulating as soon as you start the engine. If you leave the thermostat in you have to start the engine, wait for it to come up to temp and open the thermostat to begin circulating the water. Considering that we are talking about 12-15 flushes that becomes significant. Time to pull thermostat = 10 minutes. Extra time to let the engine heat up before circulation begins = 10 minutes x 12 to 15 cycles = roughly 2 to 2.5 extra hours to do the job if you leave the thermostat in. Both ways will work. I recommend pulling the thermostat for the flushes and installing a new one when you are done. They only cost about $20 and it is good preventive maintenance. Hope this clears it up.

This has got to be one of the greatest idea's I've ever heard. Can't believe I didn't think about this when I did mine.

You, good sir, are a genius.
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